Getting boosted-looking for input please
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,425
Likes: 103
From: Vancouver, BC
If I had the money, I'd go with the Whipple. I've done so much research on Eaton, Procharger, Whipple, Eaton TVS, etc. that it just makes sense to go with a twin screw. If I couldn't go with that I'd hit up an Eaton TVS. But overall these are a bargain at that price. You can probably get the supercharger, install and tune for less than what it costs to have a Whipple to your door. Hell if I had money to burn I'd either throw in a custom 3.3L Whipple or a Ken Belle 3.6! 
2. The EGT probe needs to be mounted within 1" of the head to be of any use. Any further away and you will not get real time readings thus defeating the purpose. You will want to mount it on cylinder 4 (driverside back cylinder). Keep in mind this is the second hottest cylinder. Number 8 gets about 20 degrees hotter. This would be the preffered cylinder to take readings from but it's imposible to mount the probe over there. Remember 1600F is the warning. You hit that get off the gas.
3. A/F Wide band. Mount this before the cats on either side. Preferably close to the factory O2 but not inline. For instance if your factory O2 is at 7 o'clock mount your wideband at 2 o'clock 1-3" upstream from the factory unit. Again the driverside is easiest for this. You need to find out what the ethonal content is of your fuel source. If it is 10% then your tune needs to be set to run 14.2 stoich and of course you will want to calibrate your meter for a stoich reading of 14.2. WOT should be 11.22. If your ethonal content has reached 15% then you will need to command a stoich setting of 13.9 in your tune and of course calibrate your meter accordingly. Do keep an eye on this as many areas are preparing to up the ethonal content in the fuel to 15%.
3. A/F Wide band. Mount this before the cats on either side. Preferably close to the factory O2 but not inline. For instance if your factory O2 is at 7 o'clock mount your wideband at 2 o'clock 1-3" upstream from the factory unit. Again the driverside is easiest for this. You need to find out what the ethonal content is of your fuel source. If it is 10% then your tune needs to be set to run 14.2 stoich and of course you will want to calibrate your meter for a stoich reading of 14.2. WOT should be 11.22. If your ethonal content has reached 15% then you will need to command a stoich setting of 13.9 in your tune and of course calibrate your meter accordingly. Do keep an eye on this as many areas are preparing to up the ethonal content in the fuel to 15%.
For those of you with the updated heads..
http://www.fordracingparts.com/m/part.asp?p=10576
These are the 1 step colder plugs from Ford racing(thank you blown ford). These are made by NGK for ford racing.
NGK ZNAR7AIX / 7554 from rock auto are the cheapest, and the same as the ford racing plugs.
Your coil code should be 8L3E(brown boot).
http://www.fordracingparts.com/m/part.asp?p=10576
These are the 1 step colder plugs from Ford racing(thank you blown ford). These are made by NGK for ford racing.
NGK ZNAR7AIX / 7554 from rock auto are the cheapest, and the same as the ford racing plugs.
Your coil code should be 8L3E(brown boot).
Last edited by scobar; Mar 1, 2013 at 09:10 PM.
12 Second Truck
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,931
Likes: 133
From: NC
For those of you with the updated heads..
http://www.fordracingparts.com/m/part.asp?p=10576
These are the 1 step colder plugs from Ford racing(thank you blown ford). These are made by NGK for ford racing.
NGK ZNAR7AIX / 7554 from rock auto are the cheapest, and the same as the ford racing plugs.
Your coil code should be 8L3E(brown boot).
http://www.fordracingparts.com/m/part.asp?p=10576
These are the 1 step colder plugs from Ford racing(thank you blown ford). These are made by NGK for ford racing.
NGK ZNAR7AIX / 7554 from rock auto are the cheapest, and the same as the ford racing plugs.
Your coil code should be 8L3E(brown boot).
12 Second Truck
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,931
Likes: 133
From: NC
Haha killing the plugs just comes with being boosted. And it's not as though you have to change em to drive. You will just notice idle quality drop and anywhere from 10-30rwhp missing as they get around the 10,000 mark. For me this is unexcepatable. So as soon idle quality drops or she won't roast the tires when I floor it at 30-40mph they go in the trash.
As for the fuel pump thats up to you. A dyno and data logging will tell you for sure. The stock pump will be close to its limit though. Just be prepared to need a dyno tune when you add the performance fuel pump. The voltage tables have to be tuned.
As for the fuel pump thats up to you. A dyno and data logging will tell you for sure. The stock pump will be close to its limit though. Just be prepared to need a dyno tune when you add the performance fuel pump. The voltage tables have to be tuned.
12 Second Truck
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,931
Likes: 133
From: NC
Thats correct. They do have a higher capacity fuel pump. But just to give you an idea of why you will run out of pump consider this. Stock these trucks consume an avg of .28 lbs of fuel per minute at WOT. A Roush charged truck at 10psi will slurp .6 lbs of fuel per minute. So your doubling your consumption over stock and you still have to have enough pump left to dump fuel in should the PCM determine your egt's are to high. Thats why you only want to use a max of 80% of any part of fuel system including the MAF. You need the 20% as a safe factor for the MAF to account for varying conditions and of course you need the extra capacity on the fuel system in case she needs to cool things down.