Engine Builders talk.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 10,354
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From: Virginia
260 rwhp max, using factory parts on the engine w/LT headers. That with a npi 5four block w/PI heads and intake. That combination will get the mostess out of a LTH install. It's the most I've seen on the dyno adding 30 hp 35 torque at the rear wheels. That's part of the 260 rwhp.
If you want to figure parasitic loss or gain for FWHP add or subtract about 35% for these trucks.
Adding in cams, you got me...haven't seen those differences on the dyno. Just what I posted above. If you want more than 260, - you might as well charge it.
A coyote w/doner would be a great find if reasonably priced. With a doner, it's just about cake. The icing goes on as soon as you hit the go pedal, and comes back off temporarily after leaving the transmission in the dust.
If you want to figure parasitic loss or gain for FWHP add or subtract about 35% for these trucks.
Adding in cams, you got me...haven't seen those differences on the dyno. Just what I posted above. If you want more than 260, - you might as well charge it.
A coyote w/doner would be a great find if reasonably priced. With a doner, it's just about cake. The icing goes on as soon as you hit the go pedal, and comes back off temporarily after leaving the transmission in the dust.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 14,978
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From: Northern Virginia
Originally Posted by 2thousand5.4
Honestly I may just upgrad trucks. When you look at the power potential of a coyote or ecoboost it doesn't make sense to build a 2v
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 14,978
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From: Northern Virginia
Originally Posted by 2thousand5.4
I am considering a coyote swap. By the time everything is said and done it will only be a grand or so more than a 2v. Only thing I can't figure out Is the trans, I know I can use my 4r70 after I get it built, but what is gonna control it? I got the 4x4, AC, and gauges all figured out. For the gauges I'm just gonna make a fiberglass cluster with a live wire and GPS mounted in it so I have a speedo and a bunch of gauges then if I need more I can run A-pillers. I also don't know how to make the odometer work and the power steering since everything with a coyote has electric steering I think
and I'm 95% sure there's trans controllers for the 4r70
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Virginia
Yeah they make a bracket for the PS I forgot who makes it. Performance automatic or something like that makes a trans controller too, I just don't know if I need a speedo for it. I gotta look into that, the speedo could be an issue. Thanks same company also makes paddle shifters for the controller so worse case if I need a speedo for it to get the shift points right and I absolutely can't figure out how to add a speedo I can just run the paddles
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 14,978
Likes: 143
From: Northern Virginia
Originally Posted by 2thousand5.4
Yeah they make a bracket for the PS I forgot who makes it. Performance automatic or something like that makes a trans controller too, I just don't know if I need a speedo for it. I gotta look into that, the speedo could be an issue. Thanks same company also makes paddle shifters for the controller so worse case if I need a speedo for it to get the shift points right and I absolutely can't figure out how to add a speedo I can just run the paddles
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 10,354
Likes: 105
From: Virginia
If I don't need the speedo for the trans controller I'm just gonna get a nice GPS and a live wire then get rid of the factory cluster and make a cluster with the GPS and live wire mounted in it. Probably would make the new one out of fiberglass and paint it tan to Match the dash. Would like to figure out how to get the odometer to work to. Also I'm not sure about the air bags. Is that it's own system or when I replace the PCM and I gonna loose them
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 14,978
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From: Northern Virginia
Originally Posted by 2thousand5.4
If I don't need the speedo for the trans controller I'm just gonna get a nice GPS and a live wire then get rid of the factory cluster and make a cluster with the GPS and live wire mounted in it. Probably would make the new one out of fiberglass and paint it tan to Match the dash. Would like to figure out how to get the odometer to work to. Also I'm not sure about the air bags. Is that it's own system or when I replace the PCM and I gonna loose them
I think you could get a digital trip meter you could mount with the gauges to use as an odometer, but I'm not sure.
I'm sure there's a way to make the airbag system work as it should with the new system.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
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Likes: 105
From: Virginia
Engine Builders talk.
If I was doing it I'd probably run autometer gauges and figure out a way to get all the signals needed to run them correctly.
I think you could get a digital trip meter you could mount with the gauges to use as an odometer, but I'm not sure.
I'm sure there's a way to make the airbag system work as it should with the new system.
I think you could get a digital trip meter you could mount with the gauges to use as an odometer, but I'm not sure.
I'm sure there's a way to make the airbag system work as it should with the new system.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 14,978
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From: Northern Virginia
Originally Posted by 2thousand5.4
The live wire should have any gauge I would need except maybe trans temp since the trans would be separate from the pcm, and fuel level obviously. Not sure if the live wire will display AFRs or has a sensor hook up for wide band so I would run those 3 gauges on the A-piller. The trip odometer could work if I can find an aftermarket one
fuel level could be taken care of by figuring out what type of float setup our tanks have, if it's a resistance based setup then just find the normal operating resistance range and get a gauge that matches the resistance range. that's how my jeeps fuel level is read by resistance, but I'm not sure if ford used that same style to read fuel level or not.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 10,354
Likes: 105
From: Virginia
trans temp you could probably just throw a temp sensor in the trans if there's not one already, but I doubt there is currently. all you need is to find a place to screw the sensor in then run wires to it and you're good.
fuel level could be taken care of by figuring out what type of float setup our tanks have, if it's a resistance based setup then just find the normal operating resistance range and get a gauge that matches the resistance range. that's how my jeeps fuel level is read by resistance, but I'm not sure if ford used that same style to read fuel level or not.
fuel level could be taken care of by figuring out what type of float setup our tanks have, if it's a resistance based setup then just find the normal operating resistance range and get a gauge that matches the resistance range. that's how my jeeps fuel level is read by resistance, but I'm not sure if ford used that same style to read fuel level or not.