Anaerobic sealer is what you would use, no skim or dry time.


Anaerobic sealer is a type of adhesive or gasketing material that cures in the absence of air or oxygen and in the presence of metal. It is used for fastening and sealing applications that require a tight and leak-proof seal between mating flanges or cylindrical parts. Anaerobic sealer can fixture in minutes at room temperature and fully cure within 24 hours

 

Bill, I really don't understand the explanation - but thanks. There's no need for any of that.

 

On the motor in my '03, I had to pull the water pump twice for a leaky gasket. On repair #2, I noticed the block casting had some pits/voids where it was machined to accept the water pump. I smoothed the area as best I could with emery cloth and fine-grit sandpaper before reassembly. When I had to pull it a third time, gray RTV was brought into the mix, and not a bit of dripping or seepage since.

This is a case where RTV isn't called for, but was necessary (and effective) due to the specific circumstances.

 

Thank you gents. Was not sure how well the ribbed gaskets did in a pitting situation w pits maybe 20-25 thou deep. This young mechanic opted automatically to fill them in, but add no extra. Seems ok. Seema ok, and am assuming a 20-60 psi pressure zone around an oil sensor housing, as the pressure sensor port is a part of it.

Soon, I'll "fix" that oem switch to be a real gauge, but look oem. No decision yet on how I will calibrate it. 20-40-60 would satisfy. I'll use the 80 psi, not 100 psi option.

 

Right . Perm liquid metal for pits and cavities. Worked great for water jacket pitts and cavities for the 5four aluminum heads. Damn electrolysis.

Anaerobic pretty much everywhere..has many uses.

Blue and the Red, -
Best stuff made imo,,never fails - from loctite/henkel , -
It's pricey though.

Newer favorite...a better grey formulation, -



I used that stuff to repair the bottom section transmission dip stick tube. E4OD/4R100. Failed to locate the replacement section (it's the piece with goofy o-rings that seals it in the housing) Used that stuff after cleaning the area very well...that was 2018, it hasn't leaked yet.

Rambling I know, these formulations are no joke and have really worked well from my experience.

 

[QUOTE JBrew] Rambling I know, these formulations are no joke and have really worked well from my experience.[/QUOTE]

Giving surrounding info - not rambling, except by strict definition. It was all good w me, & I fully appreciate it.

 

Brings to mind, just ordered a pair of sacrificial anodes for my.oldER vet pal's 6 gal trailer water heater... 2/$20 w a whole cleaning kit. Boats have these. Why not hang one from a radiator cap? Well, no, it's merely in the reservoir. But somewhere? Somehow? Miniscule improvements can make life nicer. What if I had not seen the oil housing pitting for another decade?

And, this is oil, not water, now that I think of it. Why is IT pitting?!?

 

I've never seen oil pit metal. Only coolant... and grounding the radiator is usually the best fix for that. I may be doing that with this side job I'm doing on a Ranger. We finished the 6L90 tonight, I've got an Ecoboost plug job tomorrow... then the Ranger. Also have a Ranger coming in for a trans possibly this weekend... depending on the weather.

 

V interested in hearing about the Ranger trans.

 

Right, see the dark areas around the water jackets. Cavities due to electrolysis were 1/8" deep. Repaired w/Permetex liquid metal filler back in 2006. The repair held.



It occurred after the first coolant service. Didn't do it right. Fortunately flushing the block free from contaminants fixed the issue. Lesson learned, iron/calcium fortified well water will compromise the cooling system.