Thinking
The main ehh. So it's definitely oil, not a chance it could be trans fluid ?
If it's been sitting, that leak just may go away on it's own. I'm sure your aware once they have been stationary for 3 months plus, leaks can develop that aren't necessarily permanent if driven. I've seen more than a few, all makes do that over the years. Mains , trans, difs, they can all do that. The 98's trans will do it here. Takes about 4 months if I don't drive her the trans will start to leach a bit a fluid. If I drove her once a week, wouldn't leak a drop. Anyway, something to keep in mind. I might put it in service or use it first before determining a leaky main. Not to mention, it's not common with those miles.
If it's been sitting, that leak just may go away on it's own. I'm sure your aware once they have been stationary for 3 months plus, leaks can develop that aren't necessarily permanent if driven. I've seen more than a few, all makes do that over the years. Mains , trans, difs, they can all do that. The 98's trans will do it here. Takes about 4 months if I don't drive her the trans will start to leach a bit a fluid. If I drove her once a week, wouldn't leak a drop. Anyway, something to keep in mind. I might put it in service or use it first before determining a leaky main. Not to mention, it's not common with those miles.
Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer. Autozone has it up here now. I used to have to order it when it first came out. Used it on a 351W that was pouring out and within 70 miles it totally quit. It works great as long as the seal isn't cracked or broken out.
The main ehh. So it's definitely oil, not a chance it could be trans fluid ?
If it's been sitting, that leak just may go away on it's own. I'm sure your aware once they have been stationary for 3 months plus, leaks can develop that aren't necessarily permanent if driven. I've seen more than a few, all makes do that over the years. Mains , trans, difs, they can all do that. The 98's trans will do it here. Takes about 4 months if I don't drive her the trans will start to leach a bit a fluid. If I drove her once a week, wouldn't leak a drop. Anyway, something to keep in mind. I might put it in service or use it first before determining a leaky main. Not to mention, it's not common with those miles.
It has sat for 13 months. The owner was out of state and that's how it got broken into. When he got back it has 3 broken windows (2 sides and one of the slider sides). He replace the windows and put in a privacy rear glass. I'll change that when I find a slider. That is the least of my worries at this moment. It will have one before the summer is over though. lol They cut up the seat to get to an amp under the right side. Lariat leather. What a waste of the backs. The bottoms were already damaged like normally they are.
He got it back together then when he was driving, lost the rear end. No fluids were in the carrier when I pulled the cover today. Front seal was out of the nose, riding up on the flange. I decided there and then that it was replacement time. Luckily I found a guy who had a rear end and everything in one place and for a really good price.
That is what I was saying about the leak. It didn't do it when it was first running but came on later after some time of idling. Fords are very susceptible to rear main leaks after sitting, as you stated. The worst I ever saw was the rope seal Buicks. Those darn things were 'road oilers'. lol Thanks for reminding people that a sitting engine will tend to leak sometimes if they sit too long without use or start ups.
The main ehh. So it's definitely oil, not a chance it could be trans fluid ?
If it's been sitting, that leak just may go away on it's own. I'm sure your aware once they have been stationary for 3 months plus, leaks can develop that aren't necessarily permanent if driven. I've seen more than a few, all makes do that over the years. Mains , trans, difs, they can all do that. The 98's trans will do it here. Takes about 4 months if I don't drive her the trans will start to leach a bit a fluid. If I drove her once a week, wouldn't leak a drop. Anyway, something to keep in mind. I might put it in service or use it first before determining a leaky main. Not to mention, it's not common with those miles.
It has sat for 13 months. The owner was out of state and that's how it got broken into. When he got back it has 3 broken windows (2 sides and one of the slider sides). He replace the windows and put in a privacy rear glass. I'll change that when I find a slider. That is the least of my worries at this moment. It will have one before the summer is over though. lol They cut up the seat to get to an amp under the right side. Lariat leather. What a waste of the backs. The bottoms were already damaged like normally they are.
He got it back together then when he was driving, lost the rear end. No fluids were in the carrier when I pulled the cover today. Front seal was out of the nose, riding up on the flange. I decided there and then that it was replacement time. Luckily I found a guy who had a rear end and everything in one place and for a really good price.
That is what I was saying about the leak. It didn't do it when it was first running but came on later after some time of idling. Fords are very susceptible to rear main leaks after sitting, as you stated. The worst I ever saw was the rope seal Buicks. Those darn things were 'road oilers'. lol Thanks for reminding people that a sitting engine will tend to leak sometimes if they sit too long without use or start ups.
Last edited by akdoggie; Jul 19, 2016 at 03:41 AM.
It is a one piece seal, so the Blue Devil should make it seal up again. That stuff is dynamite on rear mains and front seals. It seals valve cover gaskets also, as long as they are a rubber additive and not cork. Also works on sealing up leaking valve seals. Not bad stuff, but you pay a pretty fair price for it.
It is a one piece seal, so the Blue Devil should make it seal up again. That stuff is dynamite on rear mains and front seals. It seals valve cover gaskets also, as long as they are a rubber additive and not cork. Also works on sealing up leaking valve seals. Not bad stuff, but you pay a pretty fair price for it.
Haven't heard of the BD stuff, there's not much I would throw in the crank case besides what belongs... -yea,if you've had experience with it and have a built up trust.... Just wouldn't want that stuff going where it shouldn't lol.
13 months can be a long time, -any air get into the engine ? Was the oil cap present, dipstick there ? Might want to take a look at the dipstick cylinder. There's been quite a few that develop a rust hole a few inches down from the top. Usually right there where it bolts to the block. Sitting might have given it a chance to rot at that area. You'll never see it or notice unless your looking right where I'm referring to.
Anyway, I guess the seals could have dried out some. What did the oil look like ? You said it ran smooth, so no lash adjuster troubles, noise- good sign. Is it still running just as smooth ?
Iduno, you sure about that stuff lol (The Blue Devil sealer) ? For these engines ??
Last edited by Jbrew; Jul 19, 2016 at 06:40 AM.
Yes to BD. Just like BG's 44K, for carbon, I actually trust this stuff. I was introduced to it in Canada, when I went down to school to fix BigFoot campers and motorhomes. A Canadian was working on an old Pontiac 215 V6 engine that was used as a generator back up. Oil was pouring out. I was watching him go around and check everything, like he should, then he poured this stuff into the engine. About 15 minutes later, no leak anywhere. I read the label, and it is all 100% petroleum distillates, and no other chemicals.
I took a can and brought it back to AK. We had an engine used in a dirt car, that the rear always leaked on. Ford 300 6 with headers and fuel injection (factory). Nasty power. This had the 1 piece seal rear main. It took that engine and made is tight. No leaks anywhere. That sold me. Same seal material as in the 5.4/4.6.
Like I said, I can try it in this one. If the seal is cracked, then it is a pull job anyways.
I'll check the tube for the d/s this afternoon. Hadn't heard of that. Of course, we aren't as rusty as we used to be up here. lol As far as running, yes quite smooth and seems strong. No bottom or adjuster noises. The engine is quite clean with the exception of the oil cap side, where these is residue from filling/refilling oil. The oil condition, very freaking dirty. Not gritty, just black. That is draining as I type. Fram filter also. A no-no to me. No orange can Fram, ever again. Tomorrow I will do a compression test and replace the plugs, boot kits, and replace anything that is cracked or damaged from time. So far, I haven't seen any broken harness covers or much wrong under the hood, visually anyways. After 45 plus years of doing this, I think this might be my last recondition unit I do. This is for me, so you know I'll do it right. Plus I have the spare 5.4 on the pallet, waiting for a refresh. I got it when Ford switched out an engine, and it was to be a field destroy, not return. I managed to wrangle it out of being broken with a sledge. That was how we were suppose to dispose of warranty items that weren't to go back to zone. Destroy it was a sledge.
Jbrew....as far as using any additive in these motors, they are no different than any other Ford in general internal design, with different valve trains only. I know I wouldn't use it in an EcoBoost design, because of the requirement of that engine, but for a simple modular, sure. Why wouldn't an additive work as well for one model as another. The seals are all Vitrol, so the sealing properties are the same. If I was to pull it, I wouldn't go with a Factory seal. The new teflon ones are the ticket. Stronger, and less friction on the crank, yet better sealing. JMO of course. lol
And finally, the engine was sealed like it should be. I looked the engine over quite well, as well as the rest of it. Fairly tight little truck with the exception of the ripped up seats and bad rear end. Only after it ran for a while did the leak start to show up. The rear area was dry when I first looked at the truck.
I took a can and brought it back to AK. We had an engine used in a dirt car, that the rear always leaked on. Ford 300 6 with headers and fuel injection (factory). Nasty power. This had the 1 piece seal rear main. It took that engine and made is tight. No leaks anywhere. That sold me. Same seal material as in the 5.4/4.6.
Like I said, I can try it in this one. If the seal is cracked, then it is a pull job anyways.
I'll check the tube for the d/s this afternoon. Hadn't heard of that. Of course, we aren't as rusty as we used to be up here. lol As far as running, yes quite smooth and seems strong. No bottom or adjuster noises. The engine is quite clean with the exception of the oil cap side, where these is residue from filling/refilling oil. The oil condition, very freaking dirty. Not gritty, just black. That is draining as I type. Fram filter also. A no-no to me. No orange can Fram, ever again. Tomorrow I will do a compression test and replace the plugs, boot kits, and replace anything that is cracked or damaged from time. So far, I haven't seen any broken harness covers or much wrong under the hood, visually anyways. After 45 plus years of doing this, I think this might be my last recondition unit I do. This is for me, so you know I'll do it right. Plus I have the spare 5.4 on the pallet, waiting for a refresh. I got it when Ford switched out an engine, and it was to be a field destroy, not return. I managed to wrangle it out of being broken with a sledge. That was how we were suppose to dispose of warranty items that weren't to go back to zone. Destroy it was a sledge.
Jbrew....as far as using any additive in these motors, they are no different than any other Ford in general internal design, with different valve trains only. I know I wouldn't use it in an EcoBoost design, because of the requirement of that engine, but for a simple modular, sure. Why wouldn't an additive work as well for one model as another. The seals are all Vitrol, so the sealing properties are the same. If I was to pull it, I wouldn't go with a Factory seal. The new teflon ones are the ticket. Stronger, and less friction on the crank, yet better sealing. JMO of course. lol
And finally, the engine was sealed like it should be. I looked the engine over quite well, as well as the rest of it. Fairly tight little truck with the exception of the ripped up seats and bad rear end. Only after it ran for a while did the leak start to show up. The rear area was dry when I first looked at the truck.
Last edited by akdoggie; Jul 19, 2016 at 12:54 PM.
I got my seats and rear diff today. I've already cleaned the seats and they are in the truck. Looks nice. I will take the diff apart tomorrow and check everything out. I am going to replace the wheel seals, pads, fluids and front pinion seal.
I was surprised that the U-bolts came off with a battery powered Ryobi impact. The rear end was given to me with the springs and tires on it. One was another 17 inch crescent like is on my truck right now. I left the springs and took the wheel. lol
The guy also gave me his rear window surround. It's perfect and still black. He also gave me the rear bumper off the truck. Mine has a small wow in it, and the replacement is perfect. Worked out well going to his place for parts. lol All this for $300. I'm doing my best to keep the costs down and yet get what I need.
I was surprised that the U-bolts came off with a battery powered Ryobi impact. The rear end was given to me with the springs and tires on it. One was another 17 inch crescent like is on my truck right now. I left the springs and took the wheel. lol
The guy also gave me his rear window surround. It's perfect and still black. He also gave me the rear bumper off the truck. Mine has a small wow in it, and the replacement is perfect. Worked out well going to his place for parts. lol All this for $300. I'm doing my best to keep the costs down and yet get what I need.
I got my seats and rear diff today. I've already cleaned the seats and they are in the truck. Looks nice. I will take the diff apart tomorrow and check everything out. I am going to replace the wheel seals, pads, fluids and front pinion seal.
I was surprised that the U-bolts came off with a battery powered Ryobi impact. The rear end was given to me with the springs and tires on it. One was another 17 inch crescent like is on my truck right now. I left the springs and took the wheel. lol
The guy also gave me his rear window surround. It's perfect and still black. He also gave me the rear bumper off the truck. Mine has a small wow in it, and the replacement is perfect. Worked out well going to his place for parts. lol All this for $300. I'm doing my best to keep the costs down and yet get what I need.
I was surprised that the U-bolts came off with a battery powered Ryobi impact. The rear end was given to me with the springs and tires on it. One was another 17 inch crescent like is on my truck right now. I left the springs and took the wheel. lol
The guy also gave me his rear window surround. It's perfect and still black. He also gave me the rear bumper off the truck. Mine has a small wow in it, and the replacement is perfect. Worked out well going to his place for parts. lol All this for $300. I'm doing my best to keep the costs down and yet get what I need.
Thanks Jprevat. I hope the rest goes as well as today. I wish my back would cooperate a bit more and let me do more than what I'm able to do at one time. I can't believe I managed to take a picture in black and white. I don't even know how to do that. lol Still you guys get the idea. I'll post more pics tomorrow.








