How to: 2015+ Column to Console shift Conversion Guide
Wep, you might be in luck. I have about 70% of the parts needed for a 6 speed conversion that I won't need myself.
What I don't have are the nuts and bolts that Firerunner posted early in this thread. I also don't have a shift boot either. You're going to need the wire harness too for the shifter and some basic electrical experience with wiring.
Firerunner posted the part number FL3Z-14A318F for the wire harness looks to be about $35ish depending on where you buy it from Ford. I would buy the correct harness for whatever year you have using a VIN from the same year truck you have with a floor shift. Those can be found on sites like Cars.Com or Autotrader.com
All the signals are on the column, you just have to have a basic understanding of the circuits.
See this post.
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/how-2...2/#post5540903
We might have to take this to a PM after all because I don't want to turn this into a parts marketing thread.
Mike
What I don't have are the nuts and bolts that Firerunner posted early in this thread. I also don't have a shift boot either. You're going to need the wire harness too for the shifter and some basic electrical experience with wiring.
Firerunner posted the part number FL3Z-14A318F for the wire harness looks to be about $35ish depending on where you buy it from Ford. I would buy the correct harness for whatever year you have using a VIN from the same year truck you have with a floor shift. Those can be found on sites like Cars.Com or Autotrader.com
All the signals are on the column, you just have to have a basic understanding of the circuits.
See this post.
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/how-2...2/#post5540903
We might have to take this to a PM after all because I don't want to turn this into a parts marketing thread.
Mike
Last edited by OCMike; Dec 23, 2018 at 09:40 PM.
I received a PM from a member that's having issues getting his truck out of park after installing the floor shift. I'm going to put my reply to him in this thread hoping it might help others in the future.
I think he might have something messed up with the part that completes the circuit when you press the brake pedal to get the truck out of park. All the wires from the floor shift must be ran up to the steering column. Don't try to complete any circuits in the console, it probably won't work if you do.
If I remember correctly the first step in getting it working was get the button on the floor shift to work. Take the column shift put it on a bench or table and find the 2 wires for the switch that you get continuity when you pull the column shift towards you. Those are wires go to the button on the front of floor shift use an ohm meter to find them. When you get them right you will hear a relay click under the dash with the truck shut off, even without the key in the ignition.
Next on the column shift with an ohm meter find the solenoid connections, it won't read a dead short, I can't remember how many ohms, you should be able to see the wires going to the coil and that will help. If you have a 12 volt dc power source verify you have the correct wires that pull the solenoid in that allows the column shift to come out of park. Do this both on the column and the floor shift. MAKE SURE THE TRUCK IS ON A LEVEL SURFACE WITH THE WHEELS BLOCKED SO IT DOESN'T ROLL WHEN YOU TAKE IT OUT OF PARK.
Connect the wires we found above in the steering column to the solenoid on the floor shift. When you get it right the button on the floor shift lever will not depress until the ignition is on and the brake depressed. You should then be able to get the truck out of park.
BTW there is a hack that allows you to get the truck out of park should the electrical circuits fail, in the case of a dead battery. There is small panel under the console trim that allows you to reach in with your fingers and press down a white lever that will allow the truck to come out of park.
Hope this helps.
Mike
I think he might have something messed up with the part that completes the circuit when you press the brake pedal to get the truck out of park. All the wires from the floor shift must be ran up to the steering column. Don't try to complete any circuits in the console, it probably won't work if you do.
If I remember correctly the first step in getting it working was get the button on the floor shift to work. Take the column shift put it on a bench or table and find the 2 wires for the switch that you get continuity when you pull the column shift towards you. Those are wires go to the button on the front of floor shift use an ohm meter to find them. When you get them right you will hear a relay click under the dash with the truck shut off, even without the key in the ignition.
Next on the column shift with an ohm meter find the solenoid connections, it won't read a dead short, I can't remember how many ohms, you should be able to see the wires going to the coil and that will help. If you have a 12 volt dc power source verify you have the correct wires that pull the solenoid in that allows the column shift to come out of park. Do this both on the column and the floor shift. MAKE SURE THE TRUCK IS ON A LEVEL SURFACE WITH THE WHEELS BLOCKED SO IT DOESN'T ROLL WHEN YOU TAKE IT OUT OF PARK.
Connect the wires we found above in the steering column to the solenoid on the floor shift. When you get it right the button on the floor shift lever will not depress until the ignition is on and the brake depressed. You should then be able to get the truck out of park.
BTW there is a hack that allows you to get the truck out of park should the electrical circuits fail, in the case of a dead battery. There is small panel under the console trim that allows you to reach in with your fingers and press down a white lever that will allow the truck to come out of park.
Hope this helps.
Mike
Last edited by OCMike; Jan 1, 2019 at 01:58 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 263
Likes: 37
I received a PM from a member that's having issues getting his truck out of park after installing the floor shift. I'm going to put my reply to him in this thread hoping it might help others in the future.
I think he might have something messed up with the part that completes the circuit when you press the brake pedal to get the truck out of park. All the wires from the floor shift must be ran up to the steering column. Don't try to complete any circuits in the console, it probably won't work if you do.
If I remember correctly the first step in getting it working was get the button on the floor shift to work. Take the column shift put it on a bench or table and find the 2 wires for the switch that you get continuity when you pull the column shift towards you. Those are wires go to the button on the front of floor shift use an ohm meter to find them. When you get them right you will hear a relay click under the dash with the truck shut off, even without the key in the ignition.
Next on the column shift with an ohm meter find the solenoid connections, it won't read a dead short, I can't remember how many ohms, you should be able to see the wires going to the coil and that will help. If you have a 12 volt dc power source verify you have the correct wires that pull the solenoid in that allows the column shift to come out of park. Do this both on the column and the floor shift. MAKE SURE THE TRUCK IS ON A LEVEL SURFACE WITH THE WHEELS BLOCKED SO IT DOESN'T ROLL WHEN YOU TAKE IT OUT OF PARK.
Connect the wires we found above in the steering column to the solenoid on the floor shift. When you get it right the button on the floor shift lever will not depress until the ignition is on and the brake depressed. You should then be able to get the truck out of park.
BTW there is a hack that allows you to get the truck out of park should the electrical circuits fail, on in the case of a dead battery. There is small panel under the console trim that allows you to reach in with your fingers and press down a white lever that will allow the truck to come out of park.
Hope this helps.
Mike
I think he might have something messed up with the part that completes the circuit when you press the brake pedal to get the truck out of park. All the wires from the floor shift must be ran up to the steering column. Don't try to complete any circuits in the console, it probably won't work if you do.
If I remember correctly the first step in getting it working was get the button on the floor shift to work. Take the column shift put it on a bench or table and find the 2 wires for the switch that you get continuity when you pull the column shift towards you. Those are wires go to the button on the front of floor shift use an ohm meter to find them. When you get them right you will hear a relay click under the dash with the truck shut off, even without the key in the ignition.
Next on the column shift with an ohm meter find the solenoid connections, it won't read a dead short, I can't remember how many ohms, you should be able to see the wires going to the coil and that will help. If you have a 12 volt dc power source verify you have the correct wires that pull the solenoid in that allows the column shift to come out of park. Do this both on the column and the floor shift. MAKE SURE THE TRUCK IS ON A LEVEL SURFACE WITH THE WHEELS BLOCKED SO IT DOESN'T ROLL WHEN YOU TAKE IT OUT OF PARK.
Connect the wires we found above in the steering column to the solenoid on the floor shift. When you get it right the button on the floor shift lever will not depress until the ignition is on and the brake depressed. You should then be able to get the truck out of park.
BTW there is a hack that allows you to get the truck out of park should the electrical circuits fail, on in the case of a dead battery. There is small panel under the console trim that allows you to reach in with your fingers and press down a white lever that will allow the truck to come out of park.
Hope this helps.
Mike
Last edited by actfitwil; Jan 1, 2019 at 02:03 PM.
I thank you for your post and for responding to my questions. Looking at your post It seems as this would be instructions for splicing into the harness if I read that correct, In my case, i replaced the dash harness with a harness that is populated with all the correct connectors to activate the solenoid. So I am confused at why I would need to splice into any of the harnesses? Unless I have missed a connector at the steering wheel which is possible.
Do you hear a relay click under the dash when you press the button on the floor shift with the key out and ignition off?
This is an XL or XLT with a regular key correct?
Mike
Last edited by OCMike; Jan 1, 2019 at 02:36 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1
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Daunting
I need 6 pass seating, but all the trim levels I want are 5 pass trucks. Looking strongly at the 2010-2012 years. I converted a 98 Expy to a ZF-6, this shouldn't be daunting... but it feels that way. Any guidance to threads that have gone the other way, e.g. Cosole shift to Column shift?
5 Year Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 28
Likes: 3
From: Arlington TX
Legion of Doom
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 593
Likes: 354
From: Westerly, RI
I am starting to gather the parts to do this conversion...I am just trying to decide if I want to have the shop where I work do the dash pad TSB on my truck and before it goes back together I will install a main harness for a floor shift truck similar to mine, and of course the shifter and related parts.
Or
I could modify my main harness to work with the floor shift conversion because I don’t know if I want someone to tear almost the whole interior out of my truck!...we’ll see
Or
I could modify my main harness to work with the floor shift conversion because I don’t know if I want someone to tear almost the whole interior out of my truck!...we’ll see
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 12
Likes: 2
From: Oklahoma City, Ok
Do you still have the connectors that are attached to your old column shifter? The ones that were cut from your dash harness that are still attached to the shifter in this photo? I am looking at having a plug and play harness made and think those 2 connectors would do it.