Thanks white, your vids are done well, professional. Don't think I'll ever forget the fly on the lip episode..a favorite. Very smart not to cut that imo....and hilarious of course lol.

I'll see what I can do with the free version of Clip Champ, then go from there. Take a look at Filmora for now so I have something to compare too. Some of this stuff should come back to me I expect.

 

Thanks Brew! I just looked at the current version I'm on for Filmora. It is version 12.4.7 now. There were a lot of people that liked 9 a lot, and have stayed there. I've let mine update whenever it wants to.


EDIT: Last night I went to edit some more of my "Ultrasonic Cleaner" video, and the frequency that the cleaner runs at REALLY distorts the mic on my camera. Thought about overdubbing it, but I think it's possibly easier to just do a new video, lol.

About to take off for the day.... got that 1970 Mach 1 back today. In for a tune.... it's off so much that the motor isn't producing enough vacuum for the modulator on the trans.

 

I had Blackstone test my coolant and my oil (which took for-ev-er): both are free of combustion contamination, so I'm about to do a super-deep flush to try and get the rest of this rust out.

My parking brake needs attention. No matter how hard I press it, it just won't hold. The shoes only have like 7kmi on them, so it should just be an adjustment, but I might have to replace those, too.

It will be time for an oil change in September, and this time I need to do the oil pressure sensor, and I intend to do a remote filter kit. Anyone have a recommendation on the kit?

 

Got the 70 running like a top. We originally thought it had a C4 in it, but it's actually an FMX. Might be buying an AOD from another friend for the 70. If he doesn't want it... maybe it goes in Frankie? They are getting the case P/N off the AODfor me. If it's an E9 case, I'm all over it.

 

These parking brakes are a b!tch. Your best bet is to disassemble everything, take the scissor actuators apart, wire wheel them clean and add never-seize on all the contact points. Make sure your cables are moving freely, reassemble the brakes, then adjust them until they start to drag when the disc/drum is turned by hand. With the vehicle still up on stands, I put the truck in drive, tip in some throttle, and tighten up the side that breaks loose first. At some point you'll give it the gas and neither will slip. Not the most scientific method, but it seems to work for me.

 

I'll do that next time. This time, I just pulled the rotors and turned the adjuster. I have a measuring tool, so I used that to set it. They were definitely out of adjustment - the pedal only goes down half as far. I'm in the middle of draining coolant, so I haven't test driven it yet, but I'm pretty sure that's a job done.

My coolant looks as bad as it did last year.

 

Got a package in the mail yesterday.


I saw on Motive Products site that they make the adapter sets in aluminum, but figure since I am retired, I won't be using them every day. If one wears out, I'll replace it with the aluminum version.

 

That's an exaggeration. It's brown, but not nearly as brown.

 

I bought the aluminum one, its sitting here waiting for the 100 degree days to go away!

 

I love that bleeder! One of the best tools I've bought lately.