Crap! This is a frickin bear of a problem that has perplexed many here before.

Take off the negative terminal w/ the key off. Take a voltage reading between the terminal & the NEG post. If you see current, it means you have a constant draw on the battery from somewhere.

If you find a draw, have someone remove fuses, one at a time, until the draw disappears. Your door should be shut while doing this, so the dome lights, ect, aren't triggered on. Note which circuit it is that stops the draw.

Others have said that once a solenoid sticks, it is prone to do it afterwards.

How old is your starter?

 

im new to this forum thing so excuse me if im going about this the wrong way. I recently bought a 95 F150 extended cab. About two weeks after I bought it, it started blowing the fuse that controls the speedometer,odometer and interior lights and apparently the overdrive as well. The guy at the local auto parts store said the overdrive problem is probably in my transmission, but reading some other forums i dont believe that. My local ford dealership says i might have a bad wire in my gearshift lever thats rubbing and blowing the fuse. Does either one of those ideas sound true or are they just jerking my chain.

 

Usually, you want to start your own new thread on the first page of the section. But as it's a simple, somewhat related question, we won't say your Hijacking someone elses thread this time. Survey say's,.........the dealership is more likely steering you in the right direction on this one. Inspect your wires to the transmission & VSS senor on top of your differential for damage.

 

when you have the truck running, what happens when you take the battery cables off the battery? have you tryed this? if everything is right the truck should stay running. you should be able to run all the lights, the radio exc. let me know what happens.

 

You can run for a short period w/o the battery, but it raises hell w/ the alternator.

 

yeah i know. but its a good test to see whats going on with it. if the alternator is working it should run without the battery.
now if you were to attach a dead battery while its running. you would definitely f*** something up.

 

A voltage reading from the alternator POS to ground, while running, will tell you the same thing. Even more informational. Separating a weak alternator from one w/ a failed Diode.

 

your right. anyway thats the old fashion way

 

It was born in the day's when generators were predominant, rather than alternators. Doing that w/ all the electronics on board nowadays is kinda dicy. Power diodes offer some level of protection regarding reverse current flow, but why push the envelope. Also Electronics damage is done w/ below acceptable current as well as above.

 

thanks for not drilling me about hijackin the thread. like i said im new lol. thanks for the advice i'll check it tomorrow