I put a 20 amp fuse (they call for a 40 amp) in today and turned the rear window on for about 10 minutes and the fuse didn't blow so I am going to try it that way to see what it does.

 

Just had it repaired today. Cost was $845 installed and they had to replace the entire panel (but not the motor.) It took about 90 minutes.

Dealership was quoting $1445 for the same job. $801 for the part, $644 for the install. I think their job book must list 5-6 hours for this work because they insisted that they would need the truck for a full day, maybe longer.

 

Must be some Incompetent Retards Working at your Dealership!

 

This issue really puts a bad taste in my mouth.
$50,000+ truck/ full extended warranty.
And I have to be pulling fuses and living without the defrost. Unreal.

 

I just talked to a F150 owner yesterday who had the issue with his 2010. Are people having issues with 2013's as well?

 

I still find it pretty ridiculous how much some of you are being quoted and are paying for these windows. It was $380 for the window and $220 to install at the local Ford dealer. I'd expect them to be way more money up here in Canada. I think the tech said it was an hour and a half job. It just takes a very long time for the glue to cure. I had to leave my windows cracked open for a couple days so the pressure of closing the door wouldn't blow the seal. Much like a new windshield.

 

I have ford service working on mine (which will probably come up with nothing). I am looking at 860.00 for the new rear window. Looks like this will be my 860.00 lesson to not go to Ford again.

 

Would you be able to contact your dealer and get the exact part number that they used? Because every place I called (7 of them) were only able to order the entire frame with both glass side pieces in it. They unbolt the old one, move the middle window and motor over, and bolt it back in. Replacing the single pane of glass was simply not an option as they could not order the single pane from Ford.

An exact part number might be helpful for anyone else who has this problem and finds this thread.

 

I don't think that would work. Either the rear defrost gets power or it doesn't. A fuse doesn't lower the amount of power it gets. It either works or it pops.


I've read it's new for the '13 but they've been know to explode too.


Mine was replaced with part# DL3Z-15422B30-F which is the 2013 rear sliding window with defrost.

I just pulled fuse #32 from the engine bay fuse box.

 

It was the entire slider. The part # was BL3Z-15422B30-A fwiw. It seems silly that the single pane isn't available, but they are not for the older sliders either so I dunno. If I ever run into mine again or it blows out like most members have I'll likely replace it with a solid pane. My buddy can get me one for under $100.

I just searched my part number on google and they all list for around $500+. I wonder if my buddy hooked me up with a deal then.