Engine Desludge
11-20-2013, 06:32 PM
#1
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Engine Desludge
2004 Ford F150 Lariat-5.4 Triton-4x4 with 120,000 miles. Just had to replace the timing chains, cam phasers, tensioners, guides, VCT solenoids, etc.etc.. 35psi oil pressure now on idle. $2500.00 in repairs..
Not happy about the "BUILT FORD TOUGH" slogan..especially since I have always done regular oil changes at the Ford dealership with Motorcraft oil and Motorcraft filters.. Anyway, the master technician said the engine did have some sludge buildup, not severe, but of some concern. After reading on engine sludge, I am thinking about a fresh oil change again, and adding "BG MOA" oil treatment or possibly Marvel Mystery Oil, run it 1,000 miles, change it again, and repeat the same oil change with additive, run it another 1,000 miles and repeat a third time to try to clear up some of the sludge wherever it may be if possible. Does this sound like it would be somewhat effective in cleaning out some sludge since this BG MOA is suppose to help this issue, or is their a better approach? Just trying to get another 50,000 miles out of this "BUILT FORD TOUGH" engine if possible.. Any suggestions??
Thanks
Kim
Not happy about the "BUILT FORD TOUGH" slogan..especially since I have always done regular oil changes at the Ford dealership with Motorcraft oil and Motorcraft filters.. Anyway, the master technician said the engine did have some sludge buildup, not severe, but of some concern. After reading on engine sludge, I am thinking about a fresh oil change again, and adding "BG MOA" oil treatment or possibly Marvel Mystery Oil, run it 1,000 miles, change it again, and repeat the same oil change with additive, run it another 1,000 miles and repeat a third time to try to clear up some of the sludge wherever it may be if possible. Does this sound like it would be somewhat effective in cleaning out some sludge since this BG MOA is suppose to help this issue, or is their a better approach? Just trying to get another 50,000 miles out of this "BUILT FORD TOUGH" engine if possible.. Any suggestions??
Thanks
Kim
11-20-2013, 10:23 PM
#3
Some tips to clean up an engine.
Run synthetic oils
My choices are usually mobil 1 5/30, mobil 1 0w40, Pennzoil Ultra 5/30, and Pennzoil Platinum 5/30. I like to change brands every few oil changes because each oil has a different additive package that combats sludge differently.
Its a good idea to do a few short oil change intervals with syns to clean up and then stick to 5k ocis to keep it clean. (Oil is cheap at walmart!)
Additives
The only additves I use and trust are marvel mystery oil and Kano labs Kreen. They WORK and they are safe. Just follow the instructions. I have put about 30k miles on mine with additives in the oil. (It had a sludge and varnish problem when I got it.) I like to use MMO every year. I add 1 pint to 6 1/2 qts of oil. And run it 3000 miles. Don't use 5/20 with it because it thins the oil some.
Additives not to put in oil
Quick flushes like gummout, sea foam, or b12. They you can't run them long enough to do any good. And don't waist money on Auto Rx. Its expensive and it just doesn't work. Believe me.....
Stick with quality filters like motorcraft, purolator, and bosch.
Ok so here's what I would do.
I assume your truck holds 7 qts like mine. Go to walmart and get two gallons of rotella T6 5/40 and a qt of mmo. Run six qts T6 and one qt MMO until the oil gets dark. Change oil and run synthetics for short intevals until its cleaned up. You can also add a pint of marvel for the last 1000 miles of a 5k oci to speed things along as well. And go ahead and try different oils. Like I said they all fight slugde differently. For example mobil 1 5/30 has a lot of magnesium (detergent) and then Mobil 1 0/40 has a lot of calcium (detergent) and different base stocks, Pennsoil Ultra is really geared for cleaning as well. Sludge and varnish don't form over night and they won't go away quickly either.
Another very important detail. Make sure the PCV system is flowing well. Replace the PCV if you can, or if its built in the valve cover ljke mine was, pull the valve cover and clean the heck out of it with carb cleaner.
Run synthetic oils
My choices are usually mobil 1 5/30, mobil 1 0w40, Pennzoil Ultra 5/30, and Pennzoil Platinum 5/30. I like to change brands every few oil changes because each oil has a different additive package that combats sludge differently.
Its a good idea to do a few short oil change intervals with syns to clean up and then stick to 5k ocis to keep it clean. (Oil is cheap at walmart!)
Additives
The only additves I use and trust are marvel mystery oil and Kano labs Kreen. They WORK and they are safe. Just follow the instructions. I have put about 30k miles on mine with additives in the oil. (It had a sludge and varnish problem when I got it.) I like to use MMO every year. I add 1 pint to 6 1/2 qts of oil. And run it 3000 miles. Don't use 5/20 with it because it thins the oil some.
Additives not to put in oil
Quick flushes like gummout, sea foam, or b12. They you can't run them long enough to do any good. And don't waist money on Auto Rx. Its expensive and it just doesn't work. Believe me.....
Stick with quality filters like motorcraft, purolator, and bosch.
Ok so here's what I would do.
I assume your truck holds 7 qts like mine. Go to walmart and get two gallons of rotella T6 5/40 and a qt of mmo. Run six qts T6 and one qt MMO until the oil gets dark. Change oil and run synthetics for short intevals until its cleaned up. You can also add a pint of marvel for the last 1000 miles of a 5k oci to speed things along as well. And go ahead and try different oils. Like I said they all fight slugde differently. For example mobil 1 5/30 has a lot of magnesium (detergent) and then Mobil 1 0/40 has a lot of calcium (detergent) and different base stocks, Pennsoil Ultra is really geared for cleaning as well. Sludge and varnish don't form over night and they won't go away quickly either.
Another very important detail. Make sure the PCV system is flowing well. Replace the PCV if you can, or if its built in the valve cover ljke mine was, pull the valve cover and clean the heck out of it with carb cleaner.
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11-21-2013, 12:22 AM
#4
Or just change UR oil and filter more often.
11-21-2013, 01:40 AM
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Desludge
Thanks for the tips and information.. I plan on starting this new oil change and treatment today... I got to make this engine last another couple of years anyway.. Thanks again..
11-21-2013, 02:43 AM
#6
Senior Member
First, do not use any product that contains alcohol, mineral spirits or kerosene in it. Products that contain alcohol, mineral spirits or kerosene are usually called "flushes" and will harm your engine. They will thin your oil and then direct you to run the engine for prolonged periods of time. Alcohol, mineral spirits and kerosene based products will also dry up your engine seals and cause them to leak. So, stay away from those products. I recommend using an engine cleaner that contains Ethylene Glycol Monobutyl. It's a safe solvent that safely dissolves soft sludge and varnish.
Second, (IMO) you should change your oil more frequently. I recommend every 3k miles (I know people will strongly disagree with this BUT its extremely hard for sludge and varnish to build up if you are constantly keeping clean, fresh oil in your engine).
If you do end up changing your oil every 3k miles then it would be best to run an engine cleaner in your engine every 9k miles (doesn't hurt to do it every oil change like I do but it's not necessary). However, if you do choose longer drain intervals, then I'd recommend an engine cleaner if you exceed 4,500 miles between oil changes.
If you follow this maintenance regiment, you will have no problem getting an additional 50K "Built Ford Tough" miles from your truck.
Second, (IMO) you should change your oil more frequently. I recommend every 3k miles (I know people will strongly disagree with this BUT its extremely hard for sludge and varnish to build up if you are constantly keeping clean, fresh oil in your engine).
If you do end up changing your oil every 3k miles then it would be best to run an engine cleaner in your engine every 9k miles (doesn't hurt to do it every oil change like I do but it's not necessary). However, if you do choose longer drain intervals, then I'd recommend an engine cleaner if you exceed 4,500 miles between oil changes.
If you follow this maintenance regiment, you will have no problem getting an additional 50K "Built Ford Tough" miles from your truck.
11-21-2013, 06:03 AM
#7
Check out bobistheoilguy.com for more info on motor oils and sludge clean up.
Here's a link to some virgin oil analyses to help u choose oils. The site also has a lot of info on other oils to. Check it out.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013P...sallfinal.html
Calcium, magnesium, and sodium are detergents. Zinc, phosphorus, boron and moly are antiwear additives. TBN is total base number of additives to resist acids and extend life of oil. NOACK is the rate an oil evaporates when cooked, lower is better.
Viscosity index is an oils ability to flow across a range of temperatures ao higher is better. (Just so u know what ur looking at)
Last edited by jamesyarbrough; 11-21-2013 at 06:21 AM.
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11-21-2013, 06:09 AM
#8
That doesn't always work if your not using a good oil for cleaning or if there is a PCV system problem. Conventional oils like Motorcraft, although very good oils, suck at sludge clean up compared to synthetics like Mobil 1 because they only have about half the detergents.
Last edited by jamesyarbrough; 11-21-2013 at 06:13 AM.
11-21-2013, 09:56 AM
#9
That Nasty carbon sludge crud. If U have a problem it is probably either on top of the motor under cover or behind the front cover. In both cases U ask for a lot of grief breaking it loose. The normal filtration system is best used normally and often enough.
11-21-2013, 10:09 AM
#10
Senior Member
