Thinking
River, check out https://www.hackster.io/ for lots of good info and projects you can create. Lots of really cool stuff on there.
Speaking of Skylar... he seems to be breeding. What an influx of Skylar's we've had lately. This guy with the cylinder one misfire and the loose timing chain. Does he not realize that chain is used for 4 cylinders? Not just cylinder one? I doubt he ever did a compression test, like AK told him to.... And then the transmission Seafoam guy. Holy nuts! Drive me nuts, LOL. I just want to ask them "if you know so much, why are you here?".
Speaking of Skylar... he seems to be breeding. What an influx of Skylar's we've had lately. This guy with the cylinder one misfire and the loose timing chain. Does he not realize that chain is used for 4 cylinders? Not just cylinder one? I doubt he ever did a compression test, like AK told him to.... And then the transmission Seafoam guy. Holy nuts! Drive me nuts, LOL. I just want to ask them "if you know so much, why are you here?".
Last edited by River1; Sep 27, 2019 at 10:17 PM.
2100, glad it worked out. I was so impressed with mine I tell anyone who will listen. When I use mine and it just hovers above the surface, I can't help but be reminded of Luke Skywalker's speeder hovering around.
Last edited by Buck0; Sep 27, 2019 at 07:15 PM.
What type of base. The cheapest is finger joint or pine. If painting you can use finger joint. But yea, some of those big box stores don't even try to keep their wood straight...they get all bendy and can't do much with it.
FYI, you need to watch out for some woods like white oak. It gets really hard when it gets old. To use nails you may have to pre-drill holes for the nails otherwise all you'll do is bend your finish nails and swear a lot. Just tell them you want to test nailing before buying.
I just did a quick internet search for architectural salvage yards in SLC and you have some choices and a place called "Georges" comes up a lot. Can't speak for SLC but in this area the architectural salvage places are usually good for about 50% off from new. Of course some stuff like the old, heavy, solid doors or fire places can cost a lot more than new but flat work, windows, cabinets, etc. can come with big savings. You will probably have to putty old nail holes but the wood is old, fully dried and stable. Just a thought.
FYI, you need to watch out for some woods like white oak. It gets really hard when it gets old. To use nails you may have to pre-drill holes for the nails otherwise all you'll do is bend your finish nails and swear a lot. Just tell them you want to test nailing before buying.
FYI, you need to watch out for some woods like white oak. It gets really hard when it gets old. To use nails you may have to pre-drill holes for the nails otherwise all you'll do is bend your finish nails and swear a lot. Just tell them you want to test nailing before buying.
Sooooo.... I have a question for you guys. My neighbors trees are invading my property. Suckers all over in my lawn (they are starting to die down now that it is fall though) and their weeping willow has exposed roots in my front lawn.
Have any of you had experience getting rid of the roots? I really want to take my sawzall out there and cut this **** out of the roots in my front lawn. BUT, I also don't want the damn thing blowing over on my lawn. There are 4 or 5 spots where the root is a good 4 or 5 inches in diameter. If I cut this son-of-a-gun up, am I promoting a tree tipping over on my lawn?
Have any of you had experience getting rid of the roots? I really want to take my sawzall out there and cut this **** out of the roots in my front lawn. BUT, I also don't want the damn thing blowing over on my lawn. There are 4 or 5 spots where the root is a good 4 or 5 inches in diameter. If I cut this son-of-a-gun up, am I promoting a tree tipping over on my lawn?
Sooooo.... I have a question for you guys. My neighbors trees are invading my property. Suckers all over in my lawn (they are starting to die down now that it is fall though) and their weeping willow has exposed roots in my front lawn.
Have any of you had experience getting rid of the roots? I really want to take my sawzall out there and cut this **** out of the roots in my front lawn. BUT, I also don't want the damn thing blowing over on my lawn. There are 4 or 5 spots where the root is a good 4 or 5 inches in diameter. If I cut this son-of-a-gun up, am I promoting a tree tipping over on my lawn?
Have any of you had experience getting rid of the roots? I really want to take my sawzall out there and cut this **** out of the roots in my front lawn. BUT, I also don't want the damn thing blowing over on my lawn. There are 4 or 5 spots where the root is a good 4 or 5 inches in diameter. If I cut this son-of-a-gun up, am I promoting a tree tipping over on my lawn?
The roots usually match the canopy of the tree. If most of the roots are in your neighbors yard as seen my matching the canopy shape you should be fine to kill them. Weeping willows have a lot of roots and the tree should be fine unless half of it's roots are in your yard.
Have you talked to the neighbor about this? Any root damage you are experiencing should be his problem also. How far from the house or any underground systems is the tree for your neighbor? Weeping willows are great along river banks and lake shores but that's about it. They like water and will find it if any is around, even in pipes.










