WELLLLL..... I got the two cylinders firing, but.... it is indeed off timing on the passenger side (bank 1). So, back apart it comes. He is going to pull it apart. Didn't realize that the 3V and 2V use the same tool, so I bought the crank tool. It'll be here Friday, and also the crank socket. From the research I've found the SBC crank socket is the same as the Modular Fords. Anyway, after watching videos, I don't see a need for the cam sprocket holder tools.

AK, Brew, can I time this POS without removing the cams? I've seen a lot of people saying you have to remove the cams.... but the sprockets turn freely. So, I don't see why I'd need to pull the cams? MAN, I wish I woulda ordered this a while ago, as I didn't realize this tool is the same used on the 2V as well.

I have no plans to own a 3V, so, lol...... I wasn't in a rush to buy the tool.

 

Now you understand why I bought one also. I don't really see a problem with the crank moving, but the damn cams and sprockets, YES. As far as timing this bad boy, there is a degreeing video on YouTube for setting balance. I don't see the need, unless this is a race engine to degree the cams. If you are within 2% and you almost have to be with the correct chain timing, then the computer will compensate for most imbalance. I'd just get it lined up right, using the 11 o'clock position on the crank keyway, and you should be close enough. You can degree it if you feel that is necessary if you have a wheel.

If the SBC crank socket is the same, then I'm good to go. Let me know when you get it please and if it fits. I'd appreciate it.

Whitey.....rent the cam locks from AZ or OR. They bolt under the front of the VCT's and hold everything solid. They have 3 saw like teeth to lock it into spot and not move.

 

I watched FordTechMakuloco time one, and I really don't see the need for those cam locks.

Fast forward this video to 15 minutes, and tell me what you think...

 

Probably not you, and a number of others on here, wouldn't need the cam locks, but for those reading this who have never undertaken this task, I would wholeheartedly recommend them.

I saw this last week, and thought this guy had his stuff fairly well together. A bit corny in places, but overall a good video.

Here's the one on degreeing the modular motor.

 

I think I'll be able to get by without the holders. Down in the comments he says just to use the marks for a daily driver.

Where's Brew been? Haven't seen him for a day or two.

 

I've watched quite a few videos now, and what I see them cam holders being used for is removing the cam phasers/gears. Not really as a positional holder.

One video kind of irritated me. It was put out by Cloyes, and I feel it is a bit misleading. He says to set the crank at 12 o'clock, then later moves it to 11, and doesn't really say anything about it. Pretty misleading, IMO.

 

Cloyes is wrong, because the tool itself sets the crank at the 11 o'clock position for the keyway. As I see it and have done it, if the crank if right, then the chains are marked to get things set on the gears, so as long as you get the bottom the the first marked link, you should be good to go overall. Like I said earlier, the PCM will override any small imbalance in a stock motor. Performance, I would definitely degree to get within 1% of balance.

It's a just a go for it, if you have any motor talent. If you don't, stay away. Easy. LOL

 

Yeah, I think it's misinformation. You could really foul things up using this.

 

White
Do you by chance have the wiring pinout of the drivers side power window switch? ford escape I have a 2006 and the window went down and won't co up. I have to order a switch but I need to get the window up.
Thanks

 

PM me your email and I can send you some stuff you'd like.