Did you have the key in the new switch when you installed it?

AK, are you sure about the key programming? Isn't it the PATS transceiver module ring that the switch slips through what reads the key code?

 

I dont know if you guys are confusing the lock cylinder with the ignition switch or if im not understanding you guys... but I didnt think this piece needed to be programmed?
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...rd/f-150?pos=2

Thats what I replaced and couldnt get the truck to do anything.

 

You're right. I'm saying switch when I mean lock cylinder. The lock cylinder slips through the PATS transceiver module ring which reads the key code.

 

Did you replace the cylinder and get a new key? If so that's what AK is talking about. That pic looked like it was still the old one...

 

I have not replaced the cylinder or the key. You are correct white, that is the original key and lock cylinder. The ignition switch (plastic box under steering column) is the only part I have replaced. It then wouldnt even crank so I put the old box in and now im back to my original problems.

Also jbrew havent forgotten about your suggestion lol My fuel pressure gauge is still packed up from the move so im just waiting till i have some time to hit up the local parts store to rent one.

 

Oh, you needed a key, it's just that my POV's key would start the van just as well as the correct one would.
..

 

The key is specific signaled to the PCM thru the transceiver. The key must be programmed to fit the application. You can swap the cylinder out of a new lock and put it into a new one and keep the same key. Otherwise, the key has to be programmed to match what it sees.

 

as figured by everyone, new part didnt help but hey at least its fixed. Did some more troubleshooting, fuel pressure gauge didnt move at all when trying to start. Stayed on zero. Had 12volts across inertia switch while cranking, had 12 volts across fuel pump plug while cranking... leads me to believe its the fuel pump.

PS kudos to akdoggie, messaged him a few times while under the truck and he helped out.

Might not get to the pump until monday but Ill let yall know what happens.

 

Glad to hear you're getting it narrowed down. Since you said you hear the pump priming, my bet is you'll find the hose between the pump and the hat is split. BTDT. (That's how I got so good at dropping the tank on my Mustang.)

 

Anyway, yep, I guess that's why they say "Fuel First". Glad it worked out for yuh.

Those were some strange codes for a spent fuel pump eh. Actually that broken piece on the the lock cylinder housing may have been the cause of that.

That said, you still have some ground issues...better take care of those as well.

If you want to get rid of ground issues for good, brush in "A SPECIAL" to clean clean metal bits. It's conductive single circuit grease. Perfect for battery posts and grounds. For close quarters isolated group circuitry, like say the starter connections, go with the non conductive 3M Dielectric. That stuff won't solidify, doesn't wash easy and keeps the connections encapsulated.

I recall the starter connections on the 98 corroding up every winter. way back when....PITA. The 3M stuff was the only dielectric that wouldn't wash off thru the winter....it's a little pricey, -worth it imo. It took care of the problem.

But yea, those are the only two products that I've used in the past that actually stick around and work very well.