Engine Desludge
Problem is going to the dealership, the whole point of the dealership is to sell and profit, so they tell u what u want to hear. They wont do the proper pmcs your vehicle needs because they want ur behicle tonbreakdown and get another one....
James and Tiger are both right... u can be fine with conventional and stick to 3000 miles religiously and be fine for older said vehicles... Only reason why Fords arent Synthetic required oils is because of their government contracts.... However unless its a toyota, i would listen to what James is saying, its sound advice... full synthetic is way to go, I wouldnt go past 5k miles on full synthetic, and just stick to the pmcs service schedule on your owners manual, and thats taking care of most things...
You can't go many months regardless of mileage . We see engines in real cold climates sludging up like cake frosting . Canada especially . You start in the morning at Ten degrees F and run it up to 200 f going 5 to 8 miles then it sits overnight condensing moisture in the carboned up oil . This cycle goes on all winter and you think wow its too cold and I have only got 2 or 3 k miles on oil change . Surprise this engine can't take it .
Oil system runs hydraulic cam adjustment using dirty engine oil running thru small passages with filter screens . You have to get it out of there and use good syn oil rated for your cold climate '. I live in fl and it started on me but I got talked into extended intervals and poor filters .
I now use only MC filters with good anti-drain back valve , I have a melling 360 oil pump and I use mmo 1 quart per crankcase . Every other time I do an engine flush . I use full syn and don't go over 5k mi . Carry spare oil and don't let it get low .
Dump it or be prepared for a big engine job . This engine burns oil be prepared to lose 1 or 2 quarts per 5k . Reman runs 7k so don't cry about dumping oil change costing 30 bucks in materials each 5k .
I had broken guides and 1 roller thrown to the side on extended oil change. Get it out of there even if its purple holy oil . 4 months is enough .
Oil system runs hydraulic cam adjustment using dirty engine oil running thru small passages with filter screens . You have to get it out of there and use good syn oil rated for your cold climate '. I live in fl and it started on me but I got talked into extended intervals and poor filters .
I now use only MC filters with good anti-drain back valve , I have a melling 360 oil pump and I use mmo 1 quart per crankcase . Every other time I do an engine flush . I use full syn and don't go over 5k mi . Carry spare oil and don't let it get low .
Dump it or be prepared for a big engine job . This engine burns oil be prepared to lose 1 or 2 quarts per 5k . Reman runs 7k so don't cry about dumping oil change costing 30 bucks in materials each 5k .
I had broken guides and 1 roller thrown to the side on extended oil change. Get it out of there even if its purple holy oil . 4 months is enough .
Without wanting to re-hash, replace a quart of oil with Marvel, run for 1000 miles and drain, then repeat. Do this a few times, then keep a quart of MMO in the engine for a couple of full-interval changes. You don't however, want to break up too much sludge too fast and clog the oil pump pick-up, or you'll be out another engine. With the valve-covers were off, I would have hit the heads with the cams out with a toothbrush and gasoline to clean them up, let drain into the pan and out the drain plug. Use a Motorcraft filter, and change oil every 3k with Motorcraft oil, or 5k with a quality full-synthetic. My '04 has 149k and runs fine, but has had 3k mile OCI using only Ford oil/filter since day 1. Towing/hauling 6k lbs every weekend. I do plan on doing the chains in a few weeks, for no other reason than I want to inspect everything, and if I'm tearing it that far apart, I'm not going to seal up 150k mile consumable parts, and I will be upgrading to the Melling oil pump.
FYI, "Built Ford Tough" is only a marketing campaign, not a design philosophy.
FYI, "Built Ford Tough" is only a marketing campaign, not a design philosophy.
Last edited by dukedkt442; Oct 23, 2018 at 08:02 PM.
I must be on borrowed time, especially reading about how many engines are taking a dump in the 120,000 mile range. I have an 06 5.4 L with 307,000 miles, still all factory original. I've never done any desludge additives. I started out with Castrol full synthetic and about 130,000 miles ago switched to Mobile 1 both 5W20 and changed every 5,000 miles.
If there was a lot of sludge in the engine the oil wasn’t changed/ maintained enough. That or it wasn’t run much. Not necessarily OPs fault, Fords conventional interval is too long, and sometimes dealers don’t do what you pay them for. Also these synthetic oil gimmicks about running them 10k aren’t good either, oil gets too dirty at that point.
Last edited by ModularFord; Oct 23, 2018 at 11:16 PM.
I'll get in on the Zombie Thread....
Marvel's is good, run it with a 10w-30 (or 5w-40) Diesel oil. The detergent additive packages on that stuff is amazing and it will keep lots of stuff in suspension until it's time to change.
Mine went so black I couldn't see the cross-hatch on the dipstick at 2,000 miles. At 1,000 the oil still looked clean and new.
Marvel's is good, run it with a 10w-30 (or 5w-40) Diesel oil. The detergent additive packages on that stuff is amazing and it will keep lots of stuff in suspension until it's time to change.
Mine went so black I couldn't see the cross-hatch on the dipstick at 2,000 miles. At 1,000 the oil still looked clean and new.
Pretty funny. Woke Bacon joined the forum for the sole purpose of "woke"ing a 5 year old thread, to complain about dealerships. From his cell phone. Six posts later somebody with four total posts is promoting Seafoam.







