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Did you install the level? I'm assuming spacers? If you installed, did you drop the lower control arms and leave the UCA balljoint tight? Some do it that way. That popping is caused by the balljoint binding up. Odd that with only a 2" level your angles would be that far out that would happen. .I believe I'd remove the tire/wheel, and at least loosen if not pop the balljoint out of the knuckle and see how it's movement is. Be careful, that knuckle will want to swing out with balljoint disconnected.
I think this would be a very rare occurrence, but I suppose it could be possible the guy that aligned it, may have kicked the camber too far out, just a shot in the dark on that.
After many different level configurations on my last 3 F150's, and the redneck kids trucks around here, I've never had to have cambolts installed yet. Now, my '04 Ranger I have, different critter altogether there.
I did the spacers myself. That was the first side I did. If I remember correctly, I loosened the ball joints first and removed the strut. When I went to reinstall with the spacer, there wasn't enough room to get the strut back in. I ended up having to reattach the ball joints and drop the lower control arm. You are probably right. It might be worth checking/replacing the ball joint just to see. Thanks.
I did the spacers myself. That was the first side I did. If I remember correctly, I loosened the ball joints first and removed the strut. When I went to reinstall with the spacer, there wasn't enough room to get the strut back in. I ended up having to reattach the ball joints and drop the lower control arm. You are probably right. It might be worth checking/replacing the ball joint just to see. Thanks.
Ah, you "did" drop the LCA, I thought that may be the case. Some do it like that, but that's just about guaranteed to throw the camber off, unless you get it back in the exact OEM position. Nothing wrong with what you did, it is a faster way than most do it, easier? I don't know, I usually just take out the UCA balljoint and the spindle nut, you get all kinds of room that way too. Just need to be careful when reinstalling the spindle nut.
I am seeing many different replies on the settings for Bilstein's 6612's ,for example set at 2'' but lifted 2.5'', any help for setting for 2018 F150 XL SUPER CAB, purchasing Bilstein's 6112 front and 5160 rear, replacing stock 20'' rims with Fuel Diesel 20x9 +1mm offset and 5.04 backspace and Scorpion ATP 275/60/R20, just not sure if needed UCA replaced/add or rear spring etc.
Decided to take the 305/65-18 Nitto's off and installed 305/60-18 BFG's
I didn't like how much the trucks *** jumped around with the Nitto's and even with the 2" level the tires rubbed when I turned the wheel backing up. Now it rides quite nicely with the BFG's.
Top pic was with Nittos, bottom pic is with the BFG's
Time stamped - but the rest of the tests are a good indication of where the Nitto Terra Grappler G2 sits. Hard and/or bouncy coming from the cheaper tyres for ride, at one point, explained as causing extra bouncing.
Time stamped - but the rest of the tests are a good indication of where the Nitto Terra Grappler G2 sits. Hard and/or bouncy coming from the cheaper tyres for ride, at one point, explained as causing extra bouncing.
Oh **** really!? I just went from K02 to Ridge grapplers waiting to get them installed, i hope they are not as bad.
No, KO2's are referenced by him, they're a much better tyre, but weren't available for the test. The Nitto's came last, see this video link for the time stamped summary of the Nitto. It's fairly damning.
Trucks *** jumping is usually stock shocks, bilsteins fixed that for me
I put new Bilstein 5100s on all 4 corners before I put the Nittos on
Originally Posted by zclif2601
Oh **** really!? I just went from K02 to Ridge grapplers waiting to get them installed, i hope they are not as bad.
For me, there is a night and day difference in them. Honestly the only reason I bought the Nittos was because I couldn't find KO2s. In hindsight I wish I would have waited.
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