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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

Engine Builders talk.

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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 05:42 PM
  #2731  
Jackedup00's Avatar
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Originally Posted by jferg92

I had a set of Dynatech LTs bought and then a set of Bassani equal lengths. Both got sold out from under me. Both for like $10 or $20 more than I had paypal'd them
That sucks,I hate people like that. Once I make a deal with you its done unless someone offers me enough to pocket what I want and buy you a new set.
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 06:06 PM
  #2732  
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Originally Posted by Z7What
OEM for exhaust manifolds too!!!

Wayne
I just used percys dead soft with locking bolts... never a leak or problem.
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 06:25 PM
  #2733  
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98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
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Originally Posted by Jackedup00
My brother in law was saying run oem gaskets with longtubes,didn't sound right to me.
It's not, you run the supplied header gaskets.

No gasket will work if you don't know how to torque them down.. From the center out.
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 06:28 PM
  #2734  
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Although jbrew is right, when installing headers you may not be able to fit a torque wrench in there and get a solid grip on the bolt. Its a very tight squeeze.
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 06:31 PM
  #2735  
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98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
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Originally Posted by fordmotorsport
I just used percys dead soft with locking bolts... never a leak or problem.
You're a genius if that worked.

Soo, -what's that percy stuff?
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 06:38 PM
  #2736  
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Originally Posted by MyFX4Project
Although jbrew is right, when installing headers you may not be able to fit a torque wrench in there and get a solid grip on the bolt. Its a very tight squeeze.
Never torqued mine. Snugged them down nice and even. Used a combination of ratchet & socket, and a ratcheting wrench with the wheel wells removed. And most definitely [MENTION=113]Jbrew[/MENTION]. Inside out. So far, so good. No leaks or anything. Re - tightened after about 500 miles then 5000 miles.
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 06:41 PM
  #2737  
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Originally Posted by MyFX4Project
Although jbrew is right, when installing headers you may not be able to fit a torque wrench in there and get a solid grip on the bolt. Its a very tight squeeze.
Which is why I'm glad I'm doing it before the motor is dropped in lol.
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 06:52 PM
  #2738  
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Originally Posted by Jackedup00

Which is why I'm glad I'm doing it before the motor is dropped in lol.
Good luck with that... your gonna beat the hell out of them before you get everything lined up. Your better off setting the motor in first and sliding them in from the bottom with the front axle removed.
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 06:58 PM
  #2739  
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98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
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I seen some modify tools to tighten them up, like making a stubby wrench or grinding one down at the important part lol. I do it the old fashion way still. I use a couple OEM studs at each side (where you can get them in). Easier to set perfect that way. That matters because I use Perma Gold (w/copper) on both sides of the gasket. Header gaskets are a fairly thick type silicone material vrs double and triple OEM stainless gaskets.

No locking bolts here, never felt the need , but I hear they are a good way to go. I use those small headed header bolts. Easy to get onto, - only downfall, you have to re-torque for 3 -4 heat cycles before the headers sort of meld to the heads...then they hold torque.

Might be a little more work compared to other methods, BUT, it's sound. Other methods are chancy IMO, doesn't mean they're no good. If you have a leaker, it's a do-over lol.
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 07:21 PM
  #2740  
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Ive got one if not two leakers currently.

At least you 2v guys dont have to worry about finding headers. My 4v is gonna be a pain. I will have my obx headers for sale after the swap for anyone that might be interested.
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