Thx, I will post all my expenses this weekend, I do have one small prob but I have posted it on here,

 

Great job man...once you get the first one done, the next ones are easy...well on your way to becoming a guru

 

Hi guys
I didn't forget about you guys, just damm busy with work that I can't keep up.

So I have put on about 3400 km on truck and have not blink an eye, no codes and works perfect, except a couple little things. So this is the list of parts I have put in, wether it needed it or just because I was this far into it. So as most know I had a broken timing guide break and end up all over the place inside.

New phaser
Timimg chains
Chain adjusters
New guides
Then took off cams and needed to change out some lash adjusters all rollers good
New high pressure oil pump and pick up tube
New reman power steering pump, that I broke trying to hammer on pulley, so get tool lol
New oil pan plug,
1 New cam sensor that I broke not paying attention, so be careful
Made sure to clean everything really good and put all back together.
I also had an issue when I got back together running like crap and found a new spark plug that was bad, it was great to get back together and running great, the total cost in parts that I got online and local dealership and scrap yard on couple things was 873.45 Canadian and a **** load of hrs as it was my 1st time doing something like this. The one thing I highly recommend is pay attention from the very fist minute you decide to do this job, as I didn't take note and ended up costing me money and time. I thank every single person on here that posted me the knowledge of the do and don't and all great info that was posted. I also will do a new oil change again soon and watch all the videos lots before you start not after. Lol I only have a couple little issues that I need to research when I have the time,
1-I find truck runs a little rough at idle, low rpm and if I can get it up 50/75 rpm it will runs smooth, is this possible.
2- every once in a while I get a smell of bad fuel in cab, more often when truck is sitting there idling,
3- on long drives 2hrs or more the heater fan will be on full blast but no heat coming out, then when I pull over for 10 min or so it will start to get hot, so something freezes up, would it be because my AC might be low on r22 or what ever is in autos, lol

Well I hope I can help out others with what I learned or found, this is a great site and awesome people, take care everyone and merry Christmas happy New Years ��������

 

It may be your heaters blend door or simply low of coolant.

 

check the thermostat.......could be sticking open.


Usually low coolant = no heat at stop light but heat when you get driving again.


I'm thinking a blend door issue would be constant and not change with driving conditions......as they are electrical.


As for the idle some throttle bodies have an adj screw on the linkage


Glad to hear its back together and running good !


Merry Christmas & Happy New Year Also !

 

Did you torque them down ? could be fuel injector o-ring or fuel rail loose . Check your fuel rail pressure sensor to see if its leaking / loose .
Plugs should always be torqued with torque wrench . I use 25 pounds on mine . Usually shows up as poor gas mileage , gas evaporates as it hits hot engine .
Most of these trucks are fly by wire and don't have mechanical gas linkage ,computer keeps idle around 500 .

 

I will check fuel,plugs and with heat it's hot in town at all times, but when I hit Hwy speeds 110 for 2 hrs then no more heat, I heard that on defrost it will freeze and is why I think it way be the low AC , hmmmm thx

 

You can easily check your low side AC psi if you believe U need Some refrigerant

 

Well hello guys I am back and hope I can fix this problem. It has been a while since I had my last engine tear down, and now at 360000 km on the girl and ran like a sweetheart for another 100k and now getting code p0022, yes I know. So I want to get oil pressure check out before anything as I did a complete timing rebuild and went with a high pressure oil pump, then will look into vct in bank 2. These were also change when I did a crap load of work. So what's best way to get oil pressure tested and what else can I look into....thx and great site like always.
Darren

 

Man, you rack up some miles on that thing.

Given total mileage, there could be an oil pressure issue. No harm in checking and I absolutely LOVE the warm and fuzzy feeling I get from my aftermarket gauge. But honestly, I do not immediately think that's the problem unless there are other indicating symptoms.

P0022 Code is never _good_, and it would be especially disconcerting after a timing job done because of JUST SUCH CODES.

But there can be simpler explanation. CONSIDER THIS: Timing codes are 'sticky'. If the condition exists for a mere 5 seconds (the time it takes to 'set' the DTC) - and then goes away, the CEL will STILL remain on for at least two and maybe more drive cycles. We _ALL_ hate the damn CEL staring us in the face so much, we want to run clear it as soon as possible. That deprives us of a small, but useful, tidbit of diagnostic information.

It is enlightening to consider the ABSOLUTE cause of timing codes. (If the CAMshaft actual position, as determined by the CPS, is more than 5 camshaft degrees off FROM the position commanded by the PCM, for more than 5 seconds --- BINGO, code is set.

Five degrees is not very much, and five seconds is not very long.

Consider physical ways a cam can be 'over retarded'. The 5.4 does not employ cam true advance - only 'Retard'. So 'over retarded' can only mean the cam _HAS RETARDED_, but is failing to return to its base (no-retard) position promptly enough when commanded. The VCT solenoid must 'CLOSE' to route oil flow/pressure into the 'advance' chambers of the Phasers when NO-retard is commanded. "IF" the solenoid is sticky or failed to 'CLOSE' _TIMELY_ , (or if the screen is clogged with debris), (or oil pressure is inadequate to physically move the phaser toward _BASE_ & locked position), the phaser would remain in its 'retarded' position TOO long. Thus - would be over retarded with respect to the PCM's commanded position. In that event, after five seconds a P0012 or P0022 code would be tripped as appropriate.

Another scenario that 'could' result in over-retarded code. If the spring loaded "locking pin" inside the Phaser 'fails' to capture the phaser at base position upon engine shutdown, on subsequent startup, valve spring drag on cam rotation could cause the cam to 'retard' for a few seconds before cranking oil pressure comes up enough to 'push' the cam forward to base. This would be a more disturbing cause - but COULD POTENTIALLY happen intermittently. And PCM is commanding ZERO degrees retard, so any retard represents an 'over-retarded' condition.

I am not saying ANY of this is good. But not resetting codes for a few drive cycles, can provide a little additional data about how serious, or HARD, the condition is without having to monitor live data. Also, if you have or have access to Torque Pro, you can monitor all OBDII parameters underlying those timing codes. Gauge descriptions and setups for Torque Pro are posted here: https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-r...4/#post5133357

Hope this helps and hope it is one of the simpler issues.