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If you end up pulling the cams you might as well clean the lifters/replace sticky ones.
^good advice, I found 13 out of 24 lash adjusters were bad on mine that did not hold pressure and were causing a loud tick (lifter noise). I replaced all 24 lash adjusters and followers as well.
F150torqued is spot on with using a helper to move the cam some when sliding the phaser in place. Line up the colored links with the marks on the phasers, hold in place while your helper moves the cam some until the phaser can be properly installed. I did my timing components a couple years ago and have had no issues since and have also done about 5 or 6 of these replacements on other trucks since with no issues (car lot where I bought my truck has asked me to come help them a few times). Good luck and take your time, not a hard job, just time consuming. We are here to help if you run into any issues.
Tom
@Darren123 - Back on topic of your thread, I originally entered the discussion concerning installation of lockouts, and advocating retention of the variable valve timing feature. Recent discussions by several members that I hold in VERY high regard have lead me go back and read your entire thread. THAT review revealed important information that bears negatively on my recent expressed opinion. Two posts I note are:
Originally Posted by Summers22
With that PO016 code, I know deep down you want it to be a sensor, but it is not. You need a full timing job done. Sucks, but its reality. I would get a reman Ford engine with warranty.
P0016 can be the result of a chain jumping a tooth - or excessive drag on one cam that prevents the phaser from effectively returning a retarded cam to base position. @Summers22 advice was correct in either event.
I also note:
Originally Posted by Darren123
Yes no warranty, I bought truck 9 months about and found out not well serviced, it has 300,000 km, ...
With that many miles, (and especially in conjunction with @Summers22 advice), and now that of @papa tiger, @vintageman, @Phil48315 (all of which are very knowledgeable and I respect their opinions), I am joining them in recommending [If there is any way possible at this point] - at least removing/ inspecting /cleaning the rollers/followers and lifters AND the VCT valve bodies if you havent done so already. OR replace all them if it is possible. I replaced all of mine a part of my job (though cams looked perfect) at 212,000 miles. And have never regretted it.
Ok so remove my cams completely and what tools do I need as it is Friday and lots places closed on sat. I don't think anyplace here as I'm not in a large city that rents anything for this...
Look.at slack as it is in resting spot no tension.
Or can I take cams straight off and valves and stuff will stay in place except the roller under cam . I will wait for a reply on steps first to remove cams. Thx
Quality hand tools and going back a torque wrench. A small level can help you get the crank gear spotted strait at 6:00. Just center the verticle bubble. As you loosen the cam the tension will relax on it finally becoming static ( no pressure on the cam followers. All thevalves on that bank will then be closed. Try to keep your valve/cam parts in order/go back in the same spot for original fits unless you intend to do complete replacements of followers etc. U want to take the cam loose gradually not a jornal completely off until all are loose. Cuts down on the chance for damage. That also lets you set them aside in order to go back together. Don' t just toss m in box. If you see wear on a part the part it touches is also bad.
Last edited by papa tiger; Nov 25, 2016 at 06:14 PM.
Agree w/ @papa tiger completely. Can't think of any tool you will need beyond socket set & torque wrench. I actually had the special spring compressor tool and ****-canned it. Just backed off journal bolts 1/4 turn or so up and down both sides of the journals till no tension remains on anything, and pulled rollers out. (Like papa tiger says - keep them straight. Reused ones should go back same spot.
I replaced all my rollers & lash adjusters and when I went back together, I installed lash adjusters and was able to "CAREFULLY" set all rollers in place - then "VERY GENTLY" set cams on top of them (only knock a couple of rollers off once or twice on each side) and carefully put journals on - tightning them 1/4 turn or so till everything tightened up. [Redneck method, but it worked!!]
