Really bummed, another problem. Stutter...
Yea, I forgot about that one Tackle. That's if yours is suffering the old "burr problem" deal. It was a robotic mistake during assembly. Good to see your still around btw.
Sorry for off topic OP.
Ok. Amazon actually dropped off something before noon for one, made me happy!
So I plugged in the obd reader and went to the codes section. No stored codes. Then I went to the pending codes section. No pending codes.
🤷🏼♂️ Lol
so then I went through I/M and the other tests. I took pics of the screen. I did some quick googling. So it looks like it may be EVAP related? Can that really cause a stutter?
So I plugged in the obd reader and went to the codes section. No stored codes. Then I went to the pending codes section. No pending codes.
🤷🏼♂️ Lol
so then I went through I/M and the other tests. I took pics of the screen. I did some quick googling. So it looks like it may be EVAP related? Can that really cause a stutter?
I once had a misfire that wasn't constant enough to pull a DTC. My truck had no codes, but it would misfire occasionally.
@Jbrew taught me to accelerate to 44mph, just before it kicks into overdrive and hold it there to force the misfire. It worked for me and I was able to force the code out which was a misfire on cylinder 3 I believe. I could be wrong about that part.
@Jbrew taught me to accelerate to 44mph, just before it kicks into overdrive and hold it there to force the misfire. It worked for me and I was able to force the code out which was a misfire on cylinder 3 I believe. I could be wrong about that part.
I once had a misfire that wasn't constant enough to pull a DTC. My truck had no codes, but it would misfire occasionally.
@Jbrew taught me to accelerate to 44mph, just before it kicks into overdrive and hold it there to force the misfire. It worked for me and I was able to force the code out which was a misfire on cylinder 3 I believe. I could be wrong about that part.
@Jbrew taught me to accelerate to 44mph, just before it kicks into overdrive and hold it there to force the misfire. It worked for me and I was able to force the code out which was a misfire on cylinder 3 I believe. I could be wrong about that part.
Well guys, once again thank you for the help. Of course I drove it a couple of miles yesterday and it was fine lol.
so I’ll keep on driving it like you recommend and I’ll try this trick to see if I can get it to “cough” lol.
updates to come.
edit: my wife came down with a rare spine disease so I’m trying to save money but I’m going to start buying (or trying at least) to buy a couple Motorcraft coils every paycheck and just replace them all and be done with it. Plugs too.
Last edited by Oh2supercrew; Feb 7, 2020 at 11:46 AM.
Yeah, like was mentioned above, just before OD and in OD is where it shows up the most. I just had a #7 misfire, and rolling down I-80 at 70, going back and forth into 3rd and OD made mine illuminate pretty quick.
LOL. These trucks shouldn't leak anywhere...it's very rare. I guess the most common is a coolant leak behind the water pump into the block cavity. The o-rings (2) fail at the heater core hard-line connect there. You shine a flashlight behind the alternator into the cavity for evidence...it'll be wet. Also, if your intake is composite, they can crack with age. But other than that....











