Mike A.

That looks like a good plan of attack.

With +100K on it I'd do the rockers and adjusters while you're in there just as PM. Pulling that passenger side valve cover is one of the biggest pains of the job (that damn power steering pump being another). You don't want to have to do that again if you don't have to. A side benefit is that you don't have to take the time to check all of it and track the position of the rockers.

Also along the line of that valve cover, pull the passenger side wheel liner. Comes out without too much trouble and makes it a whole lot easier to get to the lower bolts on the valve cover and the big-*** bolt in the back for the transmission dipstick tube to help push that out of the way a little.

Pick up a 10mm (? I think but double check that) ratcheting flex head combination wrench to get to the back stud/bolt on the power steering pump. I use a short piece of 1" PVC on it to give me a little more leverage to break torque. I think the ideal tool might be a longer-handled, thinner-head 1/4" flex head ratchet. That's one that you can fight with for a while so whatever you can do to make that easier is a plus.

Last tip - clean everything up as best you can before you get started. It will be a lot better working on it and you won't have as much stuff falling into the motor as you pull things off and move things around. Going to happen some no matter what and it doesn't need to be operating room clean but less grunge is better. Likewise, take the opportunity to clean everything up well while you have it off before going back together. Grab a couple of cans of brake cleaner and some citrus-based or whatever other cleaner you like.

Edit: Also didn't see the thermostat on your list. Might as well since it's cheap and you're there and it's drained.

dukedkt442

There’s no way in the world I’d go that far in and NOT do every single lash adjuster and roller follower, especially since on your video a while back, your sounds seemed less phaser and more follower based.

To add to what Mike said, even better than a ratcheting 10mm wrench is a flex head ratcheting 10mm wrench. Grab an entire set of flex head ratcheting metrics... you’ll need them. I never pulled a fender liner because I never pulled a wheel when I did the job (had to pull the truck in and out of my shop every night because the truck stuck out the door), and while access to dipstick tube bolts and the big 18mm power steering bolt/stud were easy, it was blind, and side view access would have helped.

The captured 10mm PS bolt on mine was rounded, so rather than fight it, I just pulled the pump off with the front cover and then cut the pump off (for the core return), I was replacing both anyway.

ShirBlackspots

@Mike_A Oh, yeah. I do have a thermostat. Forgot to mention that. Does it matter that its a Duralast brand? BTW, I bought a Tekton 8mm and 10mm flex head ratcheting wrenches. The 10mm wrench ratchet part fell apart the first time I used it, I did put it back together together, though. Oh, and the open end of those wrenches are very weak. It wouldn't even turn the brake bleeder valves. (I used my impact wrench for that).

I might go to Lowe's and get a nice Kobalt or Craftsman 10mm flex head wrench.

@dukedkt442 I still maintain what you heard was the chain. But that was also before I started using full synthetic oil, and now it rattles a lot less (I even put a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in about a week ago)

FisoFLA

When I did mine I found it very helpful to get a big piece of cardboard (maybe 24" X 24") and roughly draw the shape of the timing cover on it. As I removed each bolt from the timing cover, I made a hole in the cardboard approximately where the bolt came from and stuck the bolt in there. There is a mix of bolts and studs holding on the timing cover and you want to get the studs back in their original location so other stuff can get reattached to them. I used a couple empty egg cartons to kinda do the same thing with the cam cover bolts.

I had to get specific transmission line removal tools ($12ish from Oreillys) to disconnect the trans lines from the radiator. My set of fuel disconnect tools wouldn't work. I borrowed the fan clutch, fan nut and crankshaft balancer removal tools from Autozone and they worked great. I have a big electric impact wrench from harbor freight that spun the crankshaft balancer bolt off like it was a lugnut. That power steering pump had me wishing I had full coverage insurance so I could set a match to the truck and walk away with check.

Mike A.

Agree. Do it. You're not going to want to ever have to do it again if you can avoid it and you have to pull most all of it anyway. I didn't do mine when I did phasers only the first time in and wanted to kick myself after one of my adjusters started tapping later.

Don't need to pull the wheel to get the liner out and I didn't either. Not much involved to remove it. Some small screws around, a few bolts on the bracket at the front and couple of push-in connectors toward the motor. As you say can be done without but makes it easier on that side I think. Driver's side you've got more room to work and no need. That's one that you can hold on try and do it without but just so you know that's another route in if you need it.

ShirBlackspots

Well, to be honest, I don't have $300 to do the roller followers and lash adjusters (also, why are the lash adjusters twice the price of the roller followers?) - $77 for roller followers and $189 for lash adjusters on Online Ford Parts Catalog (parts are cheaper slightly on Ford Parts Giant (a $5 difference), but shipping is cheaper on Online Ford Parts Catalog (a $9 difference), so overall, OFPC is cheaper by $4)

I might be able to buy the roller followers, but not the lash adjusters at the same time.

dukedkt442

Bad parts don’t care about your budget. Will you be able to afford them if you get it together and have to yank it apart again a few weeks later, like Mike has to? If your chain is making that much noises, metal has been circulating and all upper parts are suspect. I understand a budget, but also believe that if a job is worth doing, it’s worth doing right the first time.

I won’t lie, the only non Ford parts other than the oil pump were the lash adjusters, and went with Melling. Will they last as long as Ford? Who knows, but I figured if we all trust Melling QC with the ultra important pumps, why not the simple lash adjusters? After 5k miles they were still quiet as a church mouse. I put up a video of my engine with an exhaust leak, and it was still quieter than many 5.4s with no leaks. I got genuine FORD followers for under $100 from Advance Auto ordering online and using a 25% off coupon. Just throwing it out there to help the budget.

ShirBlackspots

When you bought your Melling lash adjusters, were they sold in pairs or individually?

Also, you can no longer find OEM Ford roller followers on Advance Auto.

Mike A.

Yeah, it adds up. But if there's any way that you can swing it, you should do it. I'd trade off some of the other parts in your list to get that done. Cam and crank sensors don't go bad much in these that I've seen and can be replaced without tearing things down again. Likewise a lot of the other senders and sensors that you have listed unless maybe you're having some particular problem that calls for it now. Like I said earlier with some of the other stuff, most all of that you can get to later without much trouble. You have a (hopefully) rare opportunity to take care of things internal while you're in there. Not easy to get back to.

Mine is fixed now. Took care of that when I had to pull it apart again to do the timing. But, yeah, bugged the hell out of me for a long time.

Might also want to budget for a crank sensor wheel too. You can take a look at yours and see whether it's chewed up when you get there and don't need to buy in advance. Can pick up at the dealer for ~$25-$30 if you need to replace.

ShirBlackspots

Yes, I already bought the crank tone wheel.

FWIW. I guess the Melling lash adjusters come in a box of four:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/183789157141

The UPC is the same as what's on Melling's parts lookup tool.