I have from Monday the 14th until Sunday the 20th to work on it, since I took next week off. The timing job itself is supposed to be a 10 hour job, doing other stuff with it won't take much more time (I figure at a minimum 2-3 days for me to do it). I bought the idler pulleys, tensioner pulley and belt because I figured I might as well do it while I'm working on. The water pump and fan clutch might as well get done while I'm putting new hoses and thermostat in. I basically want this truck to run practically like new once I'm done.

 

I can't help but think you'll be pleasently satisfied. They key is to be thorough, change everything you can/want to. Looking forward to you chronicling it here so we all get to watch.

 

I would have started this weekend, but I got wrangled into helping my brother mow the parents yard.

 

You're a good kid, we're patient.

 

LOL! I'm no kid, I'm 43!

 

You are a kid -- enjoy it ! my kids are in their late 50's. I an other old farts have taken weeks to do this job . Take your time and be through -- thats why I said you are taking a big bite . Write out your check list and follow it . I make lists all my working life .I wrote my own procedures at work , now they are written and approved by some companies. But even nuke procedures were left wanting definition Its hell to fail a nuke procedure so we tried not to . We knew it needed modified but everybody begged --don't make it happen .
I wish the newer rollers were out when I did mine i feel the roller wheel needs a lot of direct oil spray.from the new orifice thats pointed at it .
If I were you I would do an engine flush just before timing job ,you need all the cleaning help you can get .

 

I've got a quart of MMO in the engine for the last 2500 miles.

 

Ok, I'm trying to figure out the torque of the following (and for easy printing out, Got the manuals in front of me on one screen. Also watching part 4 of FTM's timing sequence video)
18 ft-lbs --- Oil pickup tube bolts
18 in-lbs then 15 ft-lbs plus 60 degrees -- oil pan bolts
18 ft-lbs --- Oil filter adapter bolts
18 ft-lbs --- Water pump bolts
89 in-lbs --- Oil pump bolts
89 in-lbs --- Cam cap bolts
30 ft-lbs plus 90 degrees -- Cam Phasers
44 in-lbs --- VCT soilenoids
89 in-lbs --- Timing chain guides
18 ft-lbs --- Timing chain tensioners
89 in-lbs --- CKP/CMP sensors (if removed)
18 ft-lbs --- Timing cover bolts (all 15)
35 ft-lbs --- Bolts 6 and 7 on timing cover
15 ft-lbs --- Four oil pan bolts on front of oil pan, then 60 degrees
89 in-lbs --- Power steering cooler support nut
89 in-lbs --- Transmission cooler support nut
18 ft-lbs --- Three power steering bolts
66 ft-lbs, loosen 360 degrees, tighten to 37 ft-lbs plus 90 degrees (apply gasket sealant to key in pulley first) -- Crankcase Pulley (is there a simpler sequence?)
18 ft-lbs --- Drive belt tensioner, coolant pump pulley, drive belt idler pulleys
89 in-lbs --- Valve cover bolts (left/right)
89 in-lbs --- Left/right ignition interference cap nut
89 in-lbs --- Upper radiator support bracket
89 in-lbs --- Power steering support bracket nut
18 ft-lbs --- Power steering support bracket bolt
89 in-lbs --- Fuel rail bolts (if replacing fuel injectors)
25 ft-lbs --- Spark plugs (if they were removed)
53 in-lbs --- Ignition coils
18 ft-lbs --- Engine oil level indicator bolt
15 ft-lbs --- Transmission filler tube bolt
13 ft-lbs --- Fan clutch bolts
41 ft-lbs --- Fan clutch nut
89 in-lbs --- Thermostat housing bolts
22 ft-lbs --- Radiator support bracket bolts
53 in-lbs --- cooling fan shroud

Anything I'm missing (can't find torque specifics for the VCT solenoids)?

 

I think that it's something like 5 NM/~44 in lbs. It's a fairly small T27 so not much.

Don't think that I've ever actually torqued them. Just do them hand tight using a Torx driver that I have.

Says the same @ ~7:00 here:

 

Some tips here: your torque chart is dizzying. Don’t go crazy stressing over the torque value of every single fastener, or you’ll miss the forest for the trees. Unless the fastener is securing a gasket or a rotating assembly, I’ve never stress torque. Even most gaskets I go by feel. Big bolts get larger torque, smaller bolts get smaller torque. I’ve even had to NOT reach full torque on some older fasteners because I didn’t like how they feel (particularly when threading into aluminum or magnesium). If you don’t yet have a few for that, use your torque specs to determine some muscle memory for what the various fasteners feel like when torqued. Several items on the list don’t need to be touched.

Also pick up or rent a PS pulley puller. It will make accessing that 3rd hidden bolt much less aggravating.

Also set aside a contingency fund, because on a job like this it’s almost certain that you’ll have to replace parts that you either 1) broke or 2) didn’t know were bad (like my PS pump, several lines, T-stat, etc. now is also a great time for a cooling system flush or at least drain/fill. Same with PS.