Doing a tune up
So, I plan on changing out the wires, plugs, oil and maybe a few other things.
I will be gapping the plugs to .44 thousandths. The wires TBA, gonna shop around.
Now, oil, I am a little uncertain of what I should go with (summer weight should be 5w-20) but what brand should I go for? I know a lot think higher of certain brands. What have you had the best experience with? I had Pennzoil in my Grand Prix and Explorer, both lower mileage than the F-150. I was thinking of giving Valvoline a try. The cap and rotor look to be in good condition, but since I'm changing everything else, they may as well go. I have heard MSD and Mallory are the top contenders, so I will try and find them locally.
Anything else I should have a look at while I'm under there?
'95 300(4.9L) I6, 5spd, 2wd XL
I will be gapping the plugs to .44 thousandths. The wires TBA, gonna shop around.
Now, oil, I am a little uncertain of what I should go with (summer weight should be 5w-20) but what brand should I go for? I know a lot think higher of certain brands. What have you had the best experience with? I had Pennzoil in my Grand Prix and Explorer, both lower mileage than the F-150. I was thinking of giving Valvoline a try. The cap and rotor look to be in good condition, but since I'm changing everything else, they may as well go. I have heard MSD and Mallory are the top contenders, so I will try and find them locally.
Anything else I should have a look at while I'm under there?
'95 300(4.9L) I6, 5spd, 2wd XL
I use Motorcraft Rotor Part Number: DR374B. I have not seen a better constructed rotor yet. It is copper and brass and very well constructed. I combine that with a brass terminal BWD Distributor cap. As much as I love Accel parts, my Accel distributor cap corroded rather quickly when I tried it, but in hindsight, the Accel rotor was not brass and that may have been the cause of it. Rotors is something I'm very picky about. I've found that a lot (not all, but plenty of them) of aftermarket rotors are not as well constructed as Motorcraft.......at least from my experience.
Regarding oil, I wouldn't go with 5w-20 unless the engine has a roller cam and towing/hauling is minimal. My preference on oil viscosity is any Xw-30 or Xw-40 weight with the exception of 15w-40.
Regarding oil, I wouldn't go with 5w-20 unless the engine has a roller cam and towing/hauling is minimal. My preference on oil viscosity is any Xw-30 or Xw-40 weight with the exception of 15w-40.
I like using valvoline synthetic blend high mileage in the truck. But I'm still a pennzoil man at heart. I run 10w-30 in mine. For oil filter, I run purolator now. I had some issues with bad drainback valves in Fram's. Yea you definitely want brass contacts on your cap and rotor. and copper core plugs, don't get fooled into thinking platinums are better for this truck, they make it run worse than worn out copper's.
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I'm going with Castrol GTX High Mileage on Sunday(Next Sunday) and was wondering what type of Synthetic to go in the rear end? I don't want to go with Synthetic Motor Oil until I have a more stable income so I can change the seals or have them changed if they do develop a leak after the switch. I have some of the other things, plugs (Champion Copper's, STP 50/50 Mix Coolant, GTX Oil (10W-30) and the wires will be bought on Friday).
I have Wild Country XTX Sport tires(Stock LT235/75/R15) and I was wondering if I should have them aired up to 50PSI, or keep them at 40PSI? Sidewall says 50 and the door jam say 41 in the rear and 35 in the front. Sidewall or door jam?!
Edit: I have Axel Code 19, so that's 3.55 gears, if that helps on the gear oil decision.
I have Wild Country XTX Sport tires(Stock LT235/75/R15) and I was wondering if I should have them aired up to 50PSI, or keep them at 40PSI? Sidewall says 50 and the door jam say 41 in the rear and 35 in the front. Sidewall or door jam?!

Edit: I have Axel Code 19, so that's 3.55 gears, if that helps on the gear oil decision.






