If the guy can't afford a compressor with clutch and the tools to fix it, how about throwing on the bypass pulley that they have available? Just a thought.

 

That is a good idea if he just needs that truck right now and can't afford the compressor.

On another note I finally have my boat running and sitting pretty. Only had to pull the engine 3 times to make it happen. Lol

 

The compressor has been ordered. I'm going to try and get out of it. I really need to get my house sold. I find out tomorrow on my loan.... then it's go time. I asked for a lot more than I plan to pay, but I wanted to make sure I have enough if I need it.

 

lol why'd you have to pull it 3 times??

 

JP....glad you finally got that 4.3 back into the boat. Why did you have so much problems with the engine mounting? I know that the damn outdrives can be a problem to stab at times, but with the SBC design V6, you should of been good to go.

Anyway you look at it, you got it done, so now you can go play with it this year.

 

It wasn't the mounting that was a problem. I am surprisingly good at that now. Lol

The first pull was the old engine to strip down and move everything over to the new short block.

The second was because I failed to torque down the new flywheel studs to spec because I found the wrong torque sequence online so it was rattling something awful.

... and the third was to drop the oil pan to reseal it due to a gasket failure at the front cover/pan joint. It dumped two quarts in the bilge in under 30 minutes.

I have a small noise I'm hearing now but I'm pretty sure I'm just paranoid about something else going wrong.

I will have this thing in the water every chance I get now and hopefully I can take down my chain hoist for the last time.

 

JP....So that is why you were asking about the different flywheel bolts in the beginning. Those damn front cover seals on the 4.3/5.0/5.7 are a joke. I no longer use that type pan gasket. When I had to do them, I used the Felpro one piece (V6) OS34502R or OS34500R (V8). Those bad boys don't leak.

When it comes to inboards, I hate having to do anything twice. I have a Volvo I/O, and almost had to pull it a second time, but got lucky when I made a tool to work on the back. Saved me a re-pull.

 

That is exactly it on the studs. I used a Mahle engine gasket kit with the one piece design and it looked substantial, but I when I pulled the pan after the leak I found a burr in the casting that needed to be filed down. I have the Volvo 4.3GL setup with the sx outdrive so I know exactly what you mean.

I just hope I don't have to pull it again for that little noise I'm hearing but honestly it could be that balance shaft and be no problem at all. I ran it on up to 4200 rpms a couple of times and the noise never got any louder and the engine is still together so that's a good thing.

 

JP....that 4.3 is a great marine application. It's a great airboat motor also. (I can't believe I just said that about a Chev). Does your Outdrive use the coupler? I had one that rattled like hell, and I forgot to grease the darn thing, so it always made a bit of noise. If I'd used the grease, it would of absorbed the noise, but not me. lol

 

Lol yeh it seems like it will be just fine, even if it is a Chevy.

I do have a 2 u-joint coupler in the drive shaft that makes noise at idle but I greased it and under power it is quiet as can be. That initial rattle did have me worried too though.