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Guess I was thinking the 2nd setting as previously mentioned. But after the next 4 posts of people having wildly different results I'm not so sure lol. Iv'e looked through a lot of this thread and seems like similar results. Guess I'll have to take a chance. Thanks guys.
Guess I was thinking the 2nd setting as previously mentioned. But after the next 4 posts of people having wildly different results I'm not so sure lol. Iv'e looked through a lot of this thread and seems like similar results. Guess I'll have to take a chance. Thanks guys.
Everyone's truck seems to do different things at each setting. So 1.75 might be 1.5-2" range depending on the truck. The only way to know for yours is to have the truck on flat ground without that jack under it and measure the distance from the ground to the fender in the front and back, then subtract and see what the difference is. If I were you, I'd put it on 2.1 and send it. That's what 90% of the people have it set to and it seems to work out great. If it's too high, back it down from there.
Everyone's truck seems to do different things at each setting. So 1.75 might be 1.5-2" range depending on the truck. The only way to know for yours is to have the truck on flat ground without that jack under it and measure the distance from the ground to the fender in the front and back, then subtract and see what the difference is. If I were you, I'd put it on 2.1 and send it. That's what 90% of the people have it set to and it seems to work out great. If it's too high, back it down from there.
That's what I'd do too (I did). If it's too high, you can always add blocks to the rear. MUCH easier than tearing the front back apart to adjust the struts and looks great IMO. I didnt see any appreciable difference in fuel milage with 305/70R18 tires either (34.8x12) rear blocks were $60
Everyone's truck seems to do different things at each setting. So 1.75 might be 1.5-2" range depending on the truck. The only way to know for yours is to have the truck on flat ground without that jack under it and measure the distance from the ground to the fender in the front and back, then subtract and see what the difference is. If I were you, I'd put it on 2.1 and send it. That's what 90% of the people have it set to and it seems to work out great. If it's too high, back it down from there.
Im not looking to make the truck any higher. I had to do rear spacers in my last truck just to get a little rake after the dealer installed leveling kit. If I do it I think I’ll just do the 2nd setting (1.76”) and go from there. I have 3” difference front to back.
Just installed the 5100s. Originally set it to the 1.76 setting and for some reason got over 2" of lift and had no rake. I like a little rake and I also tow a trailer from time to time. I'm now on the 1.26 setting with 20x9 +2 offset wheels and 33 x 12.5 RG. No rubbing whatsoever.
Motofab 2.25" leveling kit, here. I've had it on for about 4k miles so far with no issues. Sits exactly level (I have the FX4 package) at just over 36" from ground to fender in both the front and rear. I don't tow or haul often. If I did, I'd toss in some higher rear blocks to get some rake back.
Tires are 275/75r18 and wheels are18x9 with a +1 offset.
This truck is my daily driver. I am contemplating swapping the stock Hankook 275/55R20’s for a taller set of Ridge Grappler 275/65R20’s. I would keep the OEM 20x8.5 wheels. This would take the truck from 32’s to 34’s, keeping the same tire width. My goal is a more aggressive stance without additional poke. Nothing too drastic considering my engine and gears... right?
After reviewing FourBitty’s spreadsheet, I would need a 1.5” - 1.75” lift to safely clear the Nitto’s. If it counts for anything, I want WeatherTech mud flaps on all fours. While I do not anticipate towing much (if at all), I want to maintain at least some rake on the truck.
I am having difficulty deciding how to best accomplish the needed lift without going overboard. Currently, I am torn between a 1.5” leveling kit, keeping the FX4 shocks (for whatever they’re worth), or going with Bilstein 5100’s all around (front set at 1.75”).
Perhaps those with more knowledge and experience could provide some guidance? Maybe there is another solution I am not seeing?
Fillmore, your jump from 32" to 34" tires will be a noticeable change in your effective final drive gearing. With the 3.55s it would have been borderline with the 2.7 and the six-speed but since you have the 10, you'll be alright. You might not use 10th as often, however.
As for your suspension question, I can answer UNEQUIVOCABLY: You want the 5100s on all four corners. Trust us! on this.
And your idea using the 1.76" front height should be perfect if you still want a little rake.
Fillmore, your jump from 32" to 34" tires will be a noticeable change in your effective final drive gearing. With the 3.55s it would have been borderline with the 2.7 and the six-speed but since you have the 10, you'll be alright. You might not use 10th as often, however.
As for your suspension question, I can answer UNEQUIVOCABLY: You want the 5100s on all four corners. Trust us! on this.
And your idea using the 1.76" front height should be perfect if you still want a little rake.
Noticeable change??? Since I do not have the 3.73 axle ratio, in the long run, am I asking for more problems than it is worth? Maybe better to stick with the stock set up?
No, you wouldn't ruin the truck, but perhaps going to a 33" tire might be considered. Better effective gearing, less chance of rubbage.
Two inches of tire is the point where one should *start* to think about an axle gearing swap, that's all. You have the 10-speed, so you should be fine.