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Old Mar 28, 2023 | 08:37 AM
  #27701  
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
Noobs , how much work was that oil pan gasket ?
Oil pan gasket won't much.
Jack truck up plenty.
Remove oil from pan.
Remove 5 bolts for crossmember.
Remove vacuum lines and vent from axle.
Put jack under axle.
Remove two more bolts from axle.
I removed the driveshaft to do U-Joints and that was the hardest part. It doesn't need to come out.
Pry axle out. Not difficult.
Remove a bunch of 10mm pan bolts.
Pan lowers from rear and comes out easy.
I didn't remove shafts to wheels.
Pan gasket has nubs to keep it aligned during install.
My factory oil pan was made by MTD. Yes, the lawnmower guys. Had the same logo on it along with the Ford stampings.

Was a half day job but I don't have any rust problems to fight with.

Bolts from front driveshaft to transfer case are a bitch to get aligned to reinstall. you can either see or do, not both. Don't remove them if you don't need to.

Last edited by ultimatenoobie; Mar 28, 2023 at 08:39 AM.
Old Mar 28, 2023 | 08:44 AM
  #27702  
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98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
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Originally Posted by white89gt
On a side note... I went to the yard yesterday with my Buddy so we could get some parts for his car. We get there, and he hands me a Milwaukee 12V 1/4" impact, and a bit set.... he says, I have a couple of those - so I brought that for you to keep, but I only have one charger so just get a charger for it. LOL, so I officially have my first Milwaukee battery powered tool. I'll be honest though, I used it a bit at the yard - and I think my DeWalt has more beans.

Put a 18V Milwaukee 1/4" up against 20V dewalt and was surprised how much more the dewalt had..very noticeable. Both impacts were older but not ancient, they were brushless models. A little beat. That dewalt was always a little beast. But yea, you would 18's and 20v's should run the same.

Figured the Milwaukee may have been hurt at some point in time, but iduno, seemed to run smooth.

The 1/4" Dewalt I use was purchased when brushless first came out..2012 maybe ? Somewhere around there, still going strong, -


Old Mar 28, 2023 | 09:05 AM
  #27703  
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Originally Posted by ultimatenoobie
Oil pan gasket won't much.
Jack truck up plenty.
Remove oil from pan.
Remove 5 bolts for crossmember.
Remove vacuum lines and vent from axle.
Put jack under axle.
Remove two more bolts from axle.
I removed the driveshaft to do U-Joints and that was the hardest part. It doesn't need to come out.
Pry axle out. Not difficult.
Remove a bunch of 10mm pan bolts.
Pan lowers from rear and comes out easy.
I didn't remove shafts to wheels.
Pan gasket has nubs to keep it aligned during install.
My factory oil pan was made by MTD. Yes, the lawnmower guys. Had the same logo on it along with the Ford stampings.

Was a half day job but I don't have any rust problems to fight with.

Bolts from front driveshaft to transfer case are a bitch to get aligned to reinstall. you can either see or do, not both. Don't remove them if you don't need to.
Is it possible to lower the front axle enough to remove the pan without removing the drivshaft ? Or would you have to at the very least pull the shaft off the front ? Pan replacement job.

I've pulled the axle before, I can't recall how close it was to the pan , - or how low it needs to be for the pan to clear the pickup tube. Be easier to just get the thing out of the way I expect.

Last edited by Jbrew; Mar 28, 2023 at 09:18 AM.
Old Mar 28, 2023 | 09:05 AM
  #27704  
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This thing is basically a screw gun, really. I'll use it for that, basically, LOL.

My Buddy actually also had a DeWalt in his bag when he gave it to me, if that says anything at all.
Old Mar 28, 2023 | 09:08 AM
  #27705  
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It looks to me like you could wiggle the pan out without removing the prop shaft, but it also looks like it would be right in the damn way.

I've only done this job on an 11th gen with 2WD. I don't think the 10th gen 2WD's have a removable crossmember on the front... could be wrong though.
Old Mar 28, 2023 | 09:17 AM
  #27706  
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
Is it possible to lower the front axle enough to remove the pan without removing the drivshaft ? Or would you have to at the very least pull the shaft off the front ? Pan replacement job.
Don't need to drop the shaft. I only did it to replace the u-joints.
Worst case, unbolt the flange at the axle which is easy to get to.

Last edited by ultimatenoobie; Mar 28, 2023 at 09:47 AM. Reason: Spelling
Old Mar 28, 2023 | 09:22 AM
  #27707  
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98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
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Originally Posted by white89gt
It looks to me like you could wiggle the pan out without removing the prop shaft, but it also looks like it would be right in the damn way.
Haha, you know what I'm thinking. I think it might be the way a little too much.
Old Mar 28, 2023 | 09:34 AM
  #27708  
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Originally Posted by ultimatenoobie
Don't need to drop the shaft. I only did it to replace the u-joints.
Worst case, unbolt the flange at the axle which is east to get to.
Yea, that's why I asked, because you were doing u joints as well.

There's like a dime size rust spot at the front of the pan. Just there, pan is solid everywhere else...no rust. It's not leaking or leaching oil in that spot yet. Deciding whether to repair or replace.

Thanks!

Nice job btw, that was a little bit of work...made good time as well.

Last edited by Jbrew; Mar 28, 2023 at 09:39 AM.
Old Mar 28, 2023 | 09:57 AM
  #27709  
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
Yea, that's why I asked, because you were doing u joints as well.

There's like a dime size rust spot at the front of the pan. Just there, pan is solid everywhere else...no rust. It's not leaking or leaching oil in that spot yet. Deciding whether to repair or replace.

Thanks!

Nice job btw, that was a little bit of work...made good time as well.

Thanks,
Not dealing with rust makes things a lot quicker.
Old Mar 28, 2023 | 11:23 AM
  #27710  
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Any of you guys use blue light glasses ? I guess there's no medical proof they work, but some swear by them.



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