Thinking
Thanks Jprevat. I hope the rest goes as well as today. I wish my back would cooperate a bit more and let me do more than what I'm able to do at one time. I can't believe I managed to take a picture in black and white. I don't even know how to do that. lol Still you guys get the idea. I'll post more pics tomorrow.
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,519
Likes: 7,630
From: MI
Careful in that hot sun buddy, I think it's poisonous. Worked all day in it yesterday and I feel hung over today lol. That's twice this year, - Guess I need to find work I can do from my easy chair during the frymyass season.
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,519
Likes: 7,630
From: MI
Yes to BD. Just like BG's 44K, for carbon, I actually trust this stuff. I was introduced to it in Canada, when I went down to school to fix BigFoot campers and motorhomes. A Canadian was working on an old Pontiac 215 V6 engine that was used as a generator back up. Oil was pouring out. I was watching him go around and check everything, like he should, then he poured this stuff into the engine. About 15 minutes later, no leak anywhere. I read the label, and it is all 100% petroleum distillates, and no other chemicals.
I took a can and brought it back to AK. We had an engine used in a dirt car, that the rear always leaked on. Ford 300 6 with headers and fuel injection (factory). Nasty power. This had the 1 piece seal rear main. It took that engine and made is tight. No leaks anywhere. That sold me. Same seal material as in the 5.4/4.6.
Like I said, I can try it in this one. If the seal is cracked, then it is a pull job anyways.
I'll check the tube for the d/s this afternoon. Hadn't heard of that. Of course, we aren't as rusty as we used to be up here. lol As far as running, yes quite smooth and seems strong. No bottom or adjuster noises. The engine is quite clean with the exception of the oil cap side, where these is residue from filling/refilling oil. The oil condition, very freaking dirty. Not gritty, just black. That is draining as I type. Fram filter also. A no-no to me. No orange can Fram, ever again. Tomorrow I will do a compression test and replace the plugs, boot kits, and replace anything that is cracked or damaged from time. So far, I haven't seen any broken harness covers or much wrong under the hood, visually anyways. After 45 plus years of doing this, I think this might be my last recondition unit I do. This is for me, so you know I'll do it right. Plus I have the spare 5.4 on the pallet, waiting for a refresh. I got it when Ford switched out an engine, and it was to be a field destroy, not return. I managed to wrangle it out of being broken with a sledge. That was how we were suppose to dispose of warranty items that weren't to go back to zone. Destroy it was a sledge.
Jbrew....as far as using any additive in these motors, they are no different than any other Ford in general internal design, with different valve trains only. I know I wouldn't use it in an EcoBoost design, because of the requirement of that engine, but for a simple modular, sure. Why wouldn't an additive work as well for one model as another. The seals are all Vitrol, so the sealing properties are the same. If I was to pull it, I wouldn't go with a Factory seal. The new teflon ones are the ticket. Stronger, and less friction on the crank, yet better sealing. JMO of course. lol
And finally, the engine was sealed like it should be. I looked the engine over quite well, as well as the rest of it. Fairly tight little truck with the exception of the ripped up seats and bad rear end. Only after it ran for a while did the leak start to show up. The rear area was dry when I first looked at the truck.
I took a can and brought it back to AK. We had an engine used in a dirt car, that the rear always leaked on. Ford 300 6 with headers and fuel injection (factory). Nasty power. This had the 1 piece seal rear main. It took that engine and made is tight. No leaks anywhere. That sold me. Same seal material as in the 5.4/4.6.
Like I said, I can try it in this one. If the seal is cracked, then it is a pull job anyways.
I'll check the tube for the d/s this afternoon. Hadn't heard of that. Of course, we aren't as rusty as we used to be up here. lol As far as running, yes quite smooth and seems strong. No bottom or adjuster noises. The engine is quite clean with the exception of the oil cap side, where these is residue from filling/refilling oil. The oil condition, very freaking dirty. Not gritty, just black. That is draining as I type. Fram filter also. A no-no to me. No orange can Fram, ever again. Tomorrow I will do a compression test and replace the plugs, boot kits, and replace anything that is cracked or damaged from time. So far, I haven't seen any broken harness covers or much wrong under the hood, visually anyways. After 45 plus years of doing this, I think this might be my last recondition unit I do. This is for me, so you know I'll do it right. Plus I have the spare 5.4 on the pallet, waiting for a refresh. I got it when Ford switched out an engine, and it was to be a field destroy, not return. I managed to wrangle it out of being broken with a sledge. That was how we were suppose to dispose of warranty items that weren't to go back to zone. Destroy it was a sledge.
Jbrew....as far as using any additive in these motors, they are no different than any other Ford in general internal design, with different valve trains only. I know I wouldn't use it in an EcoBoost design, because of the requirement of that engine, but for a simple modular, sure. Why wouldn't an additive work as well for one model as another. The seals are all Vitrol, so the sealing properties are the same. If I was to pull it, I wouldn't go with a Factory seal. The new teflon ones are the ticket. Stronger, and less friction on the crank, yet better sealing. JMO of course. lol
And finally, the engine was sealed like it should be. I looked the engine over quite well, as well as the rest of it. Fairly tight little truck with the exception of the ripped up seats and bad rear end. Only after it ran for a while did the leak start to show up. The rear area was dry when I first looked at the truck.
______________
Actually the dipstick tube rust isn't from the salt. I know you like to finger the MI salt, I finger it all the time...But it's positioned in a way that creates a bad spot in a bad spot next to the head, -a pocket of sorts. Normal condensation from cool nights can take tole.They rust from the outside in, in that area.
I only mentioned it because of the seal leak. The truck sat for a period of time, but not long enough to dry the seal out. The crank case sealed from the environment...air tight. For the main (seal) to go bad, seems like the crank case seal may of been compromised.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,544
Likes: 2,552
From: Alaska
Today I managed to pull my diamond pleated seat covers and put them on the red truck seats. I still need some grey lower side panels (I have camel only) for them, but other than that, her seats and floors are done. Tomorrow I get my bumper (Flaresides are the same as the SCrews). The SCabs have a different rear bumper as well as regular cab with styleside box. I'm sure glad I have my old parts books to look stuff up in. lol I'll also get my rear window trim with brake lite. That will clean up anything on the body with the exception of the damage on the rear fenders that he did, bringing it to me.
Saturday the rear end goes in. I found that the rear is 40 inches high from the ground to the center of the bottom of the flare. The fronts are at 38 inches. There are 2 in lift blocks in the rear, that are going to disappear when I slide in the new differential. This will give the truck an even look when done. I didn't realize it was that high up, until I was able to crawl under it without jacking it up. Even with my lithe body, lol
Jbrew, I'll be checking the dipstick tomorrow and will give you my findings. Like I said, I've NEVER run into that particular problem in my Ford days. I'm sure it something that is done over time, and wouldn't of showed up in the first 10 years or so.
Here is what the seats look like today. I have another center section, but didn't have time today to change it. It only takes a couple minutes to remove it I found out today. After I clean the other then I'll replace the camel one with the gray one. Right now, with the camel trim, it gives it a different offset look. None of the dark spaces are stains. It is optical look from the sun shining Covers were cleaned before install. That's what took me so damm long today. lol
Saturday the rear end goes in. I found that the rear is 40 inches high from the ground to the center of the bottom of the flare. The fronts are at 38 inches. There are 2 in lift blocks in the rear, that are going to disappear when I slide in the new differential. This will give the truck an even look when done. I didn't realize it was that high up, until I was able to crawl under it without jacking it up. Even with my lithe body, lol
Jbrew, I'll be checking the dipstick tomorrow and will give you my findings. Like I said, I've NEVER run into that particular problem in my Ford days. I'm sure it something that is done over time, and wouldn't of showed up in the first 10 years or so.
Here is what the seats look like today. I have another center section, but didn't have time today to change it. It only takes a couple minutes to remove it I found out today. After I clean the other then I'll replace the camel one with the gray one. Right now, with the camel trim, it gives it a different offset look. None of the dark spaces are stains. It is optical look from the sun shining Covers were cleaned before install. That's what took me so damm long today. lol
Last edited by akdoggie; Jul 21, 2016 at 12:35 AM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,544
Likes: 2,552
From: Alaska
Until I can get the two pieces of lower covers for the leather take outs, then these are here for a while. When I get the bottoms, I'll put back in the Lariat take outs. You are right about one thing, they are very comfortable. And in one piece. That is a major plus until I get the lower covers. The Lariats are electric ds, so I really want to find some skins for those.
In all honesty, there aren't that many good seats around that aren't damaged in some way or shape. Most have the left side outer panel ripped and the under foam, destroyed. These were sharp enough, that it made it worth using for the time being. I can always sell them when I find some skins for the other seats.
In all honesty, there aren't that many good seats around that aren't damaged in some way or shape. Most have the left side outer panel ripped and the under foam, destroyed. These were sharp enough, that it made it worth using for the time being. I can always sell them when I find some skins for the other seats.
Last edited by akdoggie; Jul 21, 2016 at 12:50 AM.
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,519
Likes: 7,630
From: MI
In all honesty, there aren't that many good seats around that aren't damaged in some way or shape. Most have the left side outer panel ripped and the under foam, destroyed. These were sharp enough, that it made it worth using for the time being. I can always sell them when I find some skins for the other seats.
Surprised you haven't located a set. I smoked in my truck long ago, not pot, worse, cigarettes. Which was a hex because I burned everything around me. So I need to swap my custom seats for an improvement.
The skins look like they're in great shape, the other ones were toast correct ? Yea, that slipped my mind.
Last edited by Jbrew; Jul 21, 2016 at 01:04 AM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,544
Likes: 2,552
From: Alaska
I can find the left bottom but it's $205 for one side. I can not find the right side anywhere. I'm afraid of how it might be considering how big it is in comparison. I may have to hold out for a set of 2004=08 seats. I haven't found any I can really afford. The local wrecking yards want 250, at least, per piece and 80 for the console if I went with the newer seats. I'll have to continue looking. That is way too much in my opinion.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,544
Likes: 2,552
From: Alaska
The guy who had this, also smoked cigarettes, and the ceiling on the left is in bad need of cleaning. That will come shortly. I can live with the odors for a while, besides it's not being driven. It can wait a few days more. lol
There are dozens of seats out here from our Gen 10's but 99% are torn up fairly bad. The ones in my Blue 98 are 100% perfect. No piping damage or anything. I've kept them covered for years. They look like they came out of the showroom, but the carpet now needs cleaned, since I did the other truck It showed how much I've neglected my Scab the past year. Time for a detail cleaning..
There are dozens of seats out here from our Gen 10's but 99% are torn up fairly bad. The ones in my Blue 98 are 100% perfect. No piping damage or anything. I've kept them covered for years. They look like they came out of the showroom, but the carpet now needs cleaned, since I did the other truck It showed how much I've neglected my Scab the past year. Time for a detail cleaning..
Last edited by akdoggie; Jul 21, 2016 at 01:18 AM.