if your gear oil is turning silver, you have much bigger problems

 

Good morning Thinkers. Felt like I needed a boat to get to work today.... it's really pouring rain here!

Can't tell if it's the weather, or if I'm getting sick. Burning the candle at both ends doesn't come as easy as it used to, unfortunately. Last night I took all of my wires and got them in wire loom. Just trying to clean it up a bit.

Before:


And After:

 

Man... I remember years ago when this guy was just starting out. Used to chime in a bit on TRS, and sell a little here and there. He's blown up now!

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/

 

QUOTE=GRF150;7199892]You soaked the discs of the rear diff ?
Meaning you squirted the friction modifier on the rear axle components first, then the diff oil was added ?

Who knows maybe a 2nd bottle should be added to see if it keeps my gear oil from turning silverfish....
Less friction in there with more friction modifier.[/QUOTE]

 

No. Discs are separated after removal, then put into a container for at least(!) 15 minutes with the friction modifier during a rear end rebuild. Maybe the 15-30 min was not enough and PART of why I needed half of a 2nd bottle.

Or maybe it was because I had cleaned them off Very Well, since I had to clean All of the metal particulate out of Every nook and cranny and surface. I might have used gas or acetone on the discs.

Get the idea a little better, now? Look for UTubes if you have s LS - Limited Slip (Ford's name for it,) differential.

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I think you need to hear, better, the polite yet blunt remarks in a brighter light. Remember you found the gear oil very low? Well, you have something in your differential or axle, or maybe even both, now, that has been damaged. You or a shop need to put it on two BEEFY, jackstands, (meaning, not lightweight cheap ones for a small car, and NOT ever on Cinder blocks,) and rebuild the entire back end. With luck, axles ($125.ea?) and gears will be ok. New bearings (5?) and seals (3?) and a crush washer. You are in the low hundreds. Driving more might ruin what is now, still ok.

Sometimes a damaged axle can be salvaged by use of a special bearing. I opted for a new axle. YMMV. But that is getting ahead of things. Look for a metal tag under a differential cover bolt. Clean and take several photos from different angles and decode it. LS is or is not there. (EDIT; L, NOT LS, IS CORRECT.) You have to recognize that the silvery oil is not caused by anything remotely acceptable. Catch it before more damage is done. I took 2 weeks a cpl hrs a day. Cleaning an axle tube is harder on a 150... meaning, tedious-timewise as heck. Where I was I could not use a pressure washer. Consider a shop. Discussing friction modifiers is simple avoidance of what you have to face. Get to UTube once you know, LS or not. 🤐

 

Ah yes the axle saver bearing/seal combo. but i do agree, silver gear oil=trashed rear diff, i have seen it more than once at work

 

Just a clarification: the tag on the diff will only have an L for limited slip - not LS.

https://www.fordification.com/tech/rearends_ford15.htm

 

Cool & thks. I did mine 2 yrs ago. It's the only one I ever did. I studied up, learned, did, and have forgotten some details. It was a new challenge... not so very hard, except for the crush washer... And the tedium of scrubbing silver metal paste, every spec, from the weld flash inside the top of the axle tube, with a modified SS BBQ brush. It was 2 ft long (w handle,) and a triangular hear, from Home Depot. I cut the triangle an bent it into a U... then extended it w 1+" white pvc. Just like cleaning a big gun with a drill sergeant looking over your shoulder. Get every spec. Blue towels test. Once ⁹% clear, add a towel or 2, Push from outside to the differential. Remove the blue towels, repeat.

Other methods, guys?