2021 Basic sound system upgrade thread
Ok, newbie vehicle audio guy here.
can someone put a list of speakers together including their optimal location for me?
I’m just looking to swap out the factory speakers with better ones. Nothing serious. My truck is an XL
I listen to a lot of metal (Slipknot to be exact!)
what brands and models does anyone suggest?
can someone put a list of speakers together including their optimal location for me?
I’m just looking to swap out the factory speakers with better ones. Nothing serious. My truck is an XL
I listen to a lot of metal (Slipknot to be exact!)
what brands and models does anyone suggest?
Ok, newbie vehicle audio guy here.
can someone put a list of speakers together including their optimal location for me?
I’m just looking to swap out the factory speakers with better ones. Nothing serious. My truck is an XL
I listen to a lot of metal (Slipknot to be exact!)
what brands and models does anyone suggest?
can someone put a list of speakers together including their optimal location for me?
I’m just looking to swap out the factory speakers with better ones. Nothing serious. My truck is an XL
I listen to a lot of metal (Slipknot to be exact!)
what brands and models does anyone suggest?
Hertz/Morel/JL Audio are good but so many on the market..all depends on your budget.
Last edited by Shane803; Jan 27, 2022 at 05:46 PM.
I’ve been down this road so many times. Over and over I convince myself that better speakers will be good enough and then I’ll add an aftermarket amp and sub “later”. 20 years ago that worked-not anymore. Now I only want a “little better” but it’s $2000 or nothing just to get started.
Shane803 is giving you really good advice. Bruce with HushCarAudio can give you great pricing and won’t steer you wrong either. They are both spot on.
FWIW, I’m replacing door speakers and adding two 10” subs. I’ll have a 6 channel amp powering the front and rear speakers and a mono amp for the subs. I’ll have an entry level dsp and the zen audio a2b to integrate into my B&O 8-speaker system. That’s a little over $3k and none of the individual items are worth bragging about. They’re simply the best bank for the buck and will drastically improve the sound once all installed and I’ll have to do the install myself.
Last weekend I had time to apply the sound deadener and replace the door speakers. Still on the stock amp and stock sub. It’s disheartening how it currently sounds. If anything, it’s more “muddy” because of the stock equalizer settings within the system and the lower sensitivity of the speakers. If you’re going to upgrade slowly, be prepared for disappointment until you’re able to follow the advice from this thread.
Shane803 is giving you really good advice. Bruce with HushCarAudio can give you great pricing and won’t steer you wrong either. They are both spot on.
FWIW, I’m replacing door speakers and adding two 10” subs. I’ll have a 6 channel amp powering the front and rear speakers and a mono amp for the subs. I’ll have an entry level dsp and the zen audio a2b to integrate into my B&O 8-speaker system. That’s a little over $3k and none of the individual items are worth bragging about. They’re simply the best bank for the buck and will drastically improve the sound once all installed and I’ll have to do the install myself.
Last weekend I had time to apply the sound deadener and replace the door speakers. Still on the stock amp and stock sub. It’s disheartening how it currently sounds. If anything, it’s more “muddy” because of the stock equalizer settings within the system and the lower sensitivity of the speakers. If you’re going to upgrade slowly, be prepared for disappointment until you’re able to follow the advice from this thread.
I’ve been down this road so many times. Over and over I convince myself that better speakers will be good enough and then I’ll add an aftermarket amp and sub “later”. 20 years ago that worked-not anymore. Now I only want a “little better” but it’s $2000 or nothing just to get started.
Shane803 is giving you really good advice. Bruce with HushCarAudio can give you great pricing and won’t steer you wrong either. They are both spot on.
FWIW, I’m replacing door speakers and adding two 10” subs. If you’re going to upgrade slowly, be prepared for disappointment until you’re able to follow the advice from this thread.
Shane803 is giving you really good advice. Bruce with HushCarAudio can give you great pricing and won’t steer you wrong either. They are both spot on.
FWIW, I’m replacing door speakers and adding two 10” subs. If you’re going to upgrade slowly, be prepared for disappointment until you’re able to follow the advice from this thread.
However, one can find some pretty decent speakers with lower impedance that should sound better than stock. If you have a reputable car audio shop in your town, they would be worth a visit. The guys who do it for a living are always good to hit up for advice, as they have most likely done a few 150's.
Apologies for any offense. Only meant to express empathy for being at exactly the same place many times in my past and regretting some of my own decisions. And to add support to some of the advice here. YMMV. Only best wishes for your project.
I’ve been down this road so many times. Over and over I convince myself that better speakers will be good enough and then I’ll add an aftermarket amp and sub “later”. 20 years ago that worked-not anymore. Now I only want a “little better” but it’s $2000 or nothing just to get started.
Shane803 is giving you really good advice. Bruce with HushCarAudio can give you great pricing and won’t steer you wrong either. They are both spot on.
FWIW, I’m replacing door speakers and adding two 10” subs. I’ll have a 6 channel amp powering the front and rear speakers and a mono amp for the subs. I’ll have an entry level dsp and the zen audio a2b to integrate into my B&O 8-speaker system. That’s a little over $3k and none of the individual items are worth bragging about. They’re simply the best bank for the buck and will drastically improve the sound once all installed and I’ll have to do the install myself.
Last weekend I had time to apply the sound deadener and replace the door speakers. Still on the stock amp and stock sub. It’s disheartening how it currently sounds. If anything, it’s more “muddy” because of the stock equalizer settings within the system and the lower sensitivity of the speakers. If you’re going to upgrade slowly, be prepared for disappointment until you’re able to follow the advice from this thread.
Shane803 is giving you really good advice. Bruce with HushCarAudio can give you great pricing and won’t steer you wrong either. They are both spot on.
FWIW, I’m replacing door speakers and adding two 10” subs. I’ll have a 6 channel amp powering the front and rear speakers and a mono amp for the subs. I’ll have an entry level dsp and the zen audio a2b to integrate into my B&O 8-speaker system. That’s a little over $3k and none of the individual items are worth bragging about. They’re simply the best bank for the buck and will drastically improve the sound once all installed and I’ll have to do the install myself.
Last weekend I had time to apply the sound deadener and replace the door speakers. Still on the stock amp and stock sub. It’s disheartening how it currently sounds. If anything, it’s more “muddy” because of the stock equalizer settings within the system and the lower sensitivity of the speakers. If you’re going to upgrade slowly, be prepared for disappointment until you’re able to follow the advice from this thread.
I emailed Bruce at HushCarAudio. (Forum member) I gave him my budget and goals…and then changed my mind twice. He answered every question and helped me work through it. His pricing is also excellent. 100% recommend.
I needed to keep my under seat rear storage. Huge limiting factor. I built a sealed box for behind the seat similar to MTIs design. Already had two shallow JL 10”s for it from a previous build. (Neighbor has the JL stealth box with the one 13.5” under the seat and it’s incredible.)
Morel 6.5 coaxials for the rear fill, Morel 6.5 components for the front. Audio Control LC 6.1200 amp driving all of those. Audio Control LC 1.800 driving the two shallow subs. Dayton 408 DSP. And the NavTV a2b.
Once I had the door speakers installed I hooked up the subs to test and it was exactly what I wanted. Taking the subs and both amps out to build a new amp rack leaves me with new door speakers and the stock amp and sub. Ugh.
Serious audio guys would call my new set up an entry-level system and they’d be right. It’s so much better than the 8-speaker BO system though. Absolutely worth the price of admission.
I needed to keep my under seat rear storage. Huge limiting factor. I built a sealed box for behind the seat similar to MTIs design. Already had two shallow JL 10”s for it from a previous build. (Neighbor has the JL stealth box with the one 13.5” under the seat and it’s incredible.)
Morel 6.5 coaxials for the rear fill, Morel 6.5 components for the front. Audio Control LC 6.1200 amp driving all of those. Audio Control LC 1.800 driving the two shallow subs. Dayton 408 DSP. And the NavTV a2b.
Once I had the door speakers installed I hooked up the subs to test and it was exactly what I wanted. Taking the subs and both amps out to build a new amp rack leaves me with new door speakers and the stock amp and sub. Ugh.
Serious audio guys would call my new set up an entry-level system and they’d be right. It’s so much better than the 8-speaker BO system though. Absolutely worth the price of admission.
I emailed Bruce at HushCarAudio. (Forum member) I gave him my budget and goals…and then changed my mind twice. He answered every question and helped me work through it. His pricing is also excellent. 100% recommend.
I needed to keep my under seat rear storage. Huge limiting factor. I built a sealed box for behind the seat similar to MTIs design. Already had two shallow JL 10”s for it from a previous build. (Neighbor has the JL stealth box with the one 13.5” under the seat and it’s incredible.)
Morel 6.5 coaxials for the rear fill, Morel 6.5 components for the front. Audio Control LC 6.1200 amp driving all of those. Audio Control LC 1.800 driving the two shallow subs. Dayton 408 DSP. And the NavTV a2b.
Once I had the door speakers installed I hooked up the subs to test and it was exactly what I wanted. Taking the subs and both amps out to build a new amp rack leaves me with new door speakers and the stock amp and sub. Ugh.
Serious audio guys would call my new set up an entry-level system and they’d be right. It’s so much better than the 8-speaker BO system though. Absolutely worth the price of admission.
I needed to keep my under seat rear storage. Huge limiting factor. I built a sealed box for behind the seat similar to MTIs design. Already had two shallow JL 10”s for it from a previous build. (Neighbor has the JL stealth box with the one 13.5” under the seat and it’s incredible.)
Morel 6.5 coaxials for the rear fill, Morel 6.5 components for the front. Audio Control LC 6.1200 amp driving all of those. Audio Control LC 1.800 driving the two shallow subs. Dayton 408 DSP. And the NavTV a2b.
Once I had the door speakers installed I hooked up the subs to test and it was exactly what I wanted. Taking the subs and both amps out to build a new amp rack leaves me with new door speakers and the stock amp and sub. Ugh.
Serious audio guys would call my new set up an entry-level system and they’d be right. It’s so much better than the 8-speaker BO system though. Absolutely worth the price of admission.








