Depends on your individual pain threshold. You could stick your finger in the end of a plug wire & have someone turn it over (Not my first choice).

You could put a plug in the end of a plug wire & hold the plug against a metal part of the engine (By the wire/ glove may help insulate you/ a lot depends on the condition of your wires/ good wires would not even require gloves) A stock coil would only wake you up if your wires bled current. My 60K coil however, would make me cry at the very least.

This little puppy is guaranteed pain free. Plugs in between your installed plug & it's plug wire. Light intensity of spark denotes strength. Most auto parts carry them. They're $2 at Harbor Freight & Tool.



Or hook up a timing light. If it doesn't strobe, you ain't got spark!

 

I'm kinda burnt out on codes at the moment. I'll review your's after you've done the battery disconnect & rescanned to see if the codes come back the same. Maybe I can find some kind of pattern to the codes listed.

 

17, 126, 122, 112, 327, 513, 553, 552, 565, 556, 558, 117 thats what I got with a 10 minute battery reset and with ignition on car off......

 

Doesn't look good. Many of these code can only occur during the KOER test. Like "cylinder identification" or "RPM low". You have quite a few sensor circuit faults. Not "out of range". Actual "circuit faults". The ECU itself seems to be the common denominator.

 

I'm seeing low Voltage situations too & once again PCM internal voltage failure. I wouldn't put a lot of hope in it but the the PCM relay it a multiple circuit relay, in addition to powering up the PCM.

If I replaced My ECU (PCM), I would replace my PCM relay, as it has a built in resistor designed to protect the ECU (PCM). So might as well start by replacing it (Relay) first. You might get lucky.

The PCM relay also energizes the Fuel Pump relay, which is also one of your power circuit fail codes.

I believe Remanufactured ECU's run around $125.

 

Well I changed out the PCM relay and same result....Could it be the ignition module or would you just say a fried computer? How is it possible that I get codes still with a jacked up computer?? By the way thank you so much for your help.

 

So how do you go about replacing the ECM??

 

Your ECU has RAM & ROM memory. RAM spits out your active codes & runs your truck based on sensor input with the help of the ROM, which tells the RAM what to do w/ that input, including control of actuators (actuator example: Injectors)

You've seemed to have lost the ROM, where the Continuous memory & the KAM (Kept adaptive memory) is stored. The Ram derives it's operational strategies from the ROM.

Equating to business, it would be like the general manager (ROM) quit & the assistant manager (RAM) is about to throw in the towel too.

It still bothers me that this occurred after the couple of things you did. I am not fond of those types of coincidences.

Spill anything?

Disconnect anything?

See any loose wires?

Did you check for spark?

 

Your code list reads in the actual order of what the ECU checks before starting the engine. Everything out of range or circuit failures. It anything disconnected, removed?
If not, the common denominator is the ECU.

 

All i did was run seafoam through the brake booster, fuel tank, and crankcase....ever since that, the truck has been down.... But I dont wanna contribute the seafoam for any of this because I have used it before on other cars and it worked great......I am almost positive the truck is getting spark....I got in it and it drove great around the parking lot of my apt for about 30 seconds, then it shut off again....this is soooo weird.