Engine Builders talk.
Originally Posted by ZebraFord
Why wouldn't you do it while it's still torn apart?? No sense in waiting if you aren't planning on tearing into the motor soon
when I do go to do the lower end later on, I'll get a valve job then.
Originally Posted by Cmanjr
because if I get a valve job and have valves that seal completely, it'll allow the pressure in the cylinders to get up higher and the next thing to fail would be the piston rings. I'm not wanting to have to go into the lower end at all yet.
when I do go to do the lower end later on, I'll get a valve job then.
when I do go to do the lower end later on, I'll get a valve job then.
Originally Posted by ZebraFord
Haha ok you win lol. This is why I'm hanging around the engine builders thread I didn't think about that. You learn something new every day
and I can't even take the credit for thinking of that, the guy at the machine shop who I talked to and who did the work to my head was talking with me some and he was telling me about that and why he says I shouldn't get a valve job without going into the lower end.
just dropped my jeeps cylinder head off at the machine shop. $35 to clean it and mag it, then $65 to resurface it.
the guy there said it could use a valve job, since the valve seats were pretty worn. he did say it would probably be just fine to put it back together as is, but to keep that in mind. that would be an additional $175, so that's not gonna happen, not yet.
he also strongly urged me not to use valve lapping compound, he said that if it was a race engine running leaded race fuel then it should be used but it's not a good idea to use it in my application. it's because of something to do with the lead grit or something like that. he said it would be better to use toothpaste if I was going to do it.
the guy there said it could use a valve job, since the valve seats were pretty worn. he did say it would probably be just fine to put it back together as is, but to keep that in mind. that would be an additional $175, so that's not gonna happen, not yet.
he also strongly urged me not to use valve lapping compound, he said that if it was a race engine running leaded race fuel then it should be used but it's not a good idea to use it in my application. it's because of something to do with the lead grit or something like that. he said it would be better to use toothpaste if I was going to do it.
Originally Posted by Jbrew
Which engine ? Buddy built one, put a 350 in it. Haven't went wheeling in it yet , but those things are little rockets. I see now why he wanted to build one lol.
It's not all too much of a high revving motor, but she's a screamer once you get up into the higher RPMs.
even for as these are stock, if you have tires and gears matched well for each other, these things can chit and git, not the fastest thing in the world, but it's not a slouch so to speak. a 350 in one would for sure be a rocket though. these things aren't all that heavy for stock with a lift and even 31" tires. less than 3k lbs.
Jeep/AMC I-6 4.0L HO (High Output)
It's not all too much of a high revving motor, but she's a screamer once you get up into the higher RPMs.
even for as these are stock, if you have tires and gears matched well for each other, these things can chit and git, not the fastest thing in the world, but it's not a slouch so to speak. a 350 in one would for sure be a rocket though. these things aren't all that heavy for stock with a lift and even 31" tires. less than 3k lbs.
It's not all too much of a high revving motor, but she's a screamer once you get up into the higher RPMs.
even for as these are stock, if you have tires and gears matched well for each other, these things can chit and git, not the fastest thing in the world, but it's not a slouch so to speak. a 350 in one would for sure be a rocket though. these things aren't all that heavy for stock with a lift and even 31" tires. less than 3k lbs.






