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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

Engine Builders talk.

Old 01-13-2015, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jprevat
Is that fuse the one under the hood?
Right now, I don't think so, I think it's under the dash.

BUT,- The 98's have a MAXI in the PDB in the engine compartment that ties ignition to GEM from what I recall. Sometimes they can blow. Not totally sure on the repercussions, -I'll have a looksee.

Last edited by Jbrew; 01-13-2015 at 11:32 PM.
Old 01-13-2015, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jbrew

Right now, I don't think so, I think it's under the dash.
I had a fuse go out on me in the box under the hood and the truck would stall on me until I put it in 4lo and limped it home down the dirt road so I could diagnose it.
Old 01-13-2015, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jprevat
I had a fuse go out on me in the box under the hood and the truck would stall on me until I put it in 4lo and limped it home down the dirt road so I could diagnose it.
I believe that may be the fuse I'm referring to in my last post. I must have edited while you were writing your post. 4WD/GEM. Not sure on anything yet tho.
Old 01-13-2015, 11:48 PM
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Worse case scenario would be frying/hurting the PCM. Since I was welding on both engine and frame recently. But I'm 99% sure all ties were disconnected before doing so. However,I didn't pull the fuses..perhaps I should have. I'll check it out tomorrow.
Old 01-14-2015, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Jbrew

I believe that may be the fuse I'm referring to in my last post. I must have edited while you were writing your post. 4WD/GEM. Not sure on anything yet tho.
Lol yeh I must have missed that
Old 01-14-2015, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
Went to move the truck out of the garage and it went into "limp mode" or "fail safe mode" , can't recall which it is but #4, #5,#6 and #8 read misfire.

Haven't had a a chance to look at it yet, from what I recall, I either blew fuse #25/35, -or the trans is too low...iduno, the over drive switch isn't blinking, BUT the airbag light remains illuminate. Haven't looked for trans codes. So, those are all just guesses thus far. It may be all of the above lol.

EDIT: Oh, both doors are removed, but I'm not sure that has anything to do with it. This vehicle doesn't share the PATS like the 99 150's or 98 Nav's and Expy's, so no blinking lights or gauge sweeps.

I think that's all I noticed or came to mind troubleshooting for about 10 minutes lol.

Guess I'll look around on the net,since I have a little time; - perhaps my owners for the fuse directory, - to confirm the correct fuse to pull for now.
[MENTION=113]Jbrew[/MENTION] have you checked your coolant level? My old 97 would go into limp mode when it was low. Worth checking out anyways.
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Old 01-14-2015, 12:10 PM
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For those who have experience in gear swaps, what's best way to go about the front diff? Drop it completely or leave it in. Also would you take the time to rebuild it? Making a parts list for a 4:10 swap coming up and debating on whether to do just gears or go all out and rebuild the front/rear and replace the junk LS with an auburn diff. A friend will also be doing the work mainly.
Old 01-14-2015, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by charliedyal
@Jbrew have you checked your coolant level? My old 97 would go into limp mode when it was low. Worth checking out anyways.
Come to think of it, I think it is, but forgot about it lol. Thanks!
Old 01-14-2015, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jprevat
Lol yeh I must have missed that
No I don't think you missed, - we thought about at the same time. I edited my post while you were writing yours..or something like that lol.
Old 01-14-2015, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jferg92
For those who have experience in gear swaps, what's best way to go about the front diff? Drop it completely or leave it in. Also would you take the time to rebuild it? Making a parts list for a 4:10 swap coming up and debating on whether to do just gears or go all out and rebuild the front/rear and replace the junk LS with an auburn diff. A friend will also be doing the work mainly.
Go ahead and change the shift fork while you're at it. I would remove it and set it on stands. Not that much more work and much easier to get to everything. Get the master install kit that comes with all new bearings, races, seals, crush collar, etc. If you're that far into it may as well do it right.

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