Yes, you will need to rotate the strut 180, that will also throw the angle of the bottom pinbar, opposite of what it should be, but can be rotated to proper angle.
Material, here is where some will differ with me. I've used them all, poly and steel are my choice. The last aluminum ones I used, got corrosion between spacer and tophat. I had to cut them off due to dissimilar metals. Not fun, but managed to save the tophat.
Be careful watching those YouTube videos, most of them are amateurs, that I suspect, is the first time they ever did this. Look up Ford Tech Macaloco, sure I misspelled that. He's an actual Ford Tech that has very good, knowledgeable videos. There is a school of thought out there, that you need to loosen either Upper or lower controlarms. You don't need to do either, and by doing so, chances are very good, you'll be screwing up the camber. Once you have the the ball joints busted loose, just remove the nut on the spindle, and slide the knuckle, bearings, etc., off the half shaft, and you'll have plenty of room. To reinstall, you don't need a vacuum pump either. Just get the knuckle and halfshaft lined up, and thread the nut on just enough to keep everything together. Then while rotating the rotor, slowly tighten up the nut, once teeth are meshed you'll know it. Torque down that nut to 25-30 ft#,s, then reassemble the rest. Then get an alignment.

 

Thanks for the advice, I think I will go with the steel poly type then.

so once installing the spacer to the top mount the spacer will only line up 1 way into the strut mount holes on the body due to spacing between the studs? Then just rotate the bottom to line up the studs into the lower control arm? Just trying to get an idea but will def watch the Ford tech video

 

Yes, the spacer will only line up one way on the top mount, no chance of error.. I always install the top first, and just finger tighten the nuts. You may have to pound out the bottom studs if your using the OEM shocks, best done off the truck. Once you get the top in, you'll see what you have to do with the pinbar on bottom of shock, I've taken a large pair of channel locks to them and twist them whichever way you need to get close enough to get studs in their holes, then tighten up.

I've never tied it, yet, I always forget to try, but just possibly, by taking the right side, and installing on the left, everything might just line up, and lessen the pain.

 

So got my alignment done yesterday and no surprise...... TOE way out from up sizing tires. Purchased 3 year alignment a while back so can get as many as i want (within reason) during the 3 year period. (80$ for one alignment, or 170 for 3 years.... as long as I have it aligned at least once a year, great deal! 2 so far!

Also had them flip and re balance the drivers rear tire. When I went to pay for the flip, they told me "your all good, it was all warranty" I guess they thought I bought the wheels and tires from them! HA! either that or they never looked at the computer screen..... either way mount and balance was free... Probably glad to have me gone, was watching them trying to mount/dismount the tire. Glad I did as they were using the machine without the plastic attachments that protect custom wheels from damage....... If I had not said anything I'd probably have badly damaged wheels.

 

Smitty,

What are your dual exhausts? And engine. I like and am considering a "quiet" dual exhaust for "Street Queen!."

 

No idea, will have to crawl under and see what is on it. Is fairly loud at startup and cold idle, then quiets down a little. No drone sound at highway speed.

5.0 V8
1 into 2 exhaust, not a true dual.

I will be under it running wiring in the next day or so will take a look, but again NOT quiet. less noisy than my motorcycles.... but NOT quiet.

 

Spent about 30 mins talking with a local shop that has done dozens of F-150 levels over the past year. I’m going with 20x10 (-18) and 305/55R20.

shop says that it will probably slightly rub when reversing in full lock. I have reason to trust them and they will test it out after and make any necessary cuts to crash bars.

Last question and decision though....!

Bilstein 6112 or Fox 2.0 coilovers? Are the Fox worth the extra couple hundred?

 

I went with fox mainly because I did not have to swap parts from my existing struts and I was doing it in my driveway. What I read on both before buying seemed fairly close. I am happy with the fox but cannot compare them performance wise to blistens.

Definitely less labor as they are bolt on.

 

I have the 6112s up front and have absolutely zero complaints. I spent about $650 altogether for them and the 5100s out back from Stage 3 Motorsports. Had a hookup for the install which didn't cost me hardly anything. I'm sure the Fox system is great but I couldn't justify the additional cost. Ballin on a budget lol

 

kind of what I’m thinking. I’ll be having the shop install so no issue there.

what tires do you have? Stock wheels?