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Old Sep 27, 2019 | 04:57 PM
  #11891  
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Originally Posted by white89gt
River, check out https://www.hackster.io/ for lots of good info and projects you can create. Lots of really cool stuff on there.

Speaking of Skylar... he seems to be breeding. What an influx of Skylar's we've had lately. This guy with the cylinder one misfire and the loose timing chain. Does he not realize that chain is used for 4 cylinders? Not just cylinder one? I doubt he ever did a compression test, like AK told him to.... And then the transmission Seafoam guy. Holy nuts! Drive me nuts, LOL. I just want to ask them "if you know so much, why are you here?".
Wow White, thanks for the link. There are some really cool looking projects in there from GPS to making your own dash boards. Non-automotive projects too like an AC motor speed controller. Some projects are questionable though like the "punch activated" arm mounted flame throwers. It took a special kind of mind to come up with that one. lol Some projects also seem like they would exist beyond the shareware world too like a biometric based motorcycle stability control. Thanks again.

Last edited by River1; Sep 27, 2019 at 10:17 PM.
Old Sep 27, 2019 | 07:12 PM
  #11892  
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2100, glad it worked out. I was so impressed with mine I tell anyone who will listen. When I use mine and it just hovers above the surface, I can't help but be reminded of Luke Skywalker's speeder hovering around.

Last edited by Buck0; Sep 27, 2019 at 07:15 PM.
Old Sep 27, 2019 | 07:17 PM
  #11893  
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Originally Posted by Buck0
2100, glad it worked out. I was so impressed with mine I tell anyone who will listen. When I use mine and it just hovers above the surface, I can't help but be reminded of Luke Skywalker's speeder hovering around.
Marty McFly's hoverboard, eh? lol
Old Sep 27, 2019 | 07:18 PM
  #11894  
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Oh Yeah. That works to.
Old Sep 27, 2019 | 09:42 PM
  #11895  
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I just went over to HD and priced out their base board. HOLY ****! They are sure proud of that.

Guess I need to try Lumber Liquidators now.
Old Sep 27, 2019 | 09:51 PM
  #11896  
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Originally Posted by white89gt
I just went over to HD and priced out their base board. HOLY ****! They are sure proud of that.

Guess I need to try Lumber Liquidators now.
What type of base. The cheapest is finger joint or pine. If painting you can use finger joint. But yea, some of those big box stores don't even try to keep their wood straight...they get all bendy and can't do much with it.
Old Sep 27, 2019 | 10:15 PM
  #11897  
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Originally Posted by white89gt
I just went over to HD and priced out their base board. HOLY ****! They are sure proud of that.

Guess I need to try Lumber Liquidators now.
I just did a quick internet search for architectural salvage yards in SLC and you have some choices and a place called "Georges" comes up a lot. Can't speak for SLC but in this area the architectural salvage places are usually good for about 50% off from new. Of course some stuff like the old, heavy, solid doors or fire places can cost a lot more than new but flat work, windows, cabinets, etc. can come with big savings. You will probably have to putty old nail holes but the wood is old, fully dried and stable. Just a thought.

FYI, you need to watch out for some woods like white oak. It gets really hard when it gets old. To use nails you may have to pre-drill holes for the nails otherwise all you'll do is bend your finish nails and swear a lot. Just tell them you want to test nailing before buying.
Old Sep 27, 2019 | 10:41 PM
  #11898  
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
What type of base. The cheapest is finger joint or pine. If painting you can use finger joint. But yea, some of those big box stores don't even try to keep their wood straight...they get all bendy and can't do much with it.
I was looking at the primered MDF stuff (because it is actually straight) and PVC for the laundry room. They sell it by the foot, and you could actually go in there and cut everything pretty damn close (except corners, etc.) and just get what you need in MDF. I think the stuff they had in the bay was 24 feet long. My longest piece is around 21 or 22 feet that I need. BUT, then I have a 6.5 ft bed, so..... LOL.

Originally Posted by River1
I just did a quick internet search for architectural salvage yards in SLC and you have some choices and a place called "Georges" comes up a lot. Can't speak for SLC but in this area the architectural salvage places are usually good for about 50% off from new. Of course some stuff like the old, heavy, solid doors or fire places can cost a lot more than new but flat work, windows, cabinets, etc. can come with big savings. You will probably have to putty old nail holes but the wood is old, fully dried and stable. Just a thought.

FYI, you need to watch out for some woods like white oak. It gets really hard when it gets old. To use nails you may have to pre-drill holes for the nails otherwise all you'll do is bend your finish nails and swear a lot. Just tell them you want to test nailing before buying.
We have a lot of those stores here. When I've gone there to look, it's usually more than going to HD. Never heard of George's but I'll try and see. We also have a Habitat for Humanity store right by work that sells stuff like this, but they usually won't have enough that matches.

Old Sep 27, 2019 | 10:50 PM
  #11899  
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Sooooo.... I have a question for you guys. My neighbors trees are invading my property. Suckers all over in my lawn (they are starting to die down now that it is fall though) and their weeping willow has exposed roots in my front lawn.

Have any of you had experience getting rid of the roots? I really want to take my sawzall out there and cut this **** out of the roots in my front lawn. BUT, I also don't want the damn thing blowing over on my lawn. There are 4 or 5 spots where the root is a good 4 or 5 inches in diameter. If I cut this son-of-a-gun up, am I promoting a tree tipping over on my lawn?
Old Sep 28, 2019 | 12:24 AM
  #11900  
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Originally Posted by white89gt
Sooooo.... I have a question for you guys. My neighbors trees are invading my property. Suckers all over in my lawn (they are starting to die down now that it is fall though) and their weeping willow has exposed roots in my front lawn.

Have any of you had experience getting rid of the roots? I really want to take my sawzall out there and cut this **** out of the roots in my front lawn. BUT, I also don't want the damn thing blowing over on my lawn. There are 4 or 5 spots where the root is a good 4 or 5 inches in diameter. If I cut this son-of-a-gun up, am I promoting a tree tipping over on my lawn?
Jprevat probably has something to say about this but weeping willows suck. Roots are shallow and spread out about 3 times the height of the tree. The tree also has a reputation for destroying septic tanks, underground pipes and foundations. If anything, including your house is anywhere within 3 times the tree height it's probably going to cause problems in the future if it hasn't already. The roots can be killed with a hole saw and Epsom salt which will dehydrate the roots and shouldn't kill the tree.

The roots usually match the canopy of the tree. If most of the roots are in your neighbors yard as seen my matching the canopy shape you should be fine to kill them. Weeping willows have a lot of roots and the tree should be fine unless half of it's roots are in your yard.

Have you talked to the neighbor about this? Any root damage you are experiencing should be his problem also. How far from the house or any underground systems is the tree for your neighbor? Weeping willows are great along river banks and lake shores but that's about it. They like water and will find it if any is around, even in pipes.



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