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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

HELP! Major engine problems!

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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 08:32 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Forddude86
I only lightly blew before starting. Light blow and light suck to listen for movement. While starting and running, I only sucked. If I didn't know what we were talking about, this all sounds very bad...lol
Okay, so you did suck at idle and no change ?
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 09:40 PM
  #52  
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Sucked at idle and no change other than it will now chug idle instead of just dieing like before. Since I did the suck test, it will now chug idle with the vacuum hose hooked up as well.
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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 02:55 AM
  #53  
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Alright, loosen the EGR valve at the throttle body, 2 bolts. Separate the throttle body and EGR from each other just a little while sliding a metal plate over the throttle body port totally blocking pathway. Tighten the bolts back up snug, start the vehicle. How does it run now?
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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 08:12 AM
  #54  
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You can cut a piece of an aluminum can, beer or soda cans are perfect.
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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 10:28 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by jprevat
You can cut a piece of an aluminum can, beer or soda cans are perfect.
Right, anything like that. Have a credit card that you want to get rid of ? Ahh, it would need a trim and probably melt...unless it was a gold card. See what I did there, knauk knauk knuak.

Oh brother lol.

Btw , that ^^^ was just a joke.

But yea, you get the idea Forddude86. Just something to temporarily block it off. Your confirming the valve isn't stuck or hanging, I almost sure that it is. Recalling that your DPFE hose was blocked. That same foreign matter is keeping the valve from closing. If that's the case the engine will run absolutely like trash and anything you've replaced so far, won't matter.
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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 10:35 AM
  #56  
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Also, leave everything else connected. Don't leave any lines off. The intake has always been on when testing correct ?

Another thing, disconnect the battery before doing any work. ONLY reconnect the battery just before you start it...Positive FIRST!

Give it shot.
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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 05:42 PM
  #57  
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Any tips on getting the bolts out if they are seized? I'm afraid to put a cheater bar on for fear of breaking the bolts.
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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 06:05 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Forddude86
Any tips on getting the bolts out if they are seized? I'm afraid to put a cheater bar on for fear of breaking the bolts.
Yea don't do that, they will break. I need to see which engine you have again since they are all different at the EGR and I can't remember everybody lol.

Best way is heat, you don't need much, just enough lol. A little propane or MAPP will work great, but yes, it's almost a must or your chances.....

A little cordless impact works best for getting them out in one piece. But with heat, a 10mm wrench or 1/4" drive ratchet should work as well. Just watch the saucer thing on top and wires floating around.
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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 06:15 PM
  #59  
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Ok. Just gave it a try. Had some plasic a bit thicker than a credit card. No change.... :-(
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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 07:20 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Forddude86
Ok. Just gave it a try. Had some plasic a bit thicker than a credit card. No change.... :-(
Bummer! Well, tell me how you did it, - just so I can confirm we were on the right page. I hope there's no offense, just want to make sure
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