In my 2021, base system, Im doing an MTI enclosure for dual L7Ts, and coax in rear doors, Kicker QSS up front off a 7 channel amp. Simple, yet effective and stealth

 

I am getting ready to do my install on my 302A with the base 7 speaker stereo system and after reading a ton of great threads I still have a few questions I am hoping others can answer. I recently received a pre-release harness from safewireless that has the right plugs for my stereo and the pin out for the speakers. It does have the 5 pairs of speaker wires in it correctly, but I am trying to figure out if one of the other connections can be used for a remote turn on for my dsp/amps. I am also planning on using an MS8 for my DSP, which I believe will sense the inputs and turn on as needed, but I prefer to use the proper 12 volt signal if it exists. My questions I am hoping someone can answer are below.

Questions.
1. Does anyone have the full pin out for the stereo, I have seen the diagram for the speaker location and color codes, but was hoping to identify which pins on the connector they go to.

2. Is there a specific wire that people are using behind the head unit for the remote turn on? I saw that someone was using a purple red lined wire, but I am not sure if this is working properly or not.

3. Even though I am using a DSP that should normalize the signal I was wondering what settings people where using with Forscan? It looks like I can maybe disable the DSP and flatten the EQ, but not sure if anyone had found common settings for this or not.

Equipment I am using in my install
DSP: JBL MS8
AMP: Zed Audio Leviathan III
SUB Amp: Zed Audio Kronos
Front Speakers: Hybrid Audio Legatia L6SE
Tweeters: Hybrid Audio Legatia SE Pro L1
Rear Speakers: Hybrid Audio Imagine 6.5 Coax
Sub: Fox Box with 2 x 10" Morel Ultimo

 

From looking at the wiring diagram already posted for the 7-speaker, it appears that our RCSB (or RCLB) trucks have no wiring output from the ACM for the center channel and none for the rear speakers. From taking my rear wall apart a bit to examine I also think they’ve omitted the cutout for the B&O subwoofer; hence, no need for them to even provide a plug for it either.

I’ve installed Focal 3-way components: 6.5” doors (saved out the Focal woofers for now. I’m auditioning the stock woofer working in conjunction with the Focal mid and tweeter using the Focal 3-way crossover), 4” mids left and right dash (like B&O Unleashed does), and tweeters in sail panels (as done stock). Install tip: if you remove your sail panels first, you can then carefully pry up and unsnap the entire defroster dash panel without having to pull anything else on the dash to do it. Start prying from doors inward and it comes out without damage.

I ran the wires from new tweeters and mids down the mid openings and over to the center dash area where my Focal crossovers will fit nicely right above the APIM. I can either install the Focal mid grilles to align just over the mids using the stock non B&O defrost dash panel or find the same piece with factory grilles as for the B&O trucks. I also put a 4” midrange in the OEM B&O Unleashed center channel tray with grille for a retrofit. I had thought to try to swap in the B&O sub for a trial in our small-volume cabs, but apparently not so easy as pulling a plug and installing it. So, I’ve got an excellent free-air 10” sub on a solid square plate that I’ve shoehorned for now behind me and the bench seat. An AudioControl D-6.1200 6-channel amp will go on that back wall. I ran the stereo pair of front speaker outs from the ACM to the amp, then sent its output speaker wiring back to the front.

However, seeing that the ACM is set up to output a center channel speaker signal if coded properly I now want to try that simple addition before going further out of curiosity. I have already retrofitted the high-level ACM that includes HD Radio. It also has the USB jack they use to send a digital signal out to the OEM DSP amp. Hmmmmmm. Not a traditional form factor like Toslink or SPDIF but wouldn’t it be nice to skip the speaker level inputs into our latest aftermarket DSP amps in favor of a simple digital input to them?

Edits made to the 7-speaker diagram


Left dash corner midrange location. If you’re using a 3.5” with a small enough magnet it may just drop in. My Focal mids did not, magnet too large in diameter. No worries, I was able to carefully scribe, cut and remove material around that opening to allow it to drop in. I used E6000 to secure the driver on the flat plastic just below the two small pins seen in the photo.

Right dash corner midrange location. Note carefully the defroster duct that protrudes a bit at the bottom. You’ll have to offset your cuts if you do what I did as described for the left speaker.


Viewed under the hood. Feed battery power to your amps(s) through this large rubber grommet right behind the under-hood fuse box and battery, both on the right (passenger) side of the truck.

Viewed inside the cab looking up from passenger side kick panel after removing the fuse box door. Here’s the power cable that I used a long plastic wire snake to feed through that grommet, seen and grabbed by removing the inside fuse box door (passenger kick panel) and reaching up.


Driver’s side. I may still go with a factory defroster panel if I can figure out what to get.

Mids in place, before I put the defroster panel back on with the grilles installed.

The amp is secure right behind the center section of the bench seat. The free-air sub is right behind the driver. The face of the subwoofer is aimed right at the air vent just behind the soft trim. They have these vents on each side of the rear wall.

I sprayed the Focal grilles with matte finish to make them satin instead of gloss black. I used a proper diameter hole cutter in my cordless drill and drilled from the back side. 4 short screws hold the grille without protruding down in where the speakers reside.


I was asked about doing the ACM swap. There are other threads on point, but here’s a view of what’s just underneath the upper center dash tray. 4x7mm bolts hold that bracket in place and then 4 more of those 7mm bolts hold the ACM in. Lift up/out and unplug. I bought a harness from an eBay seller that let me send the factory speaker signals out to the amp and back to receive the signals from that amp to send back out to the speakers.

 

How was your kicker key setup? With BiAmp mode shut off when he shipped it?
Sounds like he pulled the front Chanells only to amp1 and amp 2 if your rework on the wiring corrected it?

 

What JL sub did you get to fit behind rear seat? is this a super crew cab? year of truck? I just joined so this is all new to me. I have a 2022 super crew Thanks

 

Yes I ordered it as a bi-amp setup. Not sure if it was just a wrong harness or what, but the front channel inputs were feeding both the front and rears.

Outside of that the overall setup has been fantastic.

 

What is the impedance of the factory door speakers in the base system? Hoping some nice 3 ohm 6x9 components will work well without an amp.

 

Hey guys, I've got the B&O Unleashed and am having issues with my sub signal. I'm running a DD LE-M10 prefab box and a DD DM500a. I have pulled the signal from the factory sub and ran it through an LC2i. No matter what I can't get the bass not to drop several db after a few seconds when turning it up loud. Accubass just seems to have no effect. From what I understand from previous posts, the front door speakers are full range. Can I get my signal from there and stop the DSP from taking over? By the way, I have turned off ANC with Forscan, and have verified the fake engine noise is off as well.

 

They are 4 ohms for the front 6x9 Incase anyone is wondering.

 

To my knowledge there isn't a good way to pull from the factory sub. Unless something has changed you still need the Zen A/B module.