Coil packs can take water if you treat them plus the wires w/silicon. It's COP system coils that freak the nasty when they get wet.

If you make up some rubber inner wheel well extensions, the engine bay will stay a lot cleaner. The only time my engine has seen water is when my 4 year nephew got me with the hose while I was camped out under the hood ..that little rascal.

 

This one slipped my mind. It was around this model year when I first heard of it. The wire harness, bulk connectors/ignition harness by the firewall above the AC accumulator. Over time the harness would drop and come in contact with the Accumulator. The wires/harness would chaff enough to break through the foil protective layer that protects the ignition harness from magnetic disturbances from the accumulator creating ignition havoc.

I recall one user having such problem in route to where he pulled off the road, grabbed the harness pulling as far from the accumulator as he could and the problem ceased immediately. The engine smoothed right out.

So check the harness around the top of the accumulator for harness damage or the harness proximity in relation to the accumulator. Try zip tying the harness further away if an as possibly.

Also prior work in the engine compartment could have pushed the harness close enough to the AC to become problematic.

 

Just tried zip tieing the harness away from the ac and it, unfortunately, didn't help. Fuel pressure at key on engine off shoots to 50 then drops to around 40-45 and holds. Key on engine on (as on as it can be) sits around 45.

 

Oh, and I have not replaced the o2 sensors.

 

Yea before replacing them and with your DTC's, I'd check to make sure any of the O2 wires aren't crossed. Like the heater wires with PCM signal or PCM ground wires. If that's the case, you'll smoke new O2's shortly after the battery is reconnected and engine is fired up.

Just run a continuity test on the engine harness side for upstream. While testing one at a time with the beeper, touch the other pins with you probe or clip to confirm there's no contact between the others.

 

Are you talking about using a multimeter? I don't have one.

 

Yes, what did I say lol. Ahh, it's what I didn't say.

They are good to have on hand and VERY cheap. The good thing about those, you buy a real cheapy at a lot of places. As long as you get a digital, they are accurate. They just don't take much abuse. But yea and they usually have the functions you need most. Beeper, Volts, Continuity...come in handy.

 

I'll be buying one soon. I just put the new battery in it, almost 200 more cca than the old one, starts better but no effect on the problem. Can you explain step by step how to run the tests you're telling me to try? Once I get the multimeter, I'll lets you know how it all looks.

 

Did you reset the PCM after finding and fixing the vacuum leak?

 

Disconnecting the battery for awhile will reset it, right?