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Ok, so maybe I shouldn't have bought a fancy scan tool. Maybe there's is bliss in ignorance, lol. Along with the CEL that pooped up the other day that was simply a Cyl4 misfire and a P0100, The scantool found faults in multiple systems, to include my GEM, Wipers, dash. lamps, door sensors, and ABS. This is going to be a fun couple weeks. All I wanted to fix were the things that left my stranded and the embarrassing exhaust leaks, lol. Today I'm just waiting on my exhaust to arrive and I might make some battery cables.
IGTOFTS
Some of those could be nothing, if you've been working on it. I had about a dozen codes, in the GEM and elsewhere, because I reconnected the battery with stuff unplugged to install my radio and e-fan. Cleared them and they were gone for good. The computer does self checks and stores codes when things are disconnected.
I thought for sure I replied earlier.. Yes, P1000. Probably Not a big deal. I haven't been on a long drive in a while. I'll run through the procedure when I'm done tomorrow.
I thought for sure I replied earlier.. Yes, P1000. Probably Not a big deal. I have been on a long drive in a while. I'll run through the procedure when I'm done tomorrow.
Yea, not all the monitors have completed yet..it's the emissions system testing that takes awhile. Or rediness monitors/ drivecycle ~ P1000. It'll disappear once complete.
If you run the truck up to 60 under normal acceleration (doesn't matter how long at 60) and then come to a complete stop a few times, then maybe jump on the expressway and bring it up to 70, cruise for a mile or so....the 1000 should disappear. If it's keeping the MIL illuminated, that will go out as well. Some years the MIL lights for 1000, some don't.
When I had a three-fingers-thick, dry-aged, reverse-seared ribeye after half a year of no real food, I felt just like California Husband in this video.
I always check the oil before changing it.
A few times I have saved the customer money because their spouse had it done already, and it was new clean oil.
But not this time, I bet only 2-2.5 qts. comes out after the filter drains.
Looks like it's leaking from this pic and what my driveway looks like.
Everything is covered in oil and I can't tell laying on my back where it originates.
Looks like the front valve cover is dry and so is the back of the intake.
The front of the intake is wet, but the P.S. pump is right there and could be seeping or had been spilled.
I think the majority is the oil pan.
And if I am right you have to drop the front frame section and support the engine and trans from the top to change the oil pan.
Not something I'm doing on my back in the garage.
So I told him he has a leak, check it often.
And I will give him the shop # where I used to work incase he wants to fix it.
It's kinda rough and he drives it to and from work and works nights.
I bet he just adds oil to it, I imagine it's an oil slick where it parks.
It trashed my driveway overnight.
Last edited by Phil48315; Oct 8, 2022 at 07:25 PM.
Both 304 and 354. I seated the pigtail onto the coil and then let the truck idle under load today while watching the misfire bar graph and it seemed normal. I have new pigtails so I'll replace the busted ones tomorrow after I finish up the fan wiring.
And Thanks I'll try it that way first.
Originally Posted by Jbrew
Which cylinder 4 misfire code did you get..304 or 354 ?
Originally Posted by Jbrew
If you run the truck up to 60 under normal acceleration (doesn't matter how long at 60) and then come to a complete stop a few times, then maybe jump on the expressway and bring it up to 70, cruise for a mile or so....the 1000 should disappear. If it's keeping the MIL illuminated, that will go out as well. Some years the MIL lights for 1000, some don't.
Originally Posted by Jbrew
You can also do it the Ford Company Drive Cycle way, try the short cut first...it works with the 98.
Crap, now I'm late lol.
After stepping up and down on a stool all day today to reach into the engine bay, I think I'll be glad when I lower the truck back down. :P