Preparing to do Timing
Thread Starter
5 Year Member
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,789
Likes: 288
From: Wichita Falls, TX
A little bit of patience, Liquid Wrench, and lightly banging on the pump and pulley with a 5lb sledge after loosening the bolts would have gotten it right off without having to resort to brute force and ruining your engine block.
Member
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 296
From: upstate NY
No, again, false. When the bolt heads are rounded from rust, cutting the old bastard off is the quickest and easiest way to do it. I pulled mine with the front cover, and then cut it off. The engine block is untouched.
Thread Starter
5 Year Member
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,789
Likes: 288
From: Wichita Falls, TX
1 month/1000 mile update:
Truck runs perfectly, except for the very slight, but noticeable rough idle, and it'll idle all day long if you let it, at the standard 650-700rpm idle. But then again, it was doing that before I did the timing job so a slight rough idle is most likely normal for these trucks. I have an approximately 10% reduction in fuel economy, most likely from the increased oil flow and pressure in the system. I do need to clean the throttle body and install the new TPS one of these days.
Something else I noticed is a ticking sound you can hear from behind and from the sides of the truck, but not from the engine bay and disappears once the truck has warmed up. I assume this is probably an exhaust leak, because I noticed water condensate dripping from the drivers side exhaust clamp where it turns right towards the Y pipe when I replaced the fuel filter before doing the timing (after shutting the truck off, of course).
In general, I like how much quieter my truck is after doing the timing job.
Truck runs perfectly, except for the very slight, but noticeable rough idle, and it'll idle all day long if you let it, at the standard 650-700rpm idle. But then again, it was doing that before I did the timing job so a slight rough idle is most likely normal for these trucks. I have an approximately 10% reduction in fuel economy, most likely from the increased oil flow and pressure in the system. I do need to clean the throttle body and install the new TPS one of these days.
Something else I noticed is a ticking sound you can hear from behind and from the sides of the truck, but not from the engine bay and disappears once the truck has warmed up. I assume this is probably an exhaust leak, because I noticed water condensate dripping from the drivers side exhaust clamp where it turns right towards the Y pipe when I replaced the fuel filter before doing the timing (after shutting the truck off, of course).
In general, I like how much quieter my truck is after doing the timing job.
Last edited by ShirBlackspots; Nov 19, 2019 at 07:46 PM.
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 75
Likes: 22
From: St Louis, MO
Please do yourself a favor. Before you start the job, please ensure your cylinder number one is at the top of the compression stroke. It is imperative the engine be at TDC when doing this job..
I learned the hard way this rule.
I learned the hard way this rule.
Thread Starter
5 Year Member
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,789
Likes: 288
From: Wichita Falls, TX
Uh... @mig25 Did you not read that post? I did the timing job a month ago. Most of the pictures are in the What did you do to your 11th gen today? thread, as well as here: https://imgur.com/gallery/wwKJjUJ
What you did is completely unnecessary. The crank key has to be first set to 12:00, then remove the roller followers from #1 exhaust, #4 intakes, #5 intakes, rotate to 6:00 to get the #8 exhaust.
This is the instructions I made for myself from the Ford technical manuals (still checked with FTM's videos to make sure)
What you did is completely unnecessary. The crank key has to be first set to 12:00, then remove the roller followers from #1 exhaust, #4 intakes, #5 intakes, rotate to 6:00 to get the #8 exhaust.
This is the instructions I made for myself from the Ford technical manuals (still checked with FTM's videos to make sure)
- Remove front timing cover
- Remove valve covers
- Position crankshaft keyway to 12:00
- Remove exhaust roller follower from cylinder #1 right
- Remove intake roller followers from cylinder #4 right
- Remove intake roller followers from cylinder #5 left
- Position crankshaft keyway to 6:00
- Remove exhaust roller follower from cylinder #8 left
(removing the previous four roller followers places cam shafts in a neutral position for removing chains)
- Remove bolts from left tensioner and remove tensioner arm
- Remove bolts from right tensioner and remove tensioner arm
- Remove left and right chains
- Remove left and right chain guides
If a chain guide is broken, you'll need to drain the oil and remove the oil pan to retrieve the pieces, also, clean out oil pickup tube screen
- Using special tool, remove VCT's
- Remove right cam caps, remove cam, remove roller followers and replace lash adjusters
- Reinstall right cam and cam caps in original order (lubricate with oil)
- Remove left cam caps, remove cam, remove roller followers and replace lash adjusters
- Reinstall left cam and cam caps in original order (lubricate with oil)
- Install VCT solenoids
- Install cam phasers using special holding tool (R is up for right side, L is up for left side)
- Position crank to 11:00 using special tool (dot at 6:00)
- Install crank sprocket and chain guides
- Place chains in the correct spots (two links for L/R on phasers, one link on crank sprocket)
- Install tensioners and tensioner arms, remove retaining clip
- Install roller followers using special tool
- If oil pan was removed, add Sealant at two points between engine block and rear main for oil pan
- Reinstall oil pan
- Place gasket maker at six points: 2x at oil pan/block, 2x at head/block, 2x at head/valve cover
- Reinstall front cover
- Place gasket maker at four pounts at front cover to head
- Reinstall valve covers
Last edited by ShirBlackspots; Nov 19, 2019 at 08:02 PM.