Back when I used to play in the mud in an old 92 GMC Z71 and a buddy in his 01 Chevy Z71, we bought store brand CV shafts for our trucks with lifetime warranties and we would just return and replace them. We eventually outgrew that and I have no intention of mudding my F150. I bought Motorcraft CVs for it a few months ago and installed them a few weeks ago. The Motorcraft pieces are definitely a much higher quality part.

 

What the hell people will do and buy ?

You know, Some days I just want to live in the wilderness so I don't need to meet the people who paid $500 for this.


Here is a pic of my F150 just to stay on topic and bring happy thoughts.


No Duralast stuff on this truck.

 

What in hells name did I just read? We walk among these people? My goodness....

So... as I recall, the pinion nut for an 8.8 is a 1 1/16" socket. I must have borrowed mine out... I can't find it. Went to HF to try and get one, and they didn't have any - but they did have a 27mm - which I think will work just fine.

I've done a crap ton of research on this thing... mixed emotions. I've always thought that when I do this, I'd just count the threads, and mark the pinion nut. Then go 1/8 turn past the marks on the nut. Then I start reading about measuring the drag to set it.... and some guys just say to torque it to 160 lb. ft. Hell... I dunno, lol.

 

At my local hospital system there are 36 patients in ICU 16 are unvaxxed, 14 have had at least one shot, and 6 have had the booster. I'm not sure how I feel about those numbers but this is starting to feel like the never-ending story.

Ps: has anyone had any luck with aftermarket resonators? When I'm towing the drone is just no fun at all and I really don't want to rework the whole system.

 

Talked to my sister tonight... she is fairly certain she has it. Her BIL tested positive just two days after spending a couple of hours over at their house. She has periods of feeling fine, then will get flu like symptoms, achy joints, etc. for a little period of time, then it's gone again.

JP, are you talking about the resonator that resembles the letter "J"? I've heard good things - but no experience.

 

No one in the family has caught it yet fortunately. My grandson whom has visitation with his father every other weekend, his father and girlfriend came down with it two months ago. So there was a good chance we were exposed for sure, but luckily it missed us. This stuff is no joke, take care of yourselves and think of others ...please.

 

I've always measured drag with torque wrench.
9" was very easy at this. No shims, if I mess it up I can fix it with the adjusters in the axle.
I've never messed with an 8.8 . Paid a person to do it on mine about a year ago. Only $220 or $230 and I got all new Timken wheel bearings, Timken pinion bearings, Reused the NTN? dif bearings, and all new Timken seals. He already had all the shims. Took less than an hour on the lift. said my clutches looked fine and the dif bearings looked like new. Gear had some wear but it is quiet so I don't care.


Per this page https://www.strangeengineering.net/f...-torque-specs/
Tighten nut until it takes 15-20 inch lbs of torque to rotate the pinion bearings

 

Are you just replacing the seal or the outer bearing also while you are in there? If so, don't forget the crush collar. If it was me, I would do the bearing while there.

 

I was thinking more along the lines of a straight through bullet style but if the j style is better then I will definitely look into those. When I lockout OD towing it is just way too hummy... is that a word... lol

 

I am not planing on replacing the bearing unless it's obviously bad. My goal is just to make this thing stop leaking until the weather is better. I have a LSD carrier for it, and I am debating on switching to 3.73's for it - as I also have a set of 3.73's sitting here. I just need to get a front with a 3.73 in it.