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Looking at the plugs on that generator, it is set up for North American and Europe/Australia (240V). Brew, look at the European wiring to USA wiring charts and you will be able to wire it correctly to the 4 wire plug.
Notice that they left leg 2 off the first picture for the run.
Well shoot, I didn't see this post until just now. Your pics didn't repost, it's post # 3920 Jp if you didn't see them. Hope Jp seen them. Good diagrams
It's also a good one for me to save, I'm wiring in a 14-50R set up...yea, that might come in handy AK. Haha, the dealership gave me a discount parts card. With their discount, they want 1200 for the cord I making for 400 using better materials....mannn lol
Ak, i dont see an issue- there are only so many options with older vehicles sometimes- we have all dealt with op's who dont understand this-
Marty has put up with much worse than that- especially with us on the tater thread!- (it gets a bit off the wall sometimes, but they are friendly little barbs!)- maybe Marty was having a short day?- im where ill look over a post, maybe reply, but if the op dont get it- there is not much more i can do- tell them good luck and watch from a distance- stay close man, we enjoy your company- ( .....and crave your knowledge)
I got the old garage cleaned up a bit today. I decided I am going to keep most of my stuff in my shop/shed as far as tools are concerned. But I do need some things right handy in the garage, lol. So I also bought a new box from HF.... it's OK, but not as good as the red boxes.
Also installed two more shop lights today. Might do one more set still.....
Then I got to thinkin' - My little Yaris needs a subwoofer. I had everything but a toggle switch on hand... so I will order some to have kicking around. They are handy to have around.
This little puppy is what you call a cheater amp. Rated at 100W RMS @ 4 ohms, but I've seen them test out at over 200W RMS. Great little USA made amps.
I put this Audiobahn downward firing 10" sub in it. Sounds pretty dang good.
Anyone here good with paint? Not my strong suit... looking to paint the oil pan on my highboy and make it last. Don't want oil/gas or routine driving to ruin it
Should I clear coat that paint? Cz I used duplicolor engine enamel and was told I didn't need to clear since it was a single stage but it chips really easy and when I was rebuilding my carb gas ate thru it on my intake manifold before I could even wipe it up.
Edit* you're the second person to recommend VHT so maybe it's time I venture to the other side of the brand pond lol
JP how are you weathering the storm ? Looks like the eye/center is tracking south of you. But it seems the way this thing is spinning, you guys are going to get some surge. It's pulling the ocean toward you
At this point, they are reporting 10 feet of surge.
My brother , just outside of Miami is fine so far. Had his home built there 2 years ago, I guess they build them somewhat hurricane proof. It's most likely code there. Not sure what they do, I've heard of Hurricane straps. They are probably built to withstand higher winds...nothings title wave proof lol.
Anyway hope you are far enough inland this time. I know the last time you weren't and that wasn't too long ago. It took your home if I remember correctly....or you had to rebuild anyway. Had to load up the F150 and head for higher ground. Hope you don't have to go through that again, specially so soon!
Honestly 2100, when I do an engine, I go to the engine parts supplier and get their paint for rebuilding. They (locally) have an engine rebuilders grey, than once put down, you can respray any color and it won't heat and burn, but gas will still discolor anything except automotive actual paint.
I had NAPA make me 2 cans of Ford Blue engine color and it's been one one engine 8 years so far and still bright and shiny. Just a thought for you.
Can't you use engine paint for the pan ? They mix it in standard colors and stock it on the shelf. Not all that much heat, unless your talking manifolds/exhaust. As with anything auto, good prep (have it blasted) / mix the primer, put it down, mix the base/color and shoot at least 3, then clear if the clear is separate.
Not many will do all unless you going for showroom. I'd probably just clean and scuff, then clean again, let it dry then shoot it.