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I've decided I'll put in the new idler arm ,and fix the pitman arm with the universal repair tool.
The alignment shop can R&R the arm it when I take it back in. They do them all the time.
Besides, I don't really want to risk damage to the steering box/shaft while trying to split the thing, and my back/neck/shoulder are complaining about yesterday's efforts.
Before I load this up, I'm going to change out the drawer liners it came with.
I always liked the green felt..You can WD-40 it a lil ahead of time. A lil w tools in place for things prone to rust. It can shrink, but a hassle if you prewash it prior to cutting to size. Cut to run up the tray sides, initially, removing no overlap in corners. And I like the green. It's cherry, (edit - cherry,) and as old as "mechanics' grey," / platinum-grey, for paint.
Last edited by BillSF9c; Dec 29, 2023 at 03:38 PM.
I like them a lot. They're quiet compared to the BFG's, and grip the snow even better (which I thought wouldn't be possible with an A/T tire). Wet performance is good, too. Winner in my book.
I'm really liking the look and reviews for their rugged terrain design. I'm not sure the at3w is quite enough void to get through some of the stuff I have to mess with but that does ease my mind on the brand.
Am I the only one who get EGR no flow faults, and has to (every couple years) clean out the tiny ports in the elbow under the throttle body that has all the vacuum ports and the EGR valve bolts to?
That fault (and when something ate through a couple tank sensor wires) is the only fault I get.
This time I drilled out the ports much larger. They were ~1/4" and are now 9/16".
Noobs: My '99 used to throw a code for "insufficient EGR flow." Cleaning would make it go away for several thousand miles (the miles seemed to vary wildly), but it would always return eventually.
Last edited by OhioLariat; Dec 29, 2023 at 07:56 PM.
I jumped the gun and ordered spider gears, had the pinion seal and fluid already.
Took the carrier out to find smoked bearings.
Looks like on race was spinning.
↨This is the better one.
↨ Not as good. lol
Got a line on a used 10 bolt with a 4:11 posi shipped for $455
I can return the spider gear set and get my $100 back there.
I was thinking of doing a junkyard swap since some came with disc brakes.
But I can buy the kit with all new parts for around $500.
So, maybe in the future, right now I have brand new wheel cylinders and two sets of drums and maybe brakes too.
Am I the only one who get EGR no flow faults, and has to (every couple years) clean out the tiny ports in the elbow under the throttle body that has all the vacuum ports and the EGR valve bolts to?
That fault (and when something ate through a couple tank sensor wires) is the only fault I get.
This time I drilled out the ports much larger. They were ~1/4" and are now 9/16".
LOL, you MUST have a 4.6L ..the 4sixes own that one.
You can install a 5four TB, elbow, EGR valve. The EGR pipe would have to be custom. The 4two's and 5fours don't suffer EGR issues. The 5four set ups are much larger without those tiny ports. Drilling might help,...but is that possible? That I don't know...you may require a flex extension with a aluminum barb to get through it.
Also, I'm not sure which model year your 4six is, if it's a 97-2000, the air intake is restricted, too small of an opening at the fender. That adds to the problem. Ford didn't open that up enough (like the 5fours) until 01.
But I can buy the kit with all new parts for around $500.
Think I did my rear 3 yrs ago. Outer bearings ~$50 & Inners simar from NAPA. (Maybe jobber prices?.They used to do that for me.) Then yoke bearings. Seals. Crush washer came in a ~$100 kit w paint from, RockAuto(?) Cleaning the metal paste from the rolled axle tube was the PITA^3!!! And $130 for one axle. A cpl bucks for nuts, by and washers for the homebrew bell spring compressor for LS. And I always add a drain to the the pumpkin cover... For easy oil inspection, or 90% changes on a whim, say, temperature related? And the Ford Friction Modifier to soak the slightly cleaned discs in and add to the diff oil. Don't think I came too near $500 even w the axle. Maybe I did...
