When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm going to go get the SN95 stuff today (rear disc and wider axles). I'm going to also see how feasible it is to actually upgrade to S197 disc from there. My Buddy put GT350 brakes on his 05 GT, and he said whatever I can use/want is up for grabs.
Picked it all up.... and also chatted a while about his Capri with a 351. He told me that he wishes he would have known years ago that the difference was so drastic. He had a 3.55 in it, which he felt was too low. He put in a 3.08, and he things a 3.27 or 3.31 would have been better. So, that makes me happy about my plans of a 3.31 in mine. He's also running a stock V6 T5, and says it's been going strong for 4 years. He's having some custom park brake cables made to sell - and said he'll hook me up, and he is also having someone build him brake line kits for them that are made from stainless. That was something I'd never thought of before - sounds intriguing.
Is the windshield sealed by virtue of the rubber gasketing or by the glue? I noticed the top rubber "seal" is not fixed in place, but I also don't see any evidence of leaking.
I also saw this line of surface rust up on the roof - what should I do about this? POR-15 seems a little overkill, doesn't it?
The Butyl rubber adhesive is the sealing agent for the windshield. The rubber trim is just that.
As for that rusty line in the seam sealer, I used rust converter on it and other rust spots before shooting the entire roof with semi-gloss black paint. In your case, some rust converter and then a fresh shot paint over that seam sealer might be all you need, but if you want to be sure you're not just sealing in more hidden rust, removing the swam sealer and redoing it would be the 100%-sure method.