Preparing to do Timing
In two weeks, I plan on doing the timing on my truck. To make me feel better about reconnecting everything, I'm going to label everything. If I missed something, just let me know:
MAF Sensor
Throttle position sensor
Throttle
Injectors 1-4 Left side
Injectors 1-4 Right side
Coils 1-4 Left side
Coils 1-4 Right side
Fuel Pressure Sensor
VCT Left and Right
Cam Position Sensor Left and Right
Crank Position Sensor
Oil Pressure switch
Left and right filter capacitor (this just gets its screw loosened from the timing cover)
Coolant temperature sensor (might not need to disconnect this)
Freon low pressure sensor
Freon high pressure sensor
Steering pressure sensor
Vapor purge valve
Master cylinder
(this is 33 items)
MAF Sensor
Throttle position sensor
Throttle
Injectors 1-4 Left side
Injectors 1-4 Right side
Coils 1-4 Left side
Coils 1-4 Right side
Fuel Pressure Sensor
VCT Left and Right
Cam Position Sensor Left and Right
Crank Position Sensor
Oil Pressure switch
Left and right filter capacitor (this just gets its screw loosened from the timing cover)
Coolant temperature sensor (might not need to disconnect this)
Freon low pressure sensor
Freon high pressure sensor
Steering pressure sensor
Vapor purge valve
Master cylinder
(this is 33 items)
Last edited by ShirBlackspots; Sep 29, 2019 at 09:10 PM.
Well, I was planning on putting the labels on as I disconnected them (because some things you can't get to without removing something else first). But I wrote down on each label what I could remember off the top of my head.
BTW, what tool do I need to disconnect the fuel rail from the fuel hose?
BTW, what tool do I need to disconnect the fuel rail from the fuel hose?
I was concerned about that too going into the first one that I did but you really don't need to. That's easier than it looks. You'd have to kind of try to mix things up. Take a bunch of pictures and you should be good. You can number the coil and injector connections with a permanent marker but again just the way that things will lay out it's pretty clear what goes where. The two main connectors on the computer to the left as you face it I think might be able to be switched. Never tried it but I did mark those just to be sure. Again just the way that the cables tend come back together it's pretty clear where they were. The third connector is different and can't be confused.
More of a challenge to keep track of is fasteners. Just put them back where they came from temporarily wherever you can. Sort things together, keep in/with whatever part that came off, etc. Also need to keep track of order of cam caps obviously and rockers if you're not going to replace.
More of a challenge to keep track of is fasteners. Just put them back where they came from temporarily wherever you can. Sort things together, keep in/with whatever part that came off, etc. Also need to keep track of order of cam caps obviously and rockers if you're not going to replace.
Place masking tape on each side of the connector with the same letter (“A-A”) for each connector like I said and you wont need to make a premade list. A lot on your list doesn’t even need to be touched... like the fuel rails.
I only asked because I bought the six hole Ford Racing fuel injectors (stock is two hole for 2005 and 2006). Though, I'm a bit worried the ECU might not like them on stock tune, depending on how much it has to trim the fuel.
Last edited by ShirBlackspots; Sep 29, 2019 at 11:09 PM.
I'm usually the guy who says do it all while you're there but I wouldn't mess with that until you get the rest done and you know that it's right. Enough potential things to troubleshoot if you get it back together and happen to have some issue. You can do that easy top-side later. Nothing that's going to be much easier while you have it apart.
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@Mike A. Yeah, I think that's a good idea. Do the timing first, make sure everything runs correctly, then install the injectors. Other plans include installing new radiator hoses, a cooling flush and fill, new pulleys and tensioner, new belt, new water pump and clutch, and install new transmission pan with drain and fresh fluid to replace what came out with the pan. (and do a drain and fill at regular intervals). Also going to install the updated throttle position sensor, and clean the throttle body.
Pull the oil pan too while you're doing the timing. Needs to be done and that will make getting the oil pump pickup back on easier. You can do it without dropping the pan but getting that one bolt back in can be a pain. Real easy with it out of the way.
I'd probably hold on the throttle body work too. Just another thing in the equation and again you can get to that easy enough and not much easier as a result of what you have to pull off for the timing. Maybe do that and the injectors at the same time. Just trying to save you from complications on the back end. I can tell you first hand that you'll die a little inside when you turn the key for the first time after getting it back together and it's running like crap and throwing 8 different codes. lol Fortunately all of mine have been easily resolved but you see guys on here all the time where they aren't so easy.
Good time to do the hoses and water pump since that will need to be drained down and you'll have stuff out of the way. Might also consider doing the oil filter adapter gasket while you're in there and have it drained anyway and stuff out of the way.
I'd probably hold on the throttle body work too. Just another thing in the equation and again you can get to that easy enough and not much easier as a result of what you have to pull off for the timing. Maybe do that and the injectors at the same time. Just trying to save you from complications on the back end. I can tell you first hand that you'll die a little inside when you turn the key for the first time after getting it back together and it's running like crap and throwing 8 different codes. lol Fortunately all of mine have been easily resolved but you see guys on here all the time where they aren't so easy.
Good time to do the hoses and water pump since that will need to be drained down and you'll have stuff out of the way. Might also consider doing the oil filter adapter gasket while you're in there and have it drained anyway and stuff out of the way.
Ok, yeah. So, the following:
1st stage:
Timing + M340HV oil pump
water pump + fan clutch
new pulleys, tensioner and belt
new hoses and fresh coolant (I did the dumb thing and bought 50/50 Motorcraft Gold, instead of concentrate)
new oil filter adapter gasket (need to purchase)
new oil pan gasket (need to purchase)
Start engine and drive to make sure things work correctly
2nd stage:
Transmission pan + fluid replacement
3rd stage
new updated TPS + clean throttle body, make sure I don't get a CEL from this.
4th stage
Install new injectors, make sure I don't get a CEL from this.
Sometime in the future, I might replace the roller followers and lash adjusters. Currently, when I first start up the engine when its cold soaked, its really nice and quiet. Once its warmed up, you can hear the cam phaser knock.
1st stage:
Timing + M340HV oil pump
water pump + fan clutch
new pulleys, tensioner and belt
new hoses and fresh coolant (I did the dumb thing and bought 50/50 Motorcraft Gold, instead of concentrate)
new oil filter adapter gasket (need to purchase)
new oil pan gasket (need to purchase)
Start engine and drive to make sure things work correctly
2nd stage:
Transmission pan + fluid replacement
3rd stage
new updated TPS + clean throttle body, make sure I don't get a CEL from this.
4th stage
Install new injectors, make sure I don't get a CEL from this.
Sometime in the future, I might replace the roller followers and lash adjusters. Currently, when I first start up the engine when its cold soaked, its really nice and quiet. Once its warmed up, you can hear the cam phaser knock.



