2015 Dash kit
Finally pulled the dash apart again to re-try the axxess panel for my 2 usb connections. Android Auto works, so the "rigged" USB cable that was dangling out of my dash is now a thing of the past. I was using the correct USB for android auto on my NEX4200, but it apparently cares which usb cord you use between the panel and phone for Android auto to work. My aftermarket cord didn't work, but the one that came with my phone did.
Glad to hear that it worked for you.
Finally pulled the dash apart again to re-try the axxess panel for my 2 usb connections. Android Auto works, so the "rigged" USB cable that was dangling out of my dash is now a thing of the past. I was using the correct USB for android auto on my NEX4200, but it apparently cares which usb cord you use between the panel and phone for Android auto to work. My aftermarket cord didn't work, but the one that came with my phone did.
Hey, folks. I'm cautiously optimistic that I got my static and whine sorted.
I had to get my constant 12v and keyed power directly from the battery.
I'm still getting some noise through the USB port when I connect my iPhone. It happens with an aftermarket cable or Apple cable.
I'd describe it as an increase in the volume of base level static.
Has anyone else experienced a similar noise with the PAC kit?
I had to get my constant 12v and keyed power directly from the battery.
I'm still getting some noise through the USB port when I connect my iPhone. It happens with an aftermarket cable or Apple cable.
I'd describe it as an increase in the volume of base level static.
Has anyone else experienced a similar noise with the PAC kit?
Eventually I sorted it out by getting my constant 12v directly from the battery and accessory voltage via a relay.
I phoned PAC and they tried to help with the noise but didn't express any interest in sending me a new Radio Pro module.
Oh well. Let's see how long the rest of it holds up.
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 25,524
Likes: 1,913
From: Not far enough away from Chicago
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 25,524
Likes: 1,913
From: Not far enough away from Chicago
I don't have accessory power out of mine, so I had to run an "add a circuit" to the fuse box. However, that induced a lot of noise.
Eventually I sorted it out by getting my constant 12v directly from the battery and accessory voltage via a relay.
I phoned PAC and they tried to help with the noise but didn't express any interest in sending me a new Radio Pro module.
Oh well. Let's see how long the rest of it holds up.
Eventually I sorted it out by getting my constant 12v directly from the battery and accessory voltage via a relay.
I phoned PAC and they tried to help with the noise but didn't express any interest in sending me a new Radio Pro module.
Oh well. Let's see how long the rest of it holds up.
Finally pulled the dash apart again to re-try the axxess panel for my 2 usb connections. Android Auto works, so the "rigged" USB cable that was dangling out of my dash is now a thing of the past. I was using the correct USB for android auto on my NEX4200, but it apparently cares which usb cord you use between the panel and phone for Android auto to work. My aftermarket cord didn't work, but the one that came with my phone did.
In my last truck (2016 F150 XL with lame 4.2" screen), I installed the PAC with a NEX4100.
If memory serves, Android Auto only worked from USB port 2. I think CarPlay works from Port 1 (double-check to make sure!)
Unless you like removing the dash and everything to plug the USB in to the right port, make sure to get the ports correct!
The wife and I went cruising for about a half hour and made found calls, swapped texts, and found everything (expect the static) to be fine.
However, yesterday morning, my steering wheel controls stopped working entirely.
My back up camera and head unit still worked, but any function from the steering wheel would not.
Since it had dropped below freezing Thursday night, my initial hunch was a bad solder joint or connection with the PAC unit.
However, when I tore it into yesterday evening, the problem was much simpler.
The mini jack for the SWC wire had grounded against the metal frame of the dash. I had soldered the other SWC wire to the head unit's wiring harness and had neglected to secure the parallel mini jack wire.
I put a piece of heat shrink over it and now all it well.
However, I had severe alternator whine and static with the factory accessory power. Connecting both the 12V constant and then the accessory power via relay to a separate, battery feed distribution block pretty much solved both except for when Apple Carplay is active.
Last edited by longbedbob; Oct 28, 2017 at 10:21 AM.






