Preparing to do Timing
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5 Year Member
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
You might consider the Trans fluid change (flush) trick I employed recently on mine as I had read about on a forum. 1). Disconnected 'supply' line to my Oil Cooler & slipped a rubber hose over it - crammed it into a 1 gallon clear jug. 2) Cranked her up in Neutral - idled until jug was full. 3) cut engine off, dropped pan (easy / not messy because empty of fluid) and replaced filter and cleaned up pan & gasket. 4). Poured four quarts of Mercon V in, emptied the JUG, and cranked engine in neutral again until JUG full. 5). Repeated step 4 until fluid comming into jug looked just like what I was pouring in. 6). Reconnected cooler supply line and topped off with 4 more quarts. -- Actually wound up with slightly overfull (1/3 quart). I had bought 15 quarts and USED 14, but spilled some as usual with any fluid change work.
Though was done only preventatively, Tranny shifts beautifully 1000 miles later, seems to have smoother RPM drop during shifts. Smooth as hell for 250k original tran.
Though was done only preventatively, Tranny shifts beautifully 1000 miles later, seems to have smoother RPM drop during shifts. Smooth as hell for 250k original tran.
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Thread Starter
5 Year Member
Joined: Apr 2019
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
While we're spending your money, do you have a lower-range torque wrench for the caps? The 50 ft lb is a little too big for that. They're 10 NM/~89 in lbs/~7.5 ft lbs. Better not count on values when working in the lower ~20% range of the wrench. That's where most of your error will be. It's probably given as +/-10% but kind of pushing it with that. Various other fasteners in that same torque range but not any others that I can think of that are all that critical.
Most all of the pullers, fan clutch wrench, etc., I rented for free at a local auto chain but you may not have that option.
Most all of the pullers, fan clutch wrench, etc., I rented for free at a local auto chain but you may not have that option.
My Tekton 1/2" torque wrench can do 10ft-lbs to 150ft-lbs
My Tekton 3/4" torque wrench can do 50ft-lbs to 300ft-lbs
It is a bit of a concern, but I am honestly going to have wait, and do the roller followers and lash adjusters later, probably like around March next year.
Last edited by ShirBlackspots; Oct 1, 2019 at 10:20 PM.
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
Bought me a Sony Handicam so I could record myself doing this job. (A few guys think I'm not capable of working on my engine and doing it correctly, simply because the first time I did an oil change with a Fumoto drain valve, I forgot to close it and four quarts drained on the ground)
Also, what's with this belief that some have that doing a fluid change on a transmission is a bad thing? (Maybe it's just an old Chevy thing?)
Also, what's with this belief that some have that doing a fluid change on a transmission is a bad thing? (Maybe it's just an old Chevy thing?)
Thread Starter
5 Year Member
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
Ok, got my roller followers and lash adjusters in. I didn't realize how tiny the oil control passage for spraying oil on the roller follower bearing was.
The roller followers were all manufactured on July 22, 2015 or 2019. Bag looks like 2015, box shows 2019
The roller followers were all manufactured on July 22, 2015 or 2019. Bag looks like 2015, box shows 2019
Last edited by ShirBlackspots; Oct 10, 2019 at 08:30 PM.
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It is tiny, tiny in the new ones. Like needle-point sized. The older version was much larger. Intended to force oil out onto the roller vs dribbling out of a larger hole I suppose. Seems like there might have been some happy median between the two. Looks like they could get something in there and get blocked up fairly easily.
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
The small hole probably helps with oil pressure to the VCT on the right side. I'd imagine that it would be difficult to clog that hole up as long you keep up with oil changes and keep the engine clean.
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From: upstate NY
You'll noticed the orifice is also angled differently to better lubricate the roller end. Mike is spot on with why, and also that the small hole will easily clog with the slightest varnish build up.
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
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From: fl
You are sure tackling a lot during engine repair . I would concentrate on inside of engine . Good to hear you got lashs and rollers , thats a must do usually . I would have dropped water pump /alt / pulleys etc if I had to chose .Transmission is a seperate item too . Good luck to you after that darn ps pump . Yes that cardboard timing cover is the way to go . Stick everything right on it and use duct tape to hold on rear . Put your sequence and torques right on there . Layout all cams and journals as they come out mark them as they must go back exactly .