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Was it easy to rotate the top of the strut assembly to align the bolt holes?
Originally Posted by johnday in BFE
You don't rotate the tophat, you turn the whole thing 180*, or flip sides. If you just rotate 180*, the pinbar on bottom mount will be angled the wrong direction, just take a big pair of channelocks and rotate it until it sits right.
Bilstein's all the way around with the 1.75 setting on front. Threw some Raptor take-offs on it and other than a little bit of a hit to mileage, I haven't had any issues. Edit, I did have to swap the crash bars. I noticed some slight rubbing. I haven't gone out and ran it through an places where it articulates the suspension all the way, but I haven't had any additional rubbing so far. Just a bit of a weird creaking sound going up an off camber driveway.
Last edited by loveinit; Sep 22, 2020 at 02:51 AM.
Reason: Adding info
It’s crazy to see all the differences with leveling kits. I added a 2” and my front is 3/4” higher than the rear. Some folks add 2.5” and the rear is still higher. I have the 1.25” rear block from the factory. Looking to throw a 2.5” in there instead to give it a slight rake. As long as the front isn’t higher. Not trying to look “squatted”.
It’s crazy to see all the differences with leveling kits. I added a 2” and my front is 3/4” higher than the rear. Some folks add 2.5” and the rear is still higher. I have the 1.25” rear block from the factory. Looking to throw a 2.5” in there instead to give it a slight rake. As long as the front isn’t higher. Not trying to look “squatted”.
Ya,it is nuts. I'm sorta seeing a pattern here with the guys that have the 2.7, seems they get an extra little bit out of levels. Weight of the engine maybe?
Ya,it is nuts. I'm sorta seeing a pattern here with the guys that have the 2.7, seems they get an extra little bit out of levels. Weight of the engine maybe?
Hmm, could be. Maybe eventually I’ll go with some Fox or Bilstein struts instead of the spacer. Seems the next issue is rear blocks. Plenty of choices for 2” or 3” rear blocks. Seems only 1 brand is available the 2.25” or 2.5” though. And of course they’re triple the price.
It’s crazy to see all the differences with leveling kits. I added a 2” and my front is 3/4” higher than the rear. Some folks add 2.5” and the rear is still higher. I have the 1.25” rear block from the factory. Looking to throw a 2.5” in there instead to give it a slight rake. As long as the front isn’t higher. Not trying to look “squatted”.
I hear you. It's because of the different equipment groups and their respective weights. For example, if you were to look up in a Ford Parts webpage for front suspension coil springs, there're at least 7 different part numbers, and they're probably all different spring rates.
I'm about to slap some Bilstein 6112 (with their 500 in/lb rate - for both the 2WD and 4WD applications!) on my 2WD Coyote (one of the lighter engine arrangements due to it's relative simplicity sans turbos, manifold vacuum generating system, yadda yadda...) Guys that have sought the 2" ride height increase on RCSB Coyotes using the 6112/500 in/lb spring wind up at 2-1/2" and topped out with no down travel.
I'm gonna try the 1-1/2" (remember, the 6112s height settings are designated differently than the 5100 positions lift) on my lighter-weight, lightly-optioned Super Crew and hope I'm well under 2" after all is said and done. It's a crap shoot.
I hear you. It's because of the different equipment groups and their respective weights. For example, if you were to look up in a Ford Parts webpage for front suspension coil springs, there're at least 7 different part numbers, and they're probably all different spring rates.
I'm about to slap some Bilstein 6112 (with their 500 in/lb rate - for both the 2WD and 4WD applications!) on my 2WD Coyote (one of the lighter engine arrangements due to it's relative simplicity sans turbos, manifold vacuum generating system, yadda yadda...) Guys that have sought the 2" ride height increase on RCSB Coyotes using the 6112/500 in/lb spring wind up at 2-1/2" and topped out with no down travel.
I'm gonna try the 1-1/2" (remember, the 6112s height settings are designated differently than the 5100 positions lift) on my lighter-weight, lightly-optioned Super Crew and hope I'm well under 2" after all is said and done. It's a crap shoot.
Adjustable is the way to go. Then you can dial it in to exactly what you want. Lots of folks install struts or spacers and get it aligned the same day. They don’t give it a few days to settle and adjust to the new parts. Good point about spring rates though, could make or break the setup you pick.
Right, and it would certainly be easier than going back in there, blowing the front end apart again to DISassemble the strut combo to reset it...
But I'm going for it: Going to assemble these 6112s at 1.5" and hope it's not much over 1.75 when installed and driven a few miles. Stuff doesn't "settle" much more after that, and good coil springs never settle.
What most guys think is settling is simply the front suspension swinging into it's arc which can only be done if there's weight on the tires by rolling the truck back or forward about 25 feet, at least. Not directing this at you, just muttering under my breath.
Ok, so I'll be posting pics in a week. For sheets n giggles, this is how my truck sits today. Bilstein 5100s all around, fronts at "stock" height. Rear has MaxTrac 1" lowering shackles that I installed three years ago. There's weight in the bed, but there's also the Roadmaster Active Suspension rig on the rear leafs which bumps the rear height, depending on it's preload, 1/2" to 3/4". I installed it with slightly less preload and got just 3/8" increase in static rear height. I will be swapping the OE shackles back in it at the time I do the 6112s at 1-1/2" next week, along with some 5160s.
