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yeah that was expected. It’s an attack point for Ford, naturally angry forum members would exploit it when they can. It doesn’t mean anything though since that account doesn’t buy or sell anything on here. They don’t get rated on customer satisfaction on this forum.
Mine look exactly the same... so do we both need springs, or are they fine?
They are like that tire, fine... enuf. I Would Want to break them down, add new plastic wear, mayyyybe those slider clamps too, smooth, grease with heavy duty "long-fiber" grease, optionally painting the top and bottom outters with black epoxy, maybe the sides too. Just not between with the grease. Rust is v abrasive, and these are a lil ugly.
EDIT: I look at these both as functional, but to look nice like a pumpkin cover. They sorta show, like a pair of suspenders. Greasing these is going the extra mile. It's rare to see and I am always impressed to see it. Some spots rarely make contact. Here, grease can hold sand. Paint is better.
I need a 5" palm random orbital sander I think, for my 150 cab roof. I shop Home Depot, Amazon, and I'd be willing to try Harbor Freight if a unit there was suggested. I can afford decent but for 1 job I don't need better, unless that is 1) important & 2) maybe just a difference between. $30 & $50.
Must be 120 Vac. Winner might have a round filter exhaust for me to tape a shop vac to... Maybe just a little Bucket Head. Hey - I have a muffler for my 12G Rigid. Is there one for a bucket head? Lol !
Suggestions appreciated. I WOULD do it by hand, but this chemo kills that energy level. Maybe I'll adjust - no idea. I have to get paint slapped on it. Target is a month and allow 1 for slippage. Still a few rains here.
$35 & 300W versus $249 & 720W will be at odds. I like my many DeWalts, but I cannot justify 249$. Also, not random orbital, however appropriate to a (initially,) rusty task. Overkill for me, but otherwise v nice. The orbital should follow this rotary, but I'll have to skip a rotary and do it all slowly w an orbital.
And you point out why I am some feared of a $35 random. I was hoping that the best of the cheapest on the $50-55 end of the $30 toy spectrum would do one WHOLE hood, lol and a roof.
Looks like I'm gonna get some Super Duty action in. Going to do ball joints on my Buddy's Excursion for him. Maybe tie rods too. I'm gonna go grab it tomorrow and have a look.
I decided to polish my 97 Lexus. It's gray on black. I was stunned to see that while the gray trim is base/clear, the main black is single stage. I haven't polished a single stage paintjob in probably 25 years.
Good paint, though. If I had done some wet sanding to fix the dropping etches and minor scratches, I would have a show car on my hands. WOW, what a shine!
I'm only through four of five stages... I'll post a pic when I'm done.
Did they change back to dyno tests? When I was still in SL County, I swear that Jiffy Lube just plugged into my OBD-II - except my Mustang of course.
Tooele County has no emissions, and no inspection. We just pay taxes and get a sticker.
Well... I'm hoping for "fine", lol. I'm not well versed on leaf springs, so maybe I am overthinking it.
Yes, Dyno testing for Salt Lake County still
All other counties (in Utah) you just plug in to OBD2 port for 96 and newer and static test for tailpipe emissions for prior years
If the EPA says your air is okay by their monitoring standards, your county needs no I/M program
Last I heard Box Elder and Rich Counties have no I/M either up here
There is most likely a few counties down south that need no I/M papers for registration.