Topic Sponsor
1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

Engine Builders talk.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 23, 2014 | 01:07 PM
  #211  
jprevat's Avatar
Resident Forester
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 13,940
Likes: 1,531
From: South Carolina
Default

Originally Posted by ibd2328
No need for a lightning crank.. Your factory forged is the same.

Don't see any reason for porting heads if you are going N/A and not looking for huge numbers.

I would go with a very slight dished piston -10 or -7 Compression would be great for a NA enginge with a good set of cams.
Is the -7 or -10 referring to the cc? I like the direction jferg is going.
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2014 | 01:13 PM
  #212  
MyFX4Project's Avatar
4v > 2v
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,975
Likes: 98
From: Kansas
Default

Originally Posted by ibd2328

You have stock cams?
Stock exhaust. 98 cobra intake. So yeah.
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2014 | 04:39 PM
  #213  
jferg92's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 10,731
Likes: 172
Default

Originally Posted by jprevat

Is the -7 or -10 referring to the cc? I like the direction jferg is going.
Yes. The dish of the piston. I don't want to go extreme. Probably a 10:1 compression. I'd like to make power staying naturally aspirated but want to have the potential to boost it in a year or two
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2014 | 04:51 PM
  #214  
fordmotorsport's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,733
Likes: 56
Default

Originally Posted by jferg92
Yes. The dish of the piston. I don't want to go extreme. Probably a 10:1 compression. I'd like to make power staying naturally aspirated but want to have the potential to boost it in a year or two
You might want to stay around 9 or 9.5:1 with a built bottom. I mean if you plan to boost
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2014 | 05:05 PM
  #215  
ibd2328's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 8,374
Likes: 533
Default

Yea, I would agree if you don't go with dyno tunning
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2014 | 05:08 PM
  #216  
ibd2328's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 8,374
Likes: 533
Default

Welding should be cake now.

Engine Builders talk.-image-3030686736.jpg



Engine Builders talk.-image-3572930060.jpg
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2014 | 05:12 PM
  #217  
ibd2328's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 8,374
Likes: 533
Default

Haha just takes a fork lift to move it.
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2014 | 05:20 PM
  #218  
charliedyal's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,926
Likes: 144
From: Tallahassee, Fl
Default

Take some of your spare parts and fab an axle. Rolling is sooo much easier.
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2014 | 05:25 PM
  #219  
MyFX4Project's Avatar
4v > 2v
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,975
Likes: 98
From: Kansas
Default

Still didnt get an answer to my question... come on guys...
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2014 | 05:31 PM
  #220  
ibd2328's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 8,374
Likes: 533
Default

Originally Posted by MyFX4Project
Most people sleep at night. I was at work lol And back to the convos.. I have a question. I will be installing my cams and cam towers myself along with secondary and primary chains and tensioners. Do I need to use a degree tool to line them all up correctly or can I just use the teeth on the gears and line up all the timing marks. I dont need to advance or retard them at all just need them to work like stock lol
It's def safer with a degree tool. But doable without it. Since you aren't advancing or retarding it, just line the dots up. Hopefully the cobra cams are the cog.
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:19 PM.