I think I've tried the hardest to keep this thread on track, wouldn't you's agree?

After 3 months I've finally destroyed the Zu es Vir us on my W10 machine. Was able to save everything.. Sorry, - still a little thrilled....a lot of stuff on that drive which was irreplaceable. Lesson learned, I'll backup more often lol.

 

Attention thinkers. I found in a pile of receipts from the previous owner that he had been using 10w40 and 20w50 oil in my truck since it was brand new up until I bought it at 125k miles. I'm sure this would cause it to wear strangely? I'm getting oily residue all over my tailgate and the front of my trailer when I pull it. Truck goes through a quart of oil every 1k miles. I'm assuming this isn't a coincidence. Has only 160k miles now but I believe the motor may be coming to the end of its life....anyone wanna weigh in? Confirm my theory?

 

Sounds more like a leak than burning

 

He said tailgate right ?

 

Zebra.....Have you got a rear main seal leaking or back of a valve cover dropping oil down and under the truck. How about the filter or lines if remote leaking? I agree with Badass, sounds more like a leak than a burn.

 

That or.. could be the pan gasket or pan itself (they rust right at the very front). Could be trans, -hose,line or tail shaft seal as well.

I know one thing, I would find out where it was coming from...how would you not know unless you haven't looked lol.

 

I've had for a couple years a new white faced full gauge panel and a stainless steel insert that I think I'm thinking about putting it into my spare speedometer setup and into lil Red. I'm not sure on the Stainless panel yet, but the white faces will be nice. I've got LED's to install anyways, so it would be easy to just set the speedometer correct and reinstall it as a complete set up. That way it would be a quick cluster swap, and not having the down time for the speedo/odometer gears to be installed and reset with LED's etc. I still have the clock spring from the Navigator to install, so I guess this would be the ideal time to do it. The cluster is out, everything is open to get to, why not? That way everything gets done at one time, and I don't have to go back into the dash again for a while.

What is left to do this spring, SO FAR. All parts sitting on the floor waiting for warm weather. lol

Slider window replace with new trim surround.
Replace both front wheel bearing with 14mm studded hubs.
Replace front brakes with the Expy set up.
Replace rear shocks
Replace exhaust with the Gibson set up.
Replace rear brake pads
Repair small crack in bed sides.
Replace front seats with the Expy's.
Replace Sony head with Android DD
Install 30 inch 2row LED curved lightbar for behind the grille, and 2 mini's as back up lights.
Add interior dash and underseat RGB LED's
Install left side outside door handle with key pad.

I have the Expy motor rolled over and checked. The 3 and 7 rods were into the copper, but the crank isn't damaged or scored, so after getting out the mic, .001 or 002 will clean them up fine. I'm going to get the 001. and check the measurements first. If it's too much, I'll go ahead and order the 2 002's. They are special order for us up here. Up here we only have std, 001 and 010 in stock for the mod motors. It will be ready for lil Red if I decide I want to go that route in the spring. It would be nice to have the PI heads and late design intake system. Note. I am rolling a full set of bearing, both rod and mains into this engine. I'm just getting things all scoped out and then I'll know exactly what I want to do and how. Damn, this motor is so clean inside. Trying to figure why those 2 cylinders decided to wear so much and not the others. I'm going to replace the front pump (oil) while I'm in there. Something caused the wear.

 

I have dual exhaust that exits under my rear bumper. I get the residue all over my bumper and tailgate and the front of my trailer when I pull that. It's a nasty black residue. No leaks at all. Double and triple checked. No oil anywhere. I've looked.

 

Zebra...If you are getting that much carbon/residue all over, then your engine has one or two cylinders that are very weak. That could be either the head or the cylinder itself.

Just for s&g's, have you ever done a comp test on this engine? if you have single into dual exhaust, you couldn't tell from just a visual, so it looks like you need to check a bit deeper. I would hate to see the condition of the cats, if this is what is actually causing the problem.

 

I was gonna buy a compression tester at Sears the other day but they're a bit pricey. Probably will order one soon. I'll check it when I have the intake off to put the blower on it lol. Gonna pick up a stock longblock shortly and build it when I have time. Hopefully the truck won't blow up in that time frame and if it does, I'll already have that motor for it anyways if I need some more time. It definitely needs a motor and trans rebuild bc I have a feeling that they're both getting pretty weak now. If I tear into the engine and see that it has been burning a lot of oil, I'll go ahead and replace the cats at the same time as well. Any bets on how long my current motor will last under boost? Lol