The Leveling Kit Thread
#351
Senior Member
Did a Redneck level on mine this past weekend. Removed the block in the rear while installing the Bilstein 4600. I routinely carry about 300# in the back so it turned out pretty level. I also removed the 4x4 decals while I was at it.. Very happy with the results.
#353
Leveled mine today with the Eibach kit set on 2". I used the Air Force Academy Auto Hobby Shop, which was pretty awesome. They have everything you need to get the job done.
I'm not surprised that I still have a little rake in the front since I have airbags on the rear.
I'm not surprised that I still have a little rake in the front since I have airbags on the rear.
#354
#355
You don't need a spring compressor.
Look on Youtube, and search F150 2015 leveling kit, it will give you an idea.
May people remove the suspension arm to frame bolts to avoid removing the IWE, but the correct method as per Ford, is to remove the IWE and axle from the knuckle, to relieve tension on the CV joint and free the knuckle to tilt toward you and down with the suspension arm.
Most of the Youtube video don't follow the Ford's method and as you will see, create a big angle and tension on the joints, and that can break the plastic IWE during the process.
So, unbolting the IWE from the knuckle is the correct way of doing it.
Look on Youtube, and search F150 2015 leveling kit, it will give you an idea.
May people remove the suspension arm to frame bolts to avoid removing the IWE, but the correct method as per Ford, is to remove the IWE and axle from the knuckle, to relieve tension on the CV joint and free the knuckle to tilt toward you and down with the suspension arm.
Most of the Youtube video don't follow the Ford's method and as you will see, create a big angle and tension on the joints, and that can break the plastic IWE during the process.
So, unbolting the IWE from the knuckle is the correct way of doing it.
#356
Turbo --> :-)
The reference is the Ford service manual. I bought a copy from a vendor here.
It is a bit more work to unbolt the IWE and axle nut, but that way you make sure there are no tensions or extreme angle when manipulating the knuckle and half shaft vs the IWE.
#357
Turbo --> :-)
Don't worry. Like it has been said before, unless you drive every day in 4WD, the front axles will seldom rotate. No rotation = no wear.
I live in Canada, we have snow, and the only time I engage 4WD is under a snow storm AND that storm has to happen at the same time I'm on the road. So, I use 4WD maybe only 3-4 times in the winter for 20 minutes not more.
Under light snow, with a controlled right foot, 2WD does the job no problem.
#358
What to do?
Just bought a 15' Platinum 150. I'm wanting to level it up and thinking about going with the 2.25" Autospring spacers. Is there any reason I shouldn't go with the puck type spacer that sits on top of the strut? When I look online, many of the spacers come with shocks? Do I really need to replace the shocks? If the spacers go on top of the strut I should retain full function of my OEM shock, right?
#359
Senior Member
Just bought a 15' Platinum 150. I'm wanting to level it up and thinking about going with the 2.25" Autospring spacers. Is there any reason I shouldn't go with the puck type spacer that sits on top of the strut? When I look online, many of the spacers come with shocks? Do I really need to replace the shocks? If the spacers go on top of the strut I should retain full function of my OEM shock, right?
When I leveled my 2016 RCSB I used Rough Country 2" pucks and kept the OEM shocks because at that time I was on a budget and I was having the dealer do the install...I have put 10K since the level and no problems....truck handles fine and I'm very happy with the spacers....IF I was going to do it over again I'd probably do Bilsteins all around as I have the 5100's in the rear....not sure of the mileage on your truck but being 3 years old and while its apart if you can afford the cost I'd replace the shocks and go with Bilsteins or something comparable to them....