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why shouldn’t I be messing with it? I was unclear in my post. I’m sorry. I love the thing. I like working on it. It’s just kinda sucks that I get it and all of a sudden it’s having issues. Ya know? 😁 especially since the guy I bought it from had no problems at all with it.
This generation is the last of the easy to work on F150's produced IMO. You can get another 100,000 miles out of it ALA it was maintained properly. My kid is driving my old 98 w/350,000 plus miles, original engine and trans. That truck has never left me stranded or "bummed out". There comes a time when you have to go through it, as with any vehicle. I would do it regardless of what the previous owner told you. Shouldn't be bummed but excited to bring it back up to snuff. That truck will take care of you with little effort/TLC.
Originally Posted by Oh2supercrew
Im starting all of these threads because I want to fix my truck 😁. That’s what this forum is for, right? 🤷🏼♂️😁
It's best to limit your threads as much as you can. That's because previous or future problems are usually related. You'll be better informed and it's much easier to help you if we are right off the bat as well. If the problem is completely unrelated without a doubt, then yes, new thread.
Originally Posted by Oh2supercrew
How do I go about finding out if it’s a plug or coil? Will there be a code if there is no check engine light?
First, make sure your accurate with descriptions. It matters quite a bit where in the rpm and load range the engine is missing. If it's "exactly" as you explain it, then it sounds like it's lacking good maintenance. Like I said , have to go through it...tune it up.
You can use certain phones with an ELM adapter and Torq Pro (app) to retrieve live data. I'm not sure all will give you mode 6 (cylinder history). You can purchase add-on PID's at the site. Personally I never needed to go that route with this gen, a scanner yes. Many do though and it has been helpful. It's up to you, I'd think about replacing all plugs and coils myself. If you uses quality parts, you'll most likley not have to deal with ignition problems in the near future.
This generation is the last of the easy to work on F150's produced IMO. You can get another 100,000 miles out of it ALA it was maintained properly. My kid is driving my old 98 w/350,000 plus miles, original engine and trans. That truck has never left me stranded or "bummed out". There comes a time when you have to go through it, as with any vehicle. I would do it regardless of what the previous owner told you. Shouldn't be bummed but excited to bring it back up to snuff. That truck will take care of you with little effort/TLC.
It's best to limit your threads as much as you can. That's because previous or future problems are usually related. You'll be better informed and it's much easier to help you if we are right off the bat as well. If the problem is completely unrelated without a doubt, then yes, new thread.
First, make sure your accurate with descriptions. It matters quite a bit where in the rpm and load range the engine is missing. If it's "exactly" as you explain it, then it sounds like it's lacking good maintenance. Like I said , have to go through it...tune it up.
You can use certain phones with an ELM adapter and Torq Pro (app) to retrieve live data. I'm not sure all will give you mode 6 (cylinder history). You can purchase add-on PID's at the site. Personally I never needed to go that route with this gen, a scanner yes. Many do though and it has been helpful. It's up to you, I'd think about replacing all plugs and coils myself. If you uses quality parts, you'll most likley not have to deal with ignition problems in the near future.
Like, I said, you’re right. 😁. Poor wording on my part. Just kinda stinky it happened so soon lol.
I’ll replace the coils. I was going to do the oil filter housing job but this has to come first so i can drive it.
thank you again. I was crapping my pants when I made this thread since I thought it was a tranny problem.
I’ll try and limit the threads. I didn’t mean to clutter the place up, I just made them as the issues arose and I’ve found you guys to be the best source of accurate advice and information.
my wife and friends keep telling me toignore the little leaks but I want it perfect. 😁
Just don't go cheap on the coils. There are some el cheapos on Amazon and Ebay. You will be replacing them again shortly.
Denso coils are the exact same as Motorcraft, and usually a couple bucks cheaper. I would really suggest doing the plugs at the same time, and these are a Motorcraft ONLY part.
Also... on your oil leak, your pressure switch needs to be replaced anyway, and I think you may cure that leak by replacing that first. Might save yourself a lot of work by trying that first.
Like, I said, you’re right. 😁. Poor wording on my part. Just kinda stinky it happened so soon lol.
I’ll replace the coils. I was going to do the oil filter housing job but this has to come first so i can drive it.
thank you again. I was crapping my pants when I made this thread since I thought it was a tranny problem.
I’ll try and limit the threads. I didn’t mean to clutter the place up, I just made them as the issues arose and I’ve found you guys to be the best source of accurate advice and information.
my wife and friends keep telling me toignore the little leaks but I want it perfect. 😁
LOL. These trucks shouldn't leak anywhere...it's very rare. I guess the most common is a coolant leak behind the water pump into the block cavity. The o-rings (2) fail at the heater core hard-line connect there. You shine a flashlight behind the alternator into the cavity for evidence...it'll be wet. Also, if your intake is composite, they can crack with age. But other than that....
Just don't go cheap on the coils. There are some el cheapos on Amazon and Ebay. You will be replacing them again shortly.
Denso coils are the exact same as Motorcraft, and usually a couple bucks cheaper. I would really suggest doing the plugs at the same time, and these are a Motorcraft ONLY part.
Also... on your oil leak, your pressure switch needs to be replaced anyway, and I think you may cure that leak by replacing that first. Might save yourself a lot of work by trying that first.
Ok, I’ve got a mode 6 obd 2 on the way and I looked up the Motorcraft coils on rockauto, they are $30.72 a pop. As soon as I confirm with the obd I’ll order those. 😁
I’ll do the pressure switch like you recommend. I’ll order that Friday when I get paid and I’ll update the thread when I get it all done!
Thank you again man! You’ve been saving me a lot of time and headaches!!! I owe you.
Ok. Amazon actually dropped off something before noon for one, made me happy!
So I plugged in the obd reader and went to the codes section. No stored codes. Then I went to the pending codes section. No pending codes.
🤷🏼♂️ Lol
so then I went through I/M and the other tests. I took pics of the screen. I did some quick googling. So it looks like it may be EVAP related? Can that really cause a stutter?
Last edited by Oh2supercrew; Feb 6, 2020 at 03:36 PM.
LOL. These trucks shouldn't leak anywhere...it's very rare.
I'm going on 3 years with a leaking head gasket around Cylinder 3-4. At least my starter stays well oiled.
OP: I agree with the others. Sounds like it could be a misfire but too hard to tell from here. Keep driving and see if you get a code or if it does it in park/neutral with a little rev.
