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Getting boosted-looking for input please

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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 08:17 PM
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Default Getting boosted-looking for input please

Ok so I have pulled the trigger and am getting a supercharger. I'd like to have a few other eyes go over this to make sure it looks good.

It is the roush charger unit(intercooled).
Since my truck is an 08, I bought the supplemental kit. I am out of town so unable to verify if I have the right balancer or not. I was not able to find the balancer on the net referencing the PN from the roush manual.

Also, did buy:
roush CAI
Pulley
Tune
EGT
Boost gauge
Wide band
Everything came from Stage 3 Motorsports. Lou said he has the above on his f150 with no isues. With this setup, I am told 10psi.

Current mods:
CAI
Cat back
Stock manifold/cats

Now, looking at the manual for the EGT and AFR, they suggest mounting before the cat and as close to the manifold as possible. Doing some google searching, some suggest dual egt/afr, but I don't think that is really needed with my setup.

I just topped off with 87 so I need to run that down, thinking until fuel light comes on then 1/4 tank premium, repeat to low fuel light, then another 1/4 tank of premium.

Also, wondering on spark plugs if I need to use cooler plugs or anything else? I read through the manual and by the sounds of it the stock plugs are fine? Was also going to do a fuel filter. For oil, I currently run 5w20 and was thinking going to 5w30.

Anything else I should worry about or consider?
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 09:58 PM
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Hey Scobar, got your pm and saw this thread so I figured I would answer your questions here.
1. Your stock balancer should work just fine. Take a look at it. If it has threaded holes in the face of it or bolts then you should be ok. If not I have my factory balancer I can get you set up with it. I currently run a Metco 15% overdrive balancer.

2. The EGT probe needs to be mounted within 1" of the head to be of any use. Any further away and you will not get real time readings thus defeating the purpose. You will want to mount it on cylinder 4 (driverside back cylinder). Keep in mind this is the second hottest cylinder. Number 8 gets about 20 degrees hotter. This would be the preffered cylinder to take readings from but it's imposible to mount the probe over there. Remember 1600F is the warning. You hit that get off the gas.

3. A/F Wide band. Mount this before the cats on either side. Preferably close to the factory O2 but not inline. For instance if your factory O2 is at 7 o'clock mount your wideband at 2 o'clock 1-3" upstream from the factory unit. Again the driverside is easiest for this. You need to find out what the ethonal content is of your fuel source. If it is 10% then your tune needs to be set to run 14.2 stoich and of course you will want to calibrate your meter for a stoich reading of 14.2. WOT should be 11.22. If your ethonal content has reached 15% then you will need to command a stoich setting of 13.9 in your tune and of course calibrate your meter accordingly. Do keep an eye on this as many areas are preparing to up the ethonal content in the fuel to 15%.

4. Yes you need cooler plugs. The SC kit should have some with it but if not Brisk and Autolite make great plugs. Let me know if you have the brown coils or the black ones . Don't want to give you the wrong part number plug.

5. Make sure to get all the 87 out of the tank and get 91 or 93 whichever the highest is in your area in there. BP makes the best power and has an excellent blend of cleaners. Shell would be a good second choice.

6. 10psi is about all the factory fuel pump can handle. Anymore and you will need a different pump or an inline BAP. Keep your fuel filter fresh. I change mine about every 10,000. Remember if she runs lean she's gonna blow so keep good fuel in her and the filter fresh. Use 5/20 motor oil. No need to go 5/30. Our 5.4 3V were built with tight tolerances and require 5/20. You can cause issues with the VCT running thicker oils. Though I doubt 5/30 would be enough to do it your better off with 5/20. Keep it changed every 3,000. It doesn't matter how good it looks. Boosted motors create blow by which forces gas and air from the cylinders past the rings thus contaminating the oil and deluting it.

Congrats on the purchase!!!! You are gonna love having a boosted truck. Get up with Mike Troyer and get a custom tune that will really wake her up. The Roush tune sucks. But thats the case with all SC tunes. Anything else just ask. Can't wait to see you wake her up.
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 10:05 PM
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I love hearing BF go off about Superchargers!


Saving my tax return to go toward a whipple! Hope to have the money saved up real soon!

Only thing that sucks is my Ram Air hood wouldn't be functional anymore I guess it would keep my engine bay a lot cooler though and it would blow air right on the compressor.
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BassAckwards
I love hearing BF go off about Superchargers!


Saving my tax return to go toward a whipple! Hope to have the money saved up real soon!

Only thing that sucks is my Ram Air hood wouldn't be functional anymore I guess it would keep my engine bay a lot cooler though and it would blow air right on the compressor.
You've got the right idea there! Ram air to cool the blower. Love it
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 10:31 PM
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i only ran 349hp on MPT's dyno the other day at about 6psi.... sucks bcus i ran over 380 at PHP in december.... my tune is all out of whack though.... was running lean and now im throwing rich code... i just cant drop another 600 for a retune with mpt right now... and i have a gryphon not sct... grrrrr
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 10:38 PM
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Wow. Whats wrong with your tune? PHP is usually pretty good.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 07:43 AM
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So to mount the EGT, it sounds like I may need to remove the manifold and drill it out then? If that's the case should almost look at getting a set of headers lol...

IIRC, all fuels in MN have a 10% ethonal blend. Some stations sell premium w/o ethonal but they are few and far.

Thanks for the advice.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 08:04 AM
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Well I wasn't gonna push you to buy more stuff but a set of long tubes and a true dual 2.5" system with an xpipe will be worth at least 25rwhp not to mention less stress and lower egt's. I'm not sure if you can mount the temp probe in the stock manifold while its mounted or not. I did with my long tubes. Just crawled under the truck with the cordless drill, made a hole, tapped it with a 1/8 npt tap, screwed in the fitting, inserted the probe, tightened set screw and she was done. Hopefully you can do that with the stock manifold just as easy.

Btw quick note. You want the temp probe center of the runner, not more than 1" from the head, and it needs to mounted somewhere between 5-7 o'clock. Don't mount this probe up on the top side of the runner.
I'm stoked about your build. Your doing all the right stuff up front. I wish we were closer I would lend you hand but if your like me you wouldn't want anybodys hands on your truck but your own
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 08:31 AM
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Honestly, if you where closer I'd ask for your help, always good to have someone around who has done this.

For headers, I might be able to budget some pacesetters, but not much else. Would need to tie into the stock exhaust connection, I do have a cat back. I can take the pacesetters to work and coat them so they don't rust as well as apply a thermal barrier.

The factory manifolds are iron, I think there is a bung for egt that should be welded but a strap does come with.

I need to look more at the ethonal blend and the afr. Not going to boost until everything is right.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 08:34 AM
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Oh I think pacesetter has a pipe to tie the headers to the stock exhaust location but then it's a cat delete which I'd like to avoid as I don't want crazy loud or smelly exhaust...
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